Don’t worry about launch. It’s how fast you get off the line.
A tune isn’t going to get you 4 seconds or lose you 4 seconds (if it’s drivable) that is all build.
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This is an incredibly helpful approach to setting up a car, but it seems like success really hinges on the target temp/PSI you want your tires at. In Forza 4 the values quoted above seemed right, but both the PSI values and tire temps I’m seeing in Forza 5 on tunes that otherwise seem pretty optimal are quite a bit higher than this (36.5 PSI/235° F on my fastest car). Am I Just Doing It Wrong, or are the F5 optimals really that much higher?
Could somebody recommend a good RWD car for me to practice tuning with the guide above? im guessing there are probably good starter cars to try this out on.
You are probably going to be looking closer to 220-230 here. Haven’t changed my PSI though
94 Miata
So it sounds like I just need to lower the PSI on all four tires then…
Thanks Worm
Very nice!
Here’s another important thing I read and makes total sense.
Learn how to hit the same line lap after lap with the default setups packaged before attempting any other adjustments. The biggest mistake rookie drivers make, are trying to adjust a chassis for what they believe is an ill handling car. I get so many emails from drivers that think the default easy, intermediate or fast setups that come with the sim are terrible because they cannot drive them. You must become comfortable with these default setups before you should even look into tinkering with any adjustments in the garage.
I can’t stress enough the importance of adjusting only ONE component at a time. Making more than one change is nonproductive because you won’t be able to determine what change made the car better or worse. Be sure to have plenty of paper & pencil on hand. It is critical to take notes after every adjustment you make. With all the adjustments available to make, it’s real easy to forget what adjustment you made 3 practice sessions ago. Record keeping is important.
One of the more overlooked aspects of chassis setup is the driver himself. More so than ever it’s critical for drivers to run the same line over & over when practicing & adjusting. If you’re entering the track low in turn 1 & the car is loose, don’t make an adjustment then start entering the same corner in the middle. This again is nonproductive & you won’t know if it’s your line into the corner that has helped or made your condition worse or if it’s the adjustment itself. Driver consistency is very important when trying to determine how a car is reacting throughout a corner. Smooth & gradual throttle, brake, & steering inputs are required. Gone are the days of barreling into a corner, slamming on the brakes, & cranking the wheel hard left.
More Here The "ULTIMATE" Racing Car Chassis Setup Guide and Tutorial
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Walker,
Manual with clutch defeats the need for a clutch so it makes it a waste of pi. Flywheel has no positive effects (the weight loss isn’t worth the pi increase) also has other negative effects on the car. Not based on what you use to drive, just the worst use of pi.
1 Like
TorriderGull8
Thanks good to know i can squeeze a little BHP in then lol safe
Oh and thanks worm and the others with helpful info pros and cons got this snapped onscreen so i can keep refering back.
Tuning cars has given me more than i could have imagined I play even more now ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS GAME!!!
Does anyone think they’ll ever put in an option to tune at the pre race screen then your track specfic tunes will be easier to get to with out the long process of in and out.
Thanks again!!
That is the only thing that bothers me about this game. If you want to tune or switch cars pre-race it takes a long time to go back and load all over again.
It just cuts into my driving time.
Other than that, absolute best game ever.
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About to give tuning in this game my first shot. As far as assists go, what do you recommend setting the Braking and Traction/Stability Control assists to when testing out the car? I’ve been playing with Abs On, and have been switching between either Traction or Stability Control only depending on the car (Traction control seems more helpful to me in the faster, harder to drive cars).
Every one should be driving with no Assists … TC should be off ABS should be off Steering should be Sim and Damage should be Sim … I do use the Braking only Drive line not for speed reasons … mainly cuz I have a hard time remembering all the tracks … so I use it as a HUD for Cornering … but I never use it as a speed monitor
Nice write up but ill stick to using Tuning calculators
Tuning calc’s aren’t any good
I Agree They Make Your Car Worst Sometimes. I Rather Tune With Math If Is Possible In Forza 5
Skate what equations do you use? I use Math as well and was wondering if yours differs from mine.
Skate what equations do you use? I use Math as well and was wondering if yours differs from mine.
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I Determine a Spring Rate According to the Bias … Weight x SR% = SR then SR x Bias = Front Spring … and SR - Front Spring = Rear Spring