yac yes on a balanced car. you off set tire pressures to help under or over steer. its a way to transfer grip from one end to the other end of the car. pressure affects grip and under/over steer is when one car is griping way too much compared to the other. the energy has to be expended so it transfer the energy to the other end of the car. path of least resistance. this puts more energy on the tire than it can hold at and it starts to slide. thats also why lowering the front aero helped so much, it kept the energy from all being transferred to the rear. it allowed the front to expend its share of energy. if you watch the telemetry with the 4 grip circles you’ll see what i am talking about. with your old tune the front circles were huge and the rear disapeared. you want the front and back to stay as close to the same size as possible. that way one end of the car isn’t ready to get back on the gas before the other, get back on it before both ends are ready and you’ll lose it. you are making the front ready later and the rear ready sooner, since you cant go before both are ready you cant go before the rear is ready anyway. so over all you can get back on the gas sooner.
but if its comfortable for you leave it how it is. thats what you were going for, more control. different set ups for different driving styles. adapt the car to your style, its easier than trying to force your instincts to adapt to 400 different cars. your times should get better because you can drive relaxed now. is it still cooking the tires? if it saves you a pit stop that saves alot of time. racing is more about consistency than speed. the person with the fastest fast lap is often not the race winner, its the guy with the fastest slow lap. its about average lap time, not fastest lap, well unless its a 1 lap race or hotlapping.
Just for clarity, tuning doesn’t transfer energy from one end of the car to the other…at least as defined in physics. The only thing on a car that “builds” (useful) energy is the engine (kinetic energy from stored fuel) and the only thing on car that “retards” energy is the brakes (kinetic energy transferred to heat). The dampers also transfer kinetic energy from bumps in the road into heat, but that energy is not exactly useful.
What tuning actually does is optimize the grip balance between the front and rear of the car. The centrifugal force (inertia basically) generated by a car going around a turn has its sum value passing through the car’s center of gravity (which is why weight distribution is important). This force is opposed by the front and rear tires. The difference in the ability of the tires to generate force (slip angle) relative to each other is what causes oversteer or understeer effects. Stated simply, if the front of the car is able to generate more force than the rear of the car, the rear tires will start sliding, which causes a spin…or vice versa. Tuning either adds more grip to the rear of the car or takes grip away from the front of the car (in my example) to balance the grip (slip angle) between the front and rear of the car. That is why a car with better chassis balance (including track width, which I wish Forza listed easily), will ultimately out grip even a well tuned car with horrible chassis balance.
gettin’ a little deep? anyway, inspired me to take a look at what I’ve got - for comparisons sake: I removed both restrictors, installed the light(est) wheels (Dymag’s in my case), race drive line, stock tire size - resulted in 764/738, 2503lbs…
tire pressure: 29.0/28.5
gearbox: stock
alignment: camber: -0.8/-0.8 toe: 0.0/-0.1 caster: 2.2
anti-roll bars: 16.60/11.10
Springs: 556.5/835.0 ride height: 3.4/3.4 (min/stock?)
damping: rebound: 7.2/10.8 bump: 4.1/6.2
aero: 445/631 (a little off of the front, max rear)
braking: 55% front 100% force
differential: 36%/31%
(shrugs) It helps to know how the system in total works when tuning a car. It gets more complicated because real world physics are being interpreted through a video game, which has trade offs between accuracy, gameplay, processing power, etc. For instance, I see no evidence that the game calculate toe changes as the suspension compresses. Most street cars are designed with toe in for the rear suspension during compression for an understeer effect when on the limit for safety.
Anyway, it still is interesting who everyone is getting close to the same numbers. Only you and I tuned anything that has, in my mind, acceptable camber (my tires burned up when trying the other tunes). Except we disagree with caster. Yours is much lower, I’m going to have to try it to see how it works. Almost everyone agrees that the car needs more rear downforce than the front to plant the rear, even if the exact numbers vary. Spring rates are all over the place, though. I went soft for more mechanical grip and high rebound so the car doesn’t feel “lazy.” Wonder how a high downforce very stiff car would work?
Lol It’s still pushing around 210-220°F, but I believe that’s just because of my driving style. Unless other people are experiencing those kinds of temps, I’ll simply have to hold back a touch instead of pushing the car so hard.