Hey guys
Just wondering what your wheel settings are for drifting, I seem to be having a lot of trouble drifting with my wheel. I’ve been messing around a lot with the settings but I can’t seem to dial it in… using my controller drifting is easy as cake, but on the wheel it seems like I can hardly pull of any continuous drifts.
Any tips or wheel settings would be much appreciated, doesn’t matter if its not a G920…
try these settings, after the patch yesterday the wheel feels much better
Steering deadzone inside- 0 or 1 if you are getting wheel shake still
Steering deadzone outside - 100
Steering Linearity - 50
Acceleration inside - 0
acceleration outside - 100
Deceleration inside - 0
Deceleration outside - 100
Clutch inside - 0
Clutch outside - 100
E-Brake has been switch to the right bumper
Inside - 10
Outside - 100
Vibration Scale - 20
Force Feedback Scale - 45
Wheel Rotation Angle - 900
don’t do clutch 0-100. that’s not how clutches work. 30-70 is a more realistic setting. you can adjust that to better match the clutch on the car you’re used to drive (but then again you’re probably american and possibly not driving age on top of that, in which case i just say use 30-70, it’s the best setting for clutch dead zone)
also there are new settings below wheel rotation angle. mine is translated to my language but it should be something like
“understeer feedback” - probably allows you to choose how much lighter the wheel gets when the front tires lose grip
“Minimum force feedback” - adjusts the scale of the feedback towards the center of the wheel. you can make it so you have full feedback at the center position now, which is good
“Wheel dampening scale” - it should dampen the feedback effects, it’s what i was hoping for, but i can’t tell what it does. needs more fiddling
“central spring scale” - how earger the wheel is to get back to the central position. technically you can lower it so the wheel doesn’t overshoot as much
i’m trying to find a setting where i have a strong centering force, strong “grip” feedback but less spiky effects. all this time when i go over a kerb or over rails, my wheel pulls with full force to the left. i hate that SO MUCH. i can’t prevent it from steering about 30 degrees briefly before i recenter it. it’s SO ANNOYING. completely unsettles the car sometimes. i was hoping dampening would take care of that kind of spiky response while keeping the other kinds of feedback reasonably strong. but like i said, still nothing
and lower the force feed back and vibration about 10 more points if it still feels rugged.
I’ll give it a try, how do you manage with 900 DOR that seems like a lot and the wheel does not turn that easily =P
Personaly, 900 degrees is great for authenticity but for drifting, since you’re jerking from left to right constantly, i have it set to 270 or 300 with coutersteer feedback at 50 and it works great!
PLEASE PLEASE do not listen to this guy above me. 270 degrees means when you turn your wheel sideways just about 90 degrees like you would to take a corner his car is at full lock. in the drift world that is called cheating. because you can literally one hand the hardest drift course in the world that way. if you want rookie settings all you should worrie about is center spring scale set high absolutly no wheel damping. set the force feedback to about 70-80 and your rotation angle minimum should be 670+ degrees 900 if your pro 1080 if you want realism i used to drift on 270 when i first bought my wheel and its no different than a controller. you never have to take your hands from the wheel to wrap it around, i prefer 850 ish, youll still have to wrap the wheel around almost a full rotation to drift. just like the guys in real life, if you cant handle that take it down to 690. and lower the FFB but heavens no dont go to 270. i could drink coffie and drift at 270 that is not drifting. if your in a rally car choose 540 degree as that is actual rally spec , any good drifter will be able to call out a guy using 270 degrees. you look like your using a controller from the outside no one can counter as fast as a 270 degree. is physically impossible, and it takes all the accomplishment out of drifting when your dont even have to learn how to unwrap the wheel from a hard drift. that moment when your wheel is upside down your about to come out of the apex and think, how the hell am i going to get strait again, then you throttle out and slowly unwind it. on 270 you just ( with 2 hands) streer right. drift steer left, then strait…done. all with 2 hands on the wheel exactly where you started with them. it will take some practice to get fast enough to 900 degree drift. but thats the beauty of it. SIM drifting on an actual sim has made me much better in real life at drifting. if all i did was 270 degree rotation drifts, in real life you would just be swerving right to left in the street looking like your dodging pot holes. nothing would happen
The damper setting adds artificial drag to the ffb to make the wheel feel heavier, if your drifting I would set this to 0
Yeah there are much more settings to mess with now… I was spending a bunch of time messing around last night.
One thing I noticed, is that after you apply the settings you have to unplug and re-plug your wheel for the settings to apply. Not sure if there is an easier way to do it then that, but thats what I’ve noticed.
I tried Danks wheel settings was not a fan 
On the G920, your decel outer deadzone probably should come back to between 50 and 70 if your brake pedal is still super stiff.
First thing I did was remove the rubber stopper from the brake pedal assembly lol. No more brake issues.
Okay so I’m noticing that the FFB is working much better now…however the FFB randomly turns off after maybe like an hour of gameplay or so not sure if a loading screen triggers it or what. Anyways I just resolve this buy unplugging and replugging in the wheel, kinda annoying but at least we have FFB now.