Now that I finally got some sleep I’ll share some of the things I learned. The first is that I really like Road America. East favors Power and West favors grip so when you put them together you end up with a well-balanced car. There are lots of different turns and elevation changes to flush out the car. Patiently waiting to see how well it worked.
‘65 Shelby Daytona: 2,238 lb/475 Hp - I’m happy with the way this turned out. Krawler’s is on rails but I tend to de-rail a lot and that made it slow for me. I spent a lot of time trying to get 835 Hp to work in this car and in that process settled on very different camper settings that let the car keep turning at full throttle. Rear is low and actually goes positive in the turns – weird. Mine is like running on hard clay and has a more gradual edge that lets me be sloppy and fast. At Sebring Club I found a setup more like Krawler’s worked better but since SCH appears to have excellent throttle control I went with a tune in between that rotated better and was more “Loose” Road America than “Hook-up” Sebring. Someone had to get a tune unmatched for their track and I’M BETTING that YOU SirChickenHeart will make it work! It was amazing what an extra -0.2 deg of camber on the rear wheels did. Although I’m easily 2 sec faster in my car, I actually like Krawler’s tune better and will not be surprised when it comes out on top. Mine still gets upset on the quick switch backs of Sebring and YAS and as much as I tried it still randomly bounces the rear tire over the large YAS rumple strips. I need to extract a still photo of the two wheel 45 deg angle of bank run through the second to last turn at YAS! I rolled it more than once before I raised the ride height. Somehow my build came out 15 lb lighter, some but not all came from the race trans. I did attempt to tune it, gears 4/6 set for Road America with 3/5 tweaked for Sebring. 1st was set for Sebring and YAS but I’m thinking 2nd actually works well so I probably could have gained a few extra horses by closing up the gears. With 5 & 6 closer together than the others it sometimes works better to shift into 6th before 8,000 rpm instead of at or after. I contemplated putting slightly taller gears in the diffs anticipating faster lap times out of our “STIGs” but elected to leave it alone. Really hoping it’s not geared to short!
’92 Escort RS Cosworth: 2382 lb/497 Hp - I really thought this was going to be the car. Once Krawler threw his in, I actually painted it “Retro Shelby Daytona” anticipating that I would submit it instead of the Daytona. I had two builds one A692 with the 1.6L rally engine and one at A700 with a naturally aspirated 3.9L. A700 was all of ONE messily pound heavier and had 5 more Hp. The power was, however, right up next to the rev limiter. The rally build could afford all the extra bits like the race trans so with some close ratios and a flatter curve the average Hp was actually higher on the A692 build and it usually came out on top by a few tenths. I got the gears so close that I was actually shifting at 5200 rpm. If you waited until 5500 rpm you ended up in front of the peak that looks like it is around 4800. I found that if you let it pull from 4000 out of the turns and rev over 5500 going in you could avoid a few 4-5-4-3-4 shifts and just keep it in 4th. Faster with a whole lot less fuss. 5-4-5 worked better than 5-6-5-4-3-4-5 also. You didn’t have the over rev option with the 3.9L and needed the extra up/down shifts. Unlike the X-Bow you can actually read 5200 on the dash tachometer so I didn’t need telemetry up to race. Sebring Club with the short shifted 1.6L was literally a hand full with turn/break/shift/throttle/turn all going at the same time. The more spread out gears and ever increasing power curve of the 3.9L could be faster at Sebring. The problem was losing front grip at the end of a turn and drifting wide, most noticeable going around the Carousel. When you got too fast and started drifting wide the reaction to add more steering appeared to cause the front to lose even more grip. If you actually took it back out it would grip again, unfortunately you were now too wide. I noticed sitting at the starting line that when you turned the wheel full left/right negative camber would increase but right near the end it would actually start decreasing. I don’t remember seeing this before so I may keep working on this car. Showing up with A692 has to be worth something! I really liked this car but trusting that it was still competitive after giving the field an 8 PI advantage was hard to believe. Oh look, T-Joe just submitted one - looking forward to testing it out.
‘13 KTM X-Bow: 2,021 lb/ 435 Hp - First try was with my top 100 capable X-Bow from Prague. All I had to do was add the AWD and put on some Drag tiers to keep it in class. Dropping the pressure to 27 psi (seems to work with drag tires) and suddenly with AWD you could drive it with TCS OFF! I was even able to turn the rear wing from full to min down force. It would build with stock tires but that needed the smallest restriction plate and lost power. The small increase lateral g was easily outweighed by the phenomenal braking and strait line grip of the drag tires. It could probably be even faster if I worked on it some more but it already dominates A class and frankly I didn’t want it to be fast. It has no problem decelerating/accelerating and as long as you get off both the brake and throttle it will roll around the corners. Ultimately it takes 10 laps to readjust to unique way you need to drive it and 10 laps to unlearn and drive anything else so I chose to avoid it for the competition. But OH that first lap – easily within 3 seconds of lap 2 and possibly 5 seconds faster on lap 1 than anything else I drove – Lobby? The problem was that the tires were fading halfway through lap 2, you got a 75% wear caution on lap 5 and it was completely un-drivable when the tires hit 100% wear somewhere on lap 6. Laps 3-5 were consistent but you really needed two 5 lap warm-up sets followed by a 2 lap qualifying run. A single 5 lap set just wasn’t going to post a great time. If I keep telling myself that I may actually believe it! lol
'91 GMC Syclone – 3154 lb / 825 Hp - I wanted this to work and tried the stock turbo, 5.7 turbo, and 5.9 NASCAR engines but ultimately it was too heavy with no way to add the grip it needs for A class. I wasted too much time on this one. The 2,937 lb/578 Hp 5.7L build with full grip may, however, be competitive with the proper driver. Hauling 3150 lb down from 180 mph was too much momentum to stop with just the front tires once ALL of it shifted forward, even with drag compound. With 3.8 lb/Hp I kept thinking it would work better than the Daytona at 4.7 lb/Hp or the IROC at 4.5 lb/Hp but ultimately it was stopping and a lateral g less of than 1.0 at speed that did it in.
Others I tried – most ran with the pack and were capable but the Daytona and Escort bubbled up to the top.
’66 Ford GT 40 MK II – I had a decent A class tune and with my B class torque motor I thought this was going to be better than it was. Not bad just not the Daytona. This was actually my first thought when I saw this post.
‘61 Jaguar E-Type - This has potential but the Daytona got fast first and I set it aside.
’02 Corvette ZO6 – This was the most disappointing slowest car I built. I can’t wait to see what Spoiled Jamie came up with. I like Vette’s and have all of them but only my C class C1 is competitive. Now that my entry is in I need to get back to that Road America monthly challenge with the C1.
’70 Corvette ZR-1 – This is one of my favorite cars to drive both RD and AWD but I just can’t make it fast enough. Now that I have this great list of followed tuners it might be time to go tune shopping!
’90 Camaro IROC-Z – My B600 Firebird GTA is fast at Road America East but it’s DLC so I thought I’d give the Camaro a try. Tried both 3,733 lb / 825 Hp and 3011 lb/583 Hp builds but I couldn’t find that magic grip that TN Eagle found in the budget comp. Hauling 3,733 lb down from 180+ MPH at Road America was challenging!
’02 Camaro SS – This was a contender but I was using the suspension from gtFOOTw’s open source tune so it was more of a “set the bar” build. It was my build but not my tune.
’77 Firebird Trans Am – my B class HOTLANTA tune pumped up with AWD and more power. Not bad but this car is just always slightly off the pace, moving on. I never got to the Audi, Subaru, or Honda’s I wanted to try. I was itching to try the Civic CRX.
I had SkiMizer43 helping with the testing and he caught the bug and built up two cars that I threw a quick tune on.
13’ Audi RS7 Sports Back – Too heavy
BMW M1 – Ran out of time, it was time to pick one and refine it!
A bunch of people found my test Escort tune that I shared for SkiMizer and it might have actually been my most popular/highest rated tune before I took it down to share the final product. Go Figure! Did I get it right??? Was the Daytona really better???
Let the racing begin,
Crash