Thanks bud
Can you give me just an example of 1 top ten tune that you have in A-Class or one that you know is out there and I’ll grab it tonight and see if I can make top 20 with it?
If the tunes are out there and they can’t really get much better then I’d probably go ahead and grab’em all! lol
I need to wrap my head around this. I think I’m downplaying the upgrade process. I’ve been using the same tired predictable system since FM2, which isn’t that different for each car. Then I test drive, tune, drive, tune, until I am certain the build is faulty, only then will I stop tuning and consider parts. Which is generally weight red. or tires.
Above ^^, that’s interesting stuff too, some things I have never considered. Looks like tonight I will have to pull this up in “Snap” and try a few things. No flywheel? Bombshell. LOL
Edit#2: One thing about tuning is that the chance to improve the tune is = to chances you’ve ruined it.
In regards to #2 if you make a change/s and screw something up you now know to go the other way with it. SAVE your tune before you make changes, and if your new changes work save before you make more changes.
+1 nothing worse then messing up a tune and not having it saved lol.
Be careful with some of the general information as I am not a confident tuner especially regarding Dampers and ARB’s as ARB’s are probably better for over/understeer and Dampers for rate of suspension travel. This is very much basic information and not the full picture, its all a working progress thing. There’s not a lot of advice going around that I can see on builds either so I’m gonna experiment by not tuning a thing and testing methodically from stock to build part by part, which parts will give me the best time… Then start tuning when I’m finished that!
I’ll get this done and I want it to be a Step by step but this really isn’t even what I would call much of a framework atm.
Thanks and I totally agree with ‘‘EDIT#2 lols’’
I don’t know how good of a driver you are but I will say this. I’m a 1% driver and I can get times inside inside the top 1,000. I have been gifted tunes in Forza 4 when racing in the TORA series by some very great tuners and gifted drivers. However I’m still just a top 1k driver. I play Forza a lot and yes I may find a few extra tenths or even a half second using their tunes but at the end of the day I just run out of skill. Just be realistic with your goals and practice and learn and practice some more. Now if your already a top 100 driver then hell good for you and go get’em!
My X-bow with drag tires is in my shared files for Sebring. My X-bow with race tires is in my shared files for other tracks. I was top 10 in both last week when I ran them and I think Zermatt and Lou ran #1’s in it. They could have tweaked it by now, I am not sure. Been playing FIFA and Battlefield a lot more than Forza.
No Goldie has a Caterham open sourced and Loco/Hyde have and R34 in the TM right now that are fast.
Below is a/my method of tuning, albeit in it’s infancy. There’s a lot of work to be done and I absolutely understand that there are different ways to tune and this may somehow contradict some peoples beliefs but I also understand that through the different ways that one can tune there must be parts of those/your methods where the line crosses over and you’re ultimately taking the same steps.
For someone who does not have a method it’s obvious that this is my main issue with tuning and I really feel as if this fact is where many people falldown in their own tuning endeavours. It is certainly where I do.
IMPO: A method with small imperfections that can be adjusted over time with better understanding is better than no method at all as it is then a starting point, a reference, and a guide to creating a tune. I personally have read the worm tuning guide about 3 times and I understand all of the described principles but I still find my self without a method. I must be stupid to not know how to tune by now :P…
…anyway I don’t so I’ve looked across a few threads picking up different nuggets of information and this is what I have so far. I don’t have to put out a poll or survey to know that what many people still want is something they can pick up and work through easily to achieve a tune that is at least better than the ones they are currently struggling to create.
Once in place I will personally use my method with the Worm guide/Fuerdogs Information/in-game advice/and the ECT cause and effect list!!!
REAL LIFE TUNING AS I GATHER IS MUCH MORE COMPLICATED THAN FORZA TUNING WHICH SHOULD MAKE THIS CONCEPT A PLAUSIBLE ONE
THIS IS NOT FINISHED BY ANY STRETCH OF THE IMAGINATION!!!
Here goes lol…
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YOUR TUNES SHOULD BE TRACK SPECIFIC
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RUN CARS STOCK FIRST ON THAT TRACK AND ASSESS WHAT YOU THINK NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED
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BUILD UP YOUR CAR AND RE-ASSESS WHAT NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED AND IF ORIGINAL PROBLEMS HAVE DISAPPEARED THEN MAKE THE CONNECTION WITH THE PARTS YOU HAVE ADDED TO YOUR BUILD. ADD ONE TUNING PART THEN RUN A FEW LAPS FOR THIS TO BE MOST EFFECTIVE
Build Tips
Use cams last
Superchargers are generally superior
Experiment with Engine swaps.
Larger front tires in a RWD car will NEVER make you Under-steer. You will always get more turn in and rotation.
Upgrading rim size is beneficial in quite a few cars
You need aero in most cases
Never use a clutch
Never use a flywheel
Tires
33 PSI When hot – Run 3-4 laps
220-230 degrees is a bench mark as well
Alignment
Inside of tires hotter than outside even by small amounts
Camber should be high above 2.0, sometimes double that
Springs
Generally set soft and compliment the weight distribution to give an even feel.
Dampers
Use for tweaking over/understeer and turn in ability
Aero
Use to benefit braking ability/turn in and handling oversteer
ARB’s
Use to tweak over/understeer
Braking
Find a pressure that slows you down well in conjunction with braking style.
I will enter in the Differential information posted by worm in the currently locked diff setting thread but I need to read more about that as I do pretty much everything else and then create several successful tunes using a set method lol.
When this is finished each piece of info will be credited by the person/people who I borrowed it from as well. Having said that it also inmportant that I take no credit at all for this as I am merely collection related information from stuff thats already out there and trying to present it in a method type form.
I need more basic uniform rules that we can all live by like to tires info with regard to each section and I’ll be re-reading and trying to come up with more.
Thanks
Sk3tChY
A ton of really interesting info here. Thanks guys! I must say I’m surprised by some of the suggestions. I am driving in the top 5% for many tracks in A, S, and R classes and top 1% for some, all with my own tunes (and a wheel) and no assists, except a braking line. I also don’t use aero.
One thing that really surprises me is the idea that build is 90% of the battle and 10% is tune. My approach to building has been quite crude: add parts for adjustability then drop engine parts to reduce power, and get back into class range, if necessary. Tires before power, as well. In short, the emphasis is on handling. The idea of adding one build part and doing laps confuses me. It’s pretty hard to imagine different air flow being much different than adding any other power affecting component. That is, unless you are really fine tuning gearing to match power and torque curves for specific corner/gear combinations. I definitely don’t get to that level of detail. So far, I haven’t even tuned much track specific stuff, although I know it would be necessary to get top 1000 capable performance.
This also surprised me a little - such high camber. Can you please explain what you meant by “Inside of tires hotter than outside even by small amounts”? Are you saying they should be as even as possible?
Thanks again all for the great info
[/quote]
This also surprised me a little - such high camber. Can you please explain what you meant by “Inside of tires hotter than outside even by small amounts”? Are you saying they should be as even as possible?
Thanks again all for the great info
[/quote]
On your tire heat screen under telemetry, you have three readings outside,inside,and center. Ideally when the temps across the tire are as even as possible you have a flat contact patch. Which means in terms of handling you have it dialed in.
You don’t want it even in FM5.
Slap negative 2.0-4.0 on the camber and the car will be better. Most of my cars are running numbers close or into the 3’s
Sounds like a nice little gem, although a bit counterintuitive. I will give it a go. Thanks!
I take it that’s for the front but how would you see the rear comparing to the high camber on the front?
Yep. That just gave me a very elusive 2 seconds at Spa without changing anything else. To heck with telemetry hehe
Yeah, ignoring the telemetry would drive some people nuts…insane if you will.
I do find it difficult to ignore. haha. it drives me even more insane looking at all the camber in the replays. so odd!! but I love the drive and the lap times. It’s improved all but Prague full for me, where I lost 0.7 seconds from my best. Not sure why yet. My cars are very well balanced and handle great. Lately I’m driving all MRs. I hate using leaderboard cars! The extra camber just made them a bit more sure footed - took away some of the floatiness so I can carry a lot more speed through corners. I’m only running 32psi hot on the tires, so I might up that a bit.
My goal is top 1% on all tracks, and to be able to beat Unbeatable drivatars in Free Play. I’m usually on the podium as it stands. Quite sure I will never be top 1000. It is completely incomprehensible to me that there are 20 seconds between me and the leaders on some tracks.
you can run the same -2.0 to -3.5 on the rear and still notice a huge difference in most rwd cars on the first lap havent tried this on awd yet
Correct me if I’m doing this wrong but you want the 10 deg. difference on the side of the car without the most cornering loads correct. Example if it’s a right turn biased track then you want the temperature split on the right hand side of the car?
You can pretty much disregard tire temp telemetry.
Set the pressure to run around 33/34 when hot and put a bunch of camber on it.
Example (S15 with 5.7L in C500)
Is this report screen in the game? If so, how did you capture it to an image file?