Is it even possible? I use the Bugatti circuit as my test track and my better cars that aren’t over 3000 lbs can run 1:46 at worst. But when I get my Mercedes or Alfa Romeo, I can barely get 1:48 at best. The top speed isn’t a problem obviously, but the brake time and acceleration through corners leaves much to be desired.
Note that I’m not using any leaderboard cars.
I don’t have any tips for Forza 6 yet;)
My tip would be to drop a few hundred pounds lol.
Sounds good lol. It’s just that I’ve always wondered how people managed to make the Cadillac CTS, Bentley Continental, and some other heavy sedans give me a run for my money in the races.
Aero, if not in the front and rear than just the rear. It works wonders
You must put on race brakes and then go into tuning, brake pressure and lower it to around 71% look at the breaking benchmark and it will tell you what pressure is best. Usually around 71% is the bestbut it varies with different cars.
Thanks for the tips. I never considered tuning Aero or the braking pressure. I always thought higher brake pressure was better so I always had 120% as my standard for all cars, and I never touched Aero before.
Do not run 71%. 120% is fine. I run 150% myself.
Also for the far majority of the tracks in A class you want to have front and rear aero, and set the sliders to max down force.
For brake Bias, you should set the Bias % from 48-55% the higher % the more your car can turn in during braking.
A lot of the heavy cars will run some good times. The Caddy, Holden HSV, both of those can run 1.43s on Bugatti
3000 Lbs is actually not that bad. The Aston DBS is around 2900-3000 and is a absolute monster. Some cars are hopeless tho.
Make sure you are using full weight reduction. That is the first upgrade you should do.
I think you’re right on the braking pressure. After looking at the benchmark, it appears that the braking distance is shorter in the 70-75% range, but gosh my cars have flown right off the track at times. Same thing with the Aero. I just look at the braking distance results on the benchmark and assume it’s the best option, and maybe i’ve been wrong the whole time. I’ll try max downforce and see how it goes.
Everything 40 just said I 100% agree with. The 3000 pound cars can run 43s around there if u take ur time on the build. Personally I think it’s more accel than grip so i actually use some of my long beach cars there. Point shoot and hold on at least for awd. Caddy with 5.5 or 5.6 handling does very well around there as well
Be a better driver
Which Mercedes and Alfa? I’m really eager to find out some of FM6’s roster.
Also, what are the leaderboard cars for FM6? Good to know in advance.
Because these are the FM6 boards.
Thread moved from FM6 to FM5
Ya the Benchmarks and the car ratings don’t really give an accurate account of how the cars will perform. Track times are the real indicator.
Honestly they need another benchmark that shows 80 to 140 and the 140 to 80 because 99% of the tracks are in that range and not 0 to 60 which is for drag racing. If u would like some pointers or some cars hit me up or the other guys in here and I’m sure u will get some very fast cars…
Wishlist idea but I will put it here… it would be nice to actually adjust my bench mark mph per track. One track i could set my benchmark at 60 to 120 and the next at 100 to 200 so i could actually see how my car performed over 100 instead of 0 to 100. Got off topic but i had to write it before I forgot
When upgrading a car for A class this is generally the formula I use for most cars:
Race Tire Compund
Tire Width
Rear Forza Aero
Race Suspension
Race Brakes
Race Anti Roll Bars
Sport Chassis Reinforcement
Sport or Race Weight Reduction/which one I use depends on how much PI I have to work with and whether or not the car needs more handling or more power. In most cases the car needs more handling.
If I have PI left to work with after doing the above I then throw on the engine upgrades. Usually do exhaust and intake first. If you have a couple PI left before getting to the top of the class then upgrade your driveline until you get the car to 700 PI. If you still have room for PI after that then go for the clutch upgrade. I only use flywheel upgrade if I’ve exhausted all other options and need to get to the PI to the top of the desired class.
That’s not completely wrong formula, but far from the best I’d say. Personally I go
Platform & handling → All race If that overshoots the PI I’m aiming for, I take weight reduction out as long as I’m under the PI I’m aiming for
Forza aero F/R + Differential
Tire width, Usually Max that out (+tire compound if handling below 5.0)
Add power until I’m 25PI short of my target PI
Short test, Do I need handling or power
Add handling/power depending on the test result.
Play around with small changes to handling / power
Usually ends up with the best result.