In past games there’s been an at or about BASE SETTING for camber for each class… like 3.0 and 2.5 for S class or higher…
Have you all noticed what camber settings are a pretty good all around starting point for each of the classes?
I used to go way over -1. Like 2.7/2.3. Now that l’ve been using telemetry more, l’ve realized this is way too much. I’ve found…for offroad tunes at least, that my front being around -1 gives a great contact patch. Perfect tire temperatures, and the screen before (tires/general) l flip between negative and positive camber any time l’m on uneven terrain. lmo that’s the two best indicators that you’re getting a good contact patch. That being said, l use math to get a proper spread between the two, taking the weight distribution into account. Bare with me. For a 60/40 split. Divide 60 by 40 and you get 1.5. This is my first step when tuning anything…getting my spread right. For a 60 front, l’ll run a -.9 front and -.6 rear. 60/40 is easy, just be aware, you don’t want any decimal points when figuring out your numbers. For example, a 56 front, l set at .7 and .9. If you divide 9 by 1.273 you get 7.069. 8 divided by 1.273 is 6.28. That .28 will be noticeable. So, 9 and 7 is much better than 6 and 8, because it’s theoretically going to be laying completely flat…or evenly flat anyway. If you want to go with higher camber, by all means, do so, but l highly advise doing this short math to make sure you’re as close as possible to a whole number. Those little fractions/decimals at the end can make a huge difference. Check the telemetry, too. I’m always within a couple of degrees in temperature between all four tires.
Some examples for common weight distribution:
60/40: -.6 rear, -.9 front
58/42: -.5 rear, -.7 front
56/44: -.7 rear, -.9 front
54/46: -.6 rear, -.7 front
Again, l used to run super high camber, but struggled with traction coming out of corners. Once l started checking my telemetry, l realized my contact patch was way outta whack. Also, my castor was way off, so my steering was hard to get back to center, and l ended up sideways pretty often when going airborne. I went from around 5.5 degrees to around 4, and noticed a considerable difference in control, and very little difference in turn-in angle/response.
This is all imo, but strongly backed up by telemetry. Good luck.
Like slid3show said, use telemetry and maybe a little bit of math. I usually don’t touch it in FH4 since tuning the suspension gives me enough grip.
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