Awesome. Im glad this was all helpful. If I dont get to it tonight then tomorrow for sure. I will drive your tune and see where I can place it. Let me know what tracks you used to get a feel or where you think it is best suited. Otherwise I will just just shot gun it and drive it several different places.
Hi DJ, thanks for that, I’ll be really interested in your feedback. As for the race gearbox, I would have gone for the sport for preference, as I didn’t intend to (and didn’t) change any individual gears, just the final drive, but when I tried the race gearbox with 6 gears, I preferred the way the power was delivered. Let me know what you think, and I’ll give your build a try too.
EliteApices - this was specifically for La Sarthe, all the testing was done there. That said, I had no intention of it being capable of reaching the heady heights of the leaderboards, I’m reckoning it would need a very different approach for that.
What I’ve been doing the last few weeks is re-learning to drive, without assists (except braking line, just as a reference point to be ignored as necessary), using manual with clutch. I’ve been running in Rivals, started from D class and have been working through.
When I got to La Sarthe, the F50 I’ve been favouring was red-lining far too early, so I thought this would be a good time to take the plunge and try and build something that could beat the time I’d set with that. I’ve managed that, I just hope I’ve improved the GT40, not ruined a perfectly good race car, I’ve got a sneaking suspicion that, with all the test laps I’ve run, I may have been able to do that with a stock car 
TallPaul - I just built your car and it is really good for my driving preferences. You are absolutely right about the gearbox, much smoother. In addition, I certainly got more speed, thus, better times. Your car is built for higher speed while mine is currently more handling. It delivered about 8mph higher. I did run into an issue with 2nd and 3rd gears and my throttle control. [The rear wanted to pass me by as I slowed down & after turning and increasing speed. Could be my shifting and braking technique as I am learning all these tracks as well.] If I can better control the throttle (again, being new and learning the controller and settings) I should be able to do much better with your build for lap times. For shorter tracks it might be best for me to continue to tweak the one w/better handling until I can come up to speed as an FM driver! LOL, learning that again, many years have past since I got my driver permit and license(s).
My build delivers: 485hp, 475 T, W=2437 (40%), 7.2/5.8/8.7/7.8/6.1, top speed 194 ; while yours is set to deliver ; 539hp, 528 T, W=2562 (41%), 7.6/5.6/9.1/9.3/5.9, top speed 204 (actual varies)
Anyway, I’ll keep testing both to see and get better compares as I continue to learn.
Thanks for initiating the post, certainly got a lot out of it.
Thanks gangrel! These inputs helped me as well.
The bump was fine at around 2-3 and don’t really see anything bad in the tune. Looks quite good to be honest.
I don’t know about the race transmission, try to run street then sport and see if it is better but it looks okay. You probably don’t need race tires for Le Mans though.
You mean the first one he posted, or the one he updated ?
His OP looks okay and the quoted post with the lower bump looks okay. It being a no aero car from that long ago a higher bump may hurt or help it. I can’t see whatever it was, he’s edited the post.
Try looking at your top speed as well then jack the front ride height to max and note it again. It may be faster.
Wait, I can see the original OP in the history and the changes. I like the newer one better with the camber.
Le Mans is all top speed and toe slows you. Don’t know how much in this game though.
Well Im glad you agree that i pointed him in the right direction as I am no expert yet.
Worm can you confirm the Decel aspect? Somebody tested it and mentioned that while slowing and coming into corners they were getting oversteer. The way they described it sounded to me that you would want to raise the decel to help with this correct? Im asking because the description just seems backwards to me.
less decel = more oversteer on lift
more decel = less oversteer on lift
Did some testing, toe had no effect on top speed, that was at .1/-.3. Raising front ride height to max. gained 1 mph for just a second near end of straight. To the OP, you need to lower the final drive to 3.10 to get top speed of 208 mph.
Thanks
Thanks Worm. I swear I have read the description and it is backwards the way I read it. Of course brake balance to me is backwards as well. And things are spelled incorrectly here and there. And Im pretty sure one of the engine swaps said something about springs… Im done.
Foot, that is good info to have. Thank you for testing and sharing that. Aside from top speed, can you describe the difference the changes made to the car going from 0/0 to .1/-.3 please?
I really didn’t pay attention to how the toe changed the handling (if any). I just used it as an example for the speed test.
TG Wormburner said my 1st tune looks quite good… I kind of want to frame that and stick it on my wall 
A humble thank you for that, your tuning guide has been the basis of my learning, supplemented with the other threads on here, and I know I’m barely scratching the surface so far.
Thanks for all the input on this, from everyone who has commented, it’s really helpful, and I properly appreciate people taking the time.
DJ, I’m really glad you like the tune, thanks man. I totally agree that it takes some careful throttle control in 2nd/3rd coming out of corners, too heavy on the throttle and it can be a problem.
I’ve tried Gangrel’s recommendations (just a few quick laps, I’ll be hitting Rivals when I get the time), and he, in my opinion, has taken my build and improved it no end. Overall stability is better, cornering response is sharper, getting the power on is easier, it is much more the outcome that I was aiming for, it feels like a race car. Massive credit to you Gangrel, I don’t think I could have done that if I’d spent another week on it.
So, my plan is too go and implement the changes suggested one at a time, to see if I can discern where the improvements come in, I want to learn as much as possible so I can improve my understanding of this process. There are certainly some settings there (particularly rebound and bounce) that differed greatly from where I was, and from most of the advice I’d seen. Hopefully by breaking it down I’ll be able to learn a bit more and my next build will be better.
Just spent some time with your tune. I really like it. I will keep that in my back pocket if I get back into A Class. I race only S right now. But it was quite good. It did everything well. Great job!
I noticed you said you tuned it for La Sarthe. I just want to showcase a point if I may. Im sure you have heard it before. But Old LeMans and La Sarthe are really quite a specialty track to tune/build for. And Build… is WAY more important then tune there. And really, that goes for every track type. I drove your build/tune for 3 very conservative laps and managed a 4:17.xxx easily. The car handled great. For my own enjoyment and for comparison I swapped out the Race compound tires for stock, and dropped the roll cage to stock. Then I swapped in the biggest motor. Then I widened the tires in back. (NOT saying this is the best way by any stretch) Away I went. I left your tune perfectly intact. Second lap (was a little sloppy) I did a 4:08.434. That is like going from 650th place to 132nd. I checked the boards. Again just swapping parts.
So again. Great job on your first tune. And always Build>Tune
Some really good ideas EliteApices…not too shabby, a mere 240mph top speed @ Old Musane. I can’t get some good times as the rest of you being a completely new FM driver (=“bad”).
EliteApices, thanks for trying it out, I’m glad you liked it, it’s really encouraging to hear that it was passable as a first attempt, and with the feedback and advice I’ve got through this thread, I’ve got plenty of ideas to take forward to continue my tuning education.
I totally take your point about the paramount importance of the build, and that I should really have gone down a different route to maximise the car for the track. I was more trying to familiarise myself with the tuning process, what could be done (and beat my previous best time, set with an F40). That’s a great illustration though, of how important tailoring the build is, really good advice for those of us starting out.
Now you’ve posted that dramatic difference in times I feel I’m gonna have to go back and try to maximise it. as a learning exercise if nothing else. With that and trying to learn how Gangrel’s changes affected the tune, I can see I’m far from finished with this GT40, but then I guess it makes sense to squeeze as much experience out of a project.
Thanks for the feedback
Anytime bud. Its funny because the first car I tried to really tune was for the same exact track. I tried it and tried it without looking into the forums at all. Then I jumped in rivals and got my doors blown off! I did the same thing though. And familiarity with what works is the most important thing like you said.
And to elaborate a bit. I put no thought into the parts I swapped. I just took off grip and added gobs of power. Im sure they weren’t the best choices. I just wanted a quick comparison. And also, I have been tuning for maybe 5 weeks now. Maybe a tiny bit ahead on the learning curve. But if I dont know an answer I wont make one up. I would hate to steer anybody wrong.
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My post about the foolishness of high camber was completely wrong. I edited it out and apologize to anyone who might have thought it was good advice.