Thanks for the shout out, haha.
The VX220/speedster is indeed a monster car on Laguna! Easily top 100 capable in the right hands. Probably in my top 5 Laguna cars. Yet this car is a horror to drive and tune. If you struggle with light cars this one will just kill you. Laguna is the home of light weight cars though, so you’re going to struggle in general. I’d suggest the corvettes but mainly the C6 GS as it has good gears for Laguna. Not light but runs good times and easy to drive.
If you run a 510, make it RWD. AWD will hurt more than help. The 2-Eleven is so much better at handling than any other S class car that it can hold its own on Laguna, but anything else might need a bit of a power boost.
As it happens most people that have ran the 510 on Laguna in S-class run it AWD. It runs very competitive times AWD.
my tuning methods seem to differ alot than the norm that all of you are doing. i focus my energy on suspension only. My builds are race brakes suspension and gear box straight up and then aero and race tires on stock wheels. then I tune my car focusing on spring rates damper rates etc to suit my driving style which is grip focused.
I tune my s class cars on suzuka i do 5 laps in test drive and then evaluate myself. If I feel that the car is oversteering i tune my spring rates to produce more understeer then I take 0.1 degrees of toe to increase turn in to compensate then i do another 5 laps its a long process to get the stability i want but it makes me a very consistent racer i feel. not the fastest by a long shot i can get myself into the top 2% on most tracks ive attempted at leaderboard times. once i have found my car is totally stable for me i add power and re test again. although recently i found out that a car that i tuned for suzuka and it was stable on that track wasnt very stable on others especially nurburgring. im gonna start tuning my cars for that track i think. anyway i hope my little rant helps at all
Race gearboxes are mostly useless… Most cars that are used in S class are relatively quick stock, so they’ll have decent enough transmissions out of the box. And I’ll compare the AWD to RWD, D. Thanks for the tip!
I’ve seen them run 26s at Laguna and I’ve heard they’re good for 57s on Nurb GP. I’ve no interest in AWD though so never tried. I’m sure you could get a RWD 510 to run times just as quick but the AWD version will be much better for online racing.
That last sentence is exactly what I discovered. The RWD one has better stats, but it’s so hard to drive and so bad at putting the power down that the lap times are extremely similar.
For the most part you want to play to each cars P.I. strengths. Adding power to a Miata as mentioned above adds to much P.I. for too little performance gains. There are some cars in each class that have the near perfect balance. And those tend to be the leaderboard cars. High power cars tend to gain more from engine upgrades. Lightweight cars can usually cram every adjustable part into a P.I. class and still have room for most if not all weight reduction upgrades.
Use Aero to reduce P.I., than try reducing the aero settings as close to minimum before you start losing grip. That usually lowers lap times. Pay attention to how much the g-loading changes from one tire to the next. Handling can be tuned. Tires are about grip, which means cornering speed. Many power cars can get away with less cornering speed, saving the P.I. for other upgrades than tires. Some cars grip just as well on Sport Tires, as other cars on racing tires. Or Street tires to Sport Tires.
A lot of the handling cars are much more difficult to wring the speed out of them. Whereas some power cars have an easy time getting about the same lap times. But as was mentioned above, the physics of this game aren’t very realistic. So there are lots of things that shouldn’t be the way they are.
I was talking about the actual tune not parts list, thats more important