If not, is there anyone out there able to help a girl out with this tuning business? I just can’t get the hang of it. I’m throwing everything and the kitchen sink at the cars and seeing what sticks.
At the moment in the Ghost League it’s currently A AWD cars, so I’ve done some converting to get a few RWD/FWD cars accepted in the league. However, in doing so it’s either decreased speed and breaking and the most important when racing in a league (IMO), handling and acceleration or… all of the aforementioned!
Now I’m trying to bring the cars back up to a reasonable level but I just cannot get the hang of the tuning element. It seems no matter what I do, it takes the cars back out of the A range and in to S.
Any advice from you Tuneheads out there would be fabulous!
If you can get a couple of races in the league lobbies then see if any of the front runners are using tunes made by someone else’s tune. Then click on their name and you should see a GET TUNE option. And get a few of them collected. Then go buy the car they used for this tune. Then go to the tuning screen and load this tune. It will tell you to install parts for a price go ahead and do that too. Then go back to try and tune the car you will be prompted to remove the setup go ahead and do that too.
After this go to the upgrade garage page then you can go through and see what parts were purchased for the tune you downloaded earlier and add them all and that brings up all of the P.I. to the level it was originally. So you can see what upgrades were added and what was not added.
Then of course this is only half the battle you still have to tune the car. I have used the Forza Tune 6 app for help with tuning you can get it on Android but, I am not sure about if it is on iTunes though. That should give you a good starting point.
Oh and if you are using a car with too high of a starting P.I. it will be hard to get the car set to AWD without giving up a lot of stuff related to handling and power. So try a car with a lower P.I. I like using the old Muscle Cars because they have a low starting P.I. and most of them have good starting power.
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There are over 10 (at least) tutorials between the FM5 & FM6 Tuners sites. Check the sticky on Worm’s guide, then, a search will give you the rest. For general tuning (not game specific) the FM5 section had some great ones which you should certainly check out.
As we all know, there are 3 very specific and important factors: (a) your driving skills, (b) Build and (c) tune.
there’s many guides that you can use, pick one that suits your driving skills with a good understanding of what does what and why, I personally do not recommend using a tuning calculator as they’re meant for the creators style plus you may not learn. Tuning takes a long time to develop plus you never stop learning, I recommend trying different builds (as many as possible) to get the best results 8f what you’re trying to achieve such as speed, handling, short tracks, Speed track etc, etc… good luck, many people here will help you.
I agree with W4RLOCK, tuning apps kinda help, but you don’t learn what you’re doing. Also they won’t help with the build. I’d certainly do as Kid said as well, check out some of the thread’s in the Tuners garage. Lots of info out there.
The biggest thing I would suggest is be patient. Take your time, nobody is gonna be a speed demon right away. After getting your build down, the PI you want, tuning is going to rely on how you drive, how you brake, how you take a turn. Those things all come with time behind the wheel, so to speak. Those tuning threads will help once you’ve figured out what your car is doing and how to adjust it to your driving.
And absolutely, there are lots of good folks out there that are happy to help out!
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After a 2nd read of your post, it appears your challenge might be getting the right build, then applying the tune. I agree with W4RLOCK’s sequence of (1) Driver, (2) Build, (3) Tune, yet, will assume your driving is X and will continue to only get better from there, and, if you post more specifics on your car/class/build along with any restrictions your league might have, I am sure you’ll get some good feedback.
Get the calculator. Its the easiest way to tune. Now that I use the calculator I can easily run top 50 times. The app tunes are based on a 3DOF model, and not the developers taste. Some self tuners call it sacrilidge but it works very very well and its only 2 bucks. Tell real racing teams to ditch their tuning computers and tune off “feel” and they will laugh in your face.
Top 50 is based more so off of skill then a calculator. I don’t approve of the use of calculators but if it helped the guy out that recommended it then good for him
Not saying it didn’t help, but it irks me when people come here claiming to get all these top times and then don’t say where they are. If he has made a top 50 tune with only the app, I’d download the tune and try it myself. I’m a pretty fast guy who drives my own tunes as well as other folks tunes. I just don’t think an app can replace the the feel of making the tiny adjustments that make a good tune into a great tune. I can put a car top 50 with no tune if the build is right.
LOL. To be honest I didn’t even read farther after he said “tuning calculator” lol. Not many people can get top 50 times with a calculator tune so he should look into tuning his own cars and see how much better he can make them and how much higher he can get on the boards.
In-case you don’t know, telemetry can be found by pressing up on the D-pad while driving, but do at least 3 laps to get everything up to temperature before you start tuning.
Tires:
Default Pressure 30/30 works just fine front and rear.
Gearing:
NEVER HIT THE REV LIMITER (except when power-shifting), always power-shift.
Set your final drive so you don’t hit the rev limiter on the longest straight of a track and set up the rest of the gears individually so that you don’t hit the limiter anywhere else.
Alignment:
Camber: Set this for even temperatures across your front and rear tires. A good starting point is -0.9/-0.7. If the inside of the tire is cooler than the outside, increase camber and if it’s hotter decrease it.
Toe: Avoid using any more than -/+0.3. I rarely use anything on the front, sometimes 0.1 for tracks like Nurburgring GP when cars never want to turn-in and never any negative toe on the front or positive on the rear. I often use up to -0.3 on the rear to keep the rear of the car stable through chicanes and if I can’t get it balanced through tuning the anti-roll bars.
Caster:Default 5.0 works fine
Anti-roll-bars: ALWAYS SET-UP SPRINGS BEFORE ANTI-ROLL-BARS
1/40 is maximum oversteer and 40/1 is maximum understeer. Start at 1/40 and if the car oversteers go to 10/30, then 20/20, 30/10, 40/1 to remove mid corner oversteer.
Springs:
Vehicle weight x .4 then x weight distribution front then rear.
Example: 2000lb vehicle. 52% weight distribution.
2000x.4=800 total spring weight
800x.52=416 front spring weight
800x.48=384 rear spring weight
Damping:
Basically, it’s impossible to get perfect so I just leave the rebound default and put the bump on 1.0/1.0 because it increases turn-in grip as it allows the car to roll/shift load quicker.
Aero:
I use maximum or minimum depending on the speed of the car. Tune your car with max aero, then minimize the aero and see if it’s still drivable. Minimum aero you can usually only get away with on the slow lower class cars.
Braking:
I usually start at 48% brake balance. If the car snap oversteers when applying the brakes then move it forward 2% at a time until the problem goes away. 48 to 52 is a safe range. I have used as much as 55% on some cars to remove brake on oversteer. Moving the brake bias more to the front reduces brake on oversteer. Brake pressure you should set as high as possible without ever locking up. This will shorten your braking distances substantially. A safe range would be 110 to 130.
Differential:
Higher accel = more throttle on oversteer. Lower decel = more throttle off oversteer. If you apply the throttle and your car oversteers lower you accel. If you release the throttle and your car oversteers increase the decel.
Safe settings
FWD 100/30
RWD 10/30
AWD 100/30 10/30 80
High torque power split makes an AWD car behave more like a RWD car.
Assists:
Use the clutch and always power-shift.
Don’t use ABS because it aids turn-in grip/stability.
Never use stability control because it’s basically automatic braking (for travelling sideways).
Only use traction control in high-powered-RWD cars (R1 and X class).
Use cosmetic damage because you will have more grip (no tire wear) and it will allow you to engine-brake more viciously.
Swap handbrake and clutch in the controller settings remapping clutch to the A button. Hit B/A with your thumb simultaneously to upshift and X/A with your thumb simultaneously to downshift.
Gearing:
NEVER HIT THE REV LIMITER (except when power-shifting), always power-shift.
Set your final drive so you don’t hit the rev limiter on the longest straight of a track and set up the rest of the gears individually so that you don’t hit the limiter anywhere else.
Race transmissions are almost useless in this game. Most of the time going with a lower PI transmission and more power or grip is the best way to go. Also you say “NEVER HIT THE REV LIMITER (except when power-shifting), always power-shift.” You may want to reword that since you tell them to only hit the rev limiter when power shifting but to always power shift. I think what he is trying to say is keep it floored while shifting unless your in a odd corner exit or accidently went to low in a gear.
Alignment:
Camber: Set this for even temperatures across your front and rear tires. A good starting point is -0.9/-0.7. If the inside of the tire is cooler than the outside, increase camber and if it’s hotter decrease it.
Toe: Avoid using any more than -/+0.3. I rarely use anything on the front, sometimes 0.1 for tracks like Nurburgring GP when cars never want to turn-in and never any negative toe on the front or positive on the rear. I often use up to -0.3 on the rear to keep the rear of the car stable through chicanes and if I can’t get it balanced through tuning the anti-roll bars.
Caster:Default 5.0 works fine
Camber I would always recommend to start at 2.0 front and 1.5 rear. Seems to be a lot more grip with the higher camber just not as high as forza 5.
Grip and momentum tracks you can run .2 to .4 toe front and rear to make the car hang thru the corners better. I have plenty of cars that run .2 front and rear that aren’t for grip tracks as well. Never negative on the front except maybe the MG Metro and negative rear helps cars with less grip
A good starting ARB is 15/20. Lower the front for more oversteer, raise the rear for more oversteer and vice versa
I don’t use a spring calculation at all its just feel. Softer in the front means better front grip while softer in the rear is better rear grip. Softer front = Oversteer/Stiffer front = Understeer. Rear softer = understeer/Stiffer rear = Oversteer.
Damping a good starting point is 9.0/9.0 for rebound and 4.0/4.0 bump. To little bump and curbs will destroy you. Same theory applies for the rebound and bump as the ARB and Springs. Softer front promotes oversteer while stiffer front promotes understeer, softer rear promotes understeer while stiffer rear promotes oversteer
Brakes are up to you but if you like to trail brake thru corners like I do 45% will do just fine. Some rear engine cars still trail brake ever at 55%. If the rear gets to loose while going into the corner go from 45% up to 48%. If the car just goes straight while on the brakes go from 45% to 42%. Tire width front vs rear will also be a factor in which percent you run so don’t get set on 1 braking setup.
I 100% agree with what he said on his differential settings.
Use what ever assists makes your feel comfortable. There are some that do more harm then good like auto brake, ABS and STM but if you need to use them at first so be it. Once you start to get the feel for the game I would look into turning these off asap. Some people get mad at others for running TCS but if you enjoy it please leave it on. I don’t like it very much so I very rarely run it but occasionally I will turn it on.
Just wanted to put my 2 cents in here. Some points I didn’t agree on with the above tuning tutorial but everybody makes their success their own way. I put mine in here as well to give you another way to do it. Everybody tunes a little different so see what works and run with it.
OK. lets make it simple!! start with brakes,springs, roll bars, and weight reduction. then put on ur tire compound. if u still have a bit of PI to fill add exhaust, or try a turbo, or super charger. for small incriments add rims, drive line, or fly wheel. then once u have ur PI to 700, do NOT change anything in tuning, drive the car “as is”!! then fix what issues u have with the car!! Remember small adjustments can have a big impact on ur car!! do NOT make big swings in numbers, dont go from 650lbs springs to 200lbs, do 25 lbs then drive it, then do 25 more. Patients grasshopper!! u may spend a lil’ time doing it, but u could reap big rewards from it!! good luck! feel free to msg me if u have questions.
