Hi, I have been playing F6 for several months and realized just how errored the physics are. In my track tuned RX7 with everything handling upgraded and tuned to 6.0 and the engine only have 319HP, its pretty quick. But when it comes to turns, the car doesn’t oversteer, it doesn’t understeer. It simply is late to respond. I ease into the brakes and the car slows, I move the stick and it took the car a full 1-2 seconds to actually turn to the direction I intended, it’s a real pain especially when idiots in Lobbies don’t know how to brake and turn properly on certain tracks. I thought by now updates would’ve been pushed to fix these things since people keep complaining about it. Its a real problem.
What class is this tuned for? I would say you need to increase you caster. You’ll have to redo you camber after.
Its tuned for A class and my caster is 6.0. The camber is at -2.0 for front and -1.5 for the rear. 0.2 toe for front and -0.2 toe for the rear.
Start caster at 3.5 and work your way up. Might find that 4s are better.
Your toe looks ok but maybe drop the rear to -0.1 or 0.
Camber might be low. Really depends on how the car felt prior to tuning. If it was really responsive, you don’t need it. If it wasn’t you need more negative camber. Negative camber up to -3.8 works.
-3.5/-3 or -3.0/-2.5 might do the trick.
It’s also possible your front springs settings are too stiff and/or your rear tire width is so wide that it grips too much in the rear mid corner and forces the front end to plow.
Or everything is perfect and you need a roll cage.
Or you have some understeer producing roll bars settings.
Lol.
As well as tune settings, the delay could be attributed to your controller’s dead zone settings as well. You may want to check those out.
My deadzones are either 0 or 100 for steering. The car maybe just sucks for that specific track.
Your assists can also be causing the car to steer more slowly. If you are using a controller and you have steering set to normal it will slow the turning rate of the front wheels to help you make corrections more easily. If you set the assist to simulation steering it will increase the lock to lock rate making the car much twitcher. But beware that making corrections are much more difficult and the car will spin around on you without much warning.
Also TCS and STM can make cars feel sluggish.
But if none of these are your issue or you are already not using these assists then it might just be too much grip in your build. The best way to get a car to turn in quickly is to get the front end to “dive” and the rear end to swing out a little. You will need some toe adjustments (not much) to the front end and caster adjustments. Lighten up your sway bars too to allow for some oversteer. In RWD cars having some slip in the rear end will help you keep the nose pointed at the apex for longer than any FWD or AWD tune will allow. You will need to have a decent amount of throttle control though. Try driving some of the muscle cars I have built for D class with the assists set up I mentioned above. They will teach you throttle control and how to slide around corners.
Maybe your car turning 2 seconds after you intend it to is the reason people keep crashing into you?
Nah, I turn slightly before the turn.
What you said was “I move the stick and it took the car a full 1-2 seconds to actually turn to the direction I intended”. My point is that if your car is doing that, you have no business taking it anywhere near public lobbies until you’ve figured out why.
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^^^sounds reasonable^^^
What you describe is not a problem I’ve heard anyone else mention. Therefore it’s not the game, the problem is either you, your hardware or some settings you’re using. Upgrading the car to 6.0 is only the theoretical handling score. You need to tune the car to get it to perform the way you want it to.
The car is tuned and it performs perfect when it starts turning. I move the steering wheel slightly before the turn, the car simply is late to respond. Once the car gets turning it does just fine.
Understeer
Just tune the car for a little oversteer and you should be fine.
Also this game punishes locked brakes so just watch a replay of two to check you aren’t smoking the front tires under braking and turn in. If you are dial it out. The RX7 makes a for a decent car although I prefer it in B Class.
Could it also be a bump/rebound adjustment. Different settings affect turn in response - can be set for wide turns or tight turns, or somewhere in between, but not neccesarily both.
Or are the tires too wide? or too soft?
Either that or he’s talking about an actual delay between moving the stick and the wheels beginning to turn. I’ve been noticing that being a thing more and more in Forza lately that the inputs are sluggish. The car reacts as you’d expect, it just is delayed. Compared to the response time in other games I play such as P.Cars, or Dirt Rally it is noticeably very sluggish even with “sim” steering. Personally this has been turning me away from Forza lately, however I do still play plenty enough to notice a difference in input responsiveness. I don’t notice it so much with a wheel, but with a controller it’s a bit frustrating to try an evasive maneuver only for the input to be behind. I attribute this to those hidden assists for controllers, as the brakes and throttle react just fine. If this is the problem the OP is getting at, there’s no real fix for it that I know of unfortunately. If there IS a fix I’d be happy to know it myself lol. I guess it’s just not that bad if Forza is the majority of a person’s racing game time weekly, they’d be pretty used to it.
Holy crap, i typed too much lol.
For what it’s worth, standard xbox one controllers don’t hold up well with forza. I have to replace mine every 6 months due to the mechanism keeping the thumbstick in place within the controller breaking. When it breaks you can feel and hear the thumbstick grinding and popping. If you notice it getting harder to turn right, it may be time for a new controller.
It’s amazing how much better my cars feel after getting a new controller. Lol.
I must be lucky because I’ve never had to replace any controllers, for Xbox One or the 360. If anything Dirt Rally beats on controllers more than anything. On the 360 where I have a wheel, I couldn’t play the Dirt games on it because it felt like I was beating my wheel up every time.
-k
Agreed, we got 2 brand new controllers when we got Wifey her XBox, it’s great, very crisp. And the foam stopper in the right trigger is there again (I played battlefield/OP. Flashpoint a LOT with mine and I generally switch my rifles to semi-auto so I wear out that trigger stopper/pad thingy tapping so fast lol). Sadly it helped me notice the input sluggishness I’d mentioned before even more pronounced. I am able to be a lot more stable in P.Cars though with a brand new controller haha.
I had that controller thing with the 360, and it does feel good with a new controller - all of the spring mechanisms feel tighter.
With the One, I have a Day One controller and can’t tell anything is different. I did buy a 70s Camaro in Horizon 3 yesterday and the car felt floaty and not very agile, like the caster was all the way down. But that was a horrible build 700HP is too much in C class LOL
Well, I preordered the One and I haven’t changed the controllers since. I’ve got about 500+ hours on FM5 and FH2 but about 200 on FM6 and like 100 on FH3 and I don’t really play anything else apart from GTA which I got for Christmas. The thumbstick is a bit worn but its holding up relatively well and I don’t really see any issue with mine. I have two but I only really used one so I still basically have a relatively fresh controller if this one gets too bad. Thats 4 Years worth of playing!