Will admit that I haven’t bothered with car racing games in past years…but I got an X1X recently that had Forza Motorsport 7 and have been playing for about a month now.
Started out on the Pro difficulty level today and I feel I’m doing absolutely brutally. Best result was 4th place…and have been sinking to 8th and 9th place during certain races.
Two points that are frustrating are
(A) A second or so before I’m about to turn a corner…the car just near grinds to a halt and slies down.
(B) Even on a straight or relatively straight stretch of track…the AI just seems to be a league of its own. At full speed and with pin precise handling z they just seem to be keeping a lead…and regardless of full speed in my part, they just seem nigh impossible to catch up with. I might catch up eventually…but it’s a drawn out pricess, can never pass them out by full speed and careful handling.
Would like to some tips. I haven’t played car races in a while and am back into Forza since October
I’m actually enjoining the game, but after upping to Pro…it’s like trying to race a bunch of Ferraris in a mini cooper…
The higher you set the difficulty the more the AI cheats. T10 can’t seem to make the AI better, so on higher difficulties the AI can break HP limits on the straights. Towards the end of the race this HP boost is deactivated, so usually at the end of the race you should make up a lot of time. If you struggle to catch them try to drive longer races, this will give you more laps without the AI using their boost. For example, on a 3 lap race the AI will cheat 2 laps, but on a 10 lap race they will only cheat 8 laps and so on. If you are driving with fuel consumption on, be aware that the AI needs to refuel way less than you do. I have driven races in which everyone had to refuel twice, yet the leader didn’t refuel once.
General tips, try to learn how to drive without, or with as few assists on as possible, they slow you down.
Rather than using the standard homologated tune the game applies to the car, download a couple of tunes and try them out.
The auto tunes (homologation) are most of the time bad, and shared tunes by other players will in most cases work much better.
A good way to get faster is to chase ghosts in the rivals section. There are different events going on at all times, with pre determined cars and tracks, but also class based time racing. The game stores a replay of every best lap achieved by a player and you can chase the ghosted car of a guy faster than you, learning where to brake and finding better driving lines.
On the first one, sounds like the super easy brake assist is turned on, might want to check your settings for it. Either turn it to ABS on if you want or ABS off if you want more of a challenge but you don’t want the super easy brakes.
Just keep practicing you get better over time, focus on the cleanest best laps, don’t focus too much on beating the AI that will come naturally. Personally I prefer to keep the difficulty level 1 notch lower but it’s a matter of preference. I recommend you at least not switch around cars too much, find one you like a lot in each division or class, stick to it for a little bit because every car has its little quirks and I noticed when I try out new vehicles it takes me a few races before I am able to play at my best with that car.
If you’re new to racing games, then there’s no shame in setting the difficulty to where you’re at as a player, and increasing it as you improve. And that should go for any game of any genre, frankly. Gamer culture seems to have this unhealthy obsession with skill, and bragging rights. But the fact is, we’re all at different places, and we all need to start somewhere. In a way motorsports is like golf, in that, yes, there are other players on the field, and there’s an element of competition. But at a certain level, your biggest competitor is yourself, and the challenge is to do better than yourself. shorter lap times, fewer strokes, and so forth. And the AI, or other drivers are just there to be a part of that. I’ve been playing for a couple years now, and I have the AI set to Above Average. And I can win fairly consistently, depending on where I start in the grid, or how many mistakes I make. I recently bumped up to Highly Skilled, and I’m getting slaughtered.
And with racing games, you’ve kindof got to accept your placement in a given race. Only a few laps in a 10 minute race doesn’t give you a lot of opportunities to work your way up the grid, and if you start near the back, the leaders will get way ahead of you by the time you make it to the middle. I know career mode has an emphasis on winning, and some Forzathon challenges require a win. But in freeplay, or online, you come to accept that whatever place you finish in is the place you finish in. 4th place against pro AI is fairly respectable in my books.
That being said, yes, the AI cheats. Sometimes they behave like they’re on rails, and sometimes they drive dirty. But at least they’re still more predictable than multiplayer. They’re programmed to finish in a certain time, and get in the way while doing it, and the challenge is to get around them and beat that time. And they’re also programmed to pick up bad habits from us, and boy, do they ever.
The trick to mastering the homologation system is to find which aspects of the car are not restricted to maximize. HP is limited but weight and torque are not. Torque is trickier to deal with because it doesn’t have a dedicated stat like HP does not generally if the blue line on the power graph is way higher than the green line (like the Jeep grand wagoneer) it will help the car accelerate faster.
Weight, on the other hand, is much easier to manipulate. The lightest car in the class will always have an edge over its competitors. I try to find the car that can have the best power to weight ratio while still meeting the homologation restrictions. I avoid most brake and handling upgrades because the tire compound is restricted usually to street or sport which does not allow for much grip improvements anyway.
If you can do an engine swap, you should. The 6.2l V8 fits in all the nostalgic drag racers and is lighter than most 70s big blocks by on average 200 pounds. So even if you lose 20hp you gain it back in weight savings plus the 6.2l behaves better at similar power outputs to the older engines. It’s unfortunate though that all your cars will sound the same.
Avoid camshaft upgrades! At all costs. Too many PI points for a small improvement and they really don’t give the car as big of a boost as they claim. Exhaust, displacement, forced induction conversions (I prefer the super chargers to turbos, more consistent output and lower PI cost) intake upgrades and weight reduction.
Also, in my opinion wider tires do not provide much advantages over narrower ones when the homologation restricts you to street or sport tires. They make the car turn in more slowly and take longer to lose grip, which is sometimes what you want on older RWD cars to keep the nose near the apex.
Building cars like this will help negate the extra power higher level drivatars are given. But you will need to be conscious that your car will need more care around corners.
First thing you should do is turn off all assists, and go manual w/ clutch. You may suck initially, but it’s the only way to be “good”.
Now some of the R Class Cars are faster with a manual, you have to kind of check leaderboards to see if that is the case. I’ve seen it on a couple of rare occasions.
I dunno about FIRST thing to do is turn everything off, I say ease into it. It takes time to put all the parts together.
Start with manual and get used to that.
Then throw in manual with clutch.
Mix in turning off TCS/STM in there somewhere (can still be useful on for some high power RWD cars) once you get comfortable.
They last thing I mastered was ABS off, seemed to take the longest to get confortable with.