Details in the pages.

New variant of the compact version with damper tuning by damping ratio, under the assumption Forza damper units are n/mm/s. https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst153947_Ride-frequency-tuning-calculator.aspx

Details in the pages.

New variant of the compact version with damper tuning by damping ratio, under the assumption Forza damper units are n/mm/s. https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst153947_Ride-frequency-tuning-calculator.aspx

Updated, now includes a metric version!

Updated, dampers scale better with weight. Won’t work with the extremely heavy vehicles… Wouldn’t need to go to these lengths if Forza would take a hint from GT Sport and give players ride frequency and damping ratio tuning instead of raw units… Albeit with more precision than GT Sport… like 0.01 hz and 1% damping ratio

Updated. Damper scaling was applied incorrectly resulting in heavier than appropriate damping on the light end of the car. So, that’s fixed.

There is a new, additional damper section, with inputs for spring rates. If the weight distribution inputs and spring inputs calculate as balanced ride frequency, and the Scale field is at 100%, both damper sections should read the same. If the rear ride frequency is lower, the rear dampers of the new section will read lower. Specifically, at a matched **damping ratio** to the front dampers.

I have looked at this several times, and still have absolutely no clue in what you are trying to do. The tried and true formula for Forza that dates back to Forza Motorsports 3, and before that, has been sport on for every Forza to date. Which means in order to get your roll bars, which are 1 - 65, you take 65, subtract 1 which is 64. You multiply 64 by the front;s weight ration, which you have set at 53% and it becomes 33.93. Then you add the 1 back to it and it becomes 34.93. THAT is the correct front Anti-Roll Bar for a 50/50 weight balance for a car. Then, for the rear, you take 65, subtract one, multiple by .47, and add 1 again which will give you 31.08. The formula has always been this :

Maximum # - Minimum #, * by (Front/Rear Weight Ratio) + 1

This is included for Spring Rate, Anti-Roll Bars, Rebound Stiffness, and Bump Stiffness.

So, if you need to know the history of this formula, you can go here : http://web.archive.org/web/20130312174826/http://forums.forza.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

This was posted on 12OCT2011 by APX Walker, which was a very well known person back in the day.

To further illustrate, I even wrote a Drift Tuning guide over 3 years ago using the same math for vehicles with a weight ratio between 50%-55% for Forza 5 to even show that the formula still worked, and it worked with 6 just in case you were wondering. This can be seen here https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst39453_Drift-Tuning.aspx

And even with FM&, I redid the old guide to match for it BEFORE the drift springs came out and was still about a year old : https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst108079_Old-Tuning-guide--but-still-works.aspx

Now I know you are talking about “ride frequency” but in this game, there really is no such thing. Not saying that ride height does not mean anything, nor the fact it doesn’t actually change the way that the suspension works, but most people will lower their car for several reason, and even if you raised it, this formula will still work whether it is slammed or raised to the max.

Do not take this as a bash on your thread because you obviously did a lot of work on your excel spread sheet, but it literally makes no sense what so ever. I say this because 1, you don’t actually explain anything so it looks like it was just made up out of thing air. 2, there is no real formula break down of anything, so no one can literally see how this is actually factored for practical use. And 3, just looking at your Imperial sheet the only thing that looks anywhere near correct is on the Anti Roll bars at 34.8 and 30.9, which is still off.

The difference between Race Springs and Rally springs is the fact Rally Springs are softer. It has nothing to do with the travel, or ride height, because it is exactly the same, just Rally Springs automatically make the ride height to the maximum. So your current spring set up, is literally all way to soft which will cause way too much body roll. This also goes for your dampening, but the face you didn’t distinguish between Rebound/Bump Stiffness is a bit disheartening because they are two different things. sense you have simple and ratio-matched. To just about anyone I know, have talked to, or played with, this means absolutely nothing.

Yes, I tried this set up on a car, and then I used it on my calculator and ran this on a track in both FM7 (Indianapolis GP-Classic) and on the Lego Goliath on FH4. Literally, my calculator had almost 3 seconds on your tuning on the Lego Goliath, and on FH7, it was so far apart it was a freakin joke and I tried about 6 different settings as well. The car was so unbalanced and had so much body roll it reminded me of the Mother from “What’s Eating Gilbert Grape” trying to roll over in a bed to grab a twinkie off of a TV dinner tray.

If this thing works for you, God speed because I have no earthly idea how you can drive anything with it. But I know I am not the only person who thinks so because while I was testing this, I was in an XB party with about 5 other people who were literally doing the same things, using both your tuning and my tuning, and we all had results similar to mine.

So please, try to explain this thing out because we are literally trying to figure how the hell you got all of this as far as your formula and how it actually works, and no, no need to try and dumb things down, I am an actual College Professor as a Computer Systems Technician Instructor and have been in IT for 17+ years including over 7 of those years doing IT for the U.S. Army and work with numbers far harder than this for a living. Think Boolean Algebra difficulty type, or what basically is (A not not (represented by - over the A twice) plus B not)(A + C)(A + C not) Which is just part of Computer Architecture, If you want more of a visual, look up Demorgan’s Law and you will get more of a sense. Or math like F = 1 / CT x 10^6 or CT = 1 / F x 10^-9 where F = Frequency and CT = Clock Time. BTW, that is how you figure out the Clock speed of your CPU from the Frequency and Reverse, and yes, that will find the Clock Speed of your CPU whether it is a 2.8 GHz or a 4.2GHz. And even more retarded math when you figure out that a computer does NOT subtract, it only adds. So yes, even you going on your phone, or computer, or calculator and typing in 4-3, the computer is literally adding to give you 1.

The formula to balance ride rate does not involve the min or max. It is frontspring/front%*rear%=rear spring. Your calculator is giving higher ride ride rates for >50% weight and lower rear ride rates for <50%.

I don’t use matched rates for drifting. I use .2 hz or greater difference, stiffer in the front.

Ride frequency is the rate at which an undamped, sprung mass will oscillate when disturbed. Determining it in Forza requires a simple calculation, using wheel rate and sprung mass. I’ve changed the formulas in the tables from simplified versions, to Hz = 1/(2π)(N-m/Kg)^2, with 10-decimal conversions from pounds to kg, and N/m to lb/inch and kgf/mm.

I think you misunderstand the proper use of the sheet. There isn’t “single” correct output. Pick your ride frequencies, try different rates. Pick your overall roll bar stiffness, then tweak the final balance as you wish. Pick matched damper values, shifting up and down as you need, for rebound and bump, and polish it off with test driving and fine tuning.

Horizon 4 rally suspensions have more travel and lower minimum spring rates. Look again.

For the ratio matched damper balancer, I took my Newton/kilogram/newton-meter-second damping ratio calculator (for another game), and wrote a formula to calculate the matched rear damping ratio value from the front damper value, weight distribution, and spring *balance*. Vehicle weight and spring *rate* are not necessary because Forza dampers are unitless, and there is an arbitrary range of weight-matched values to choose from. If you expand the hidden columns on the right edge of the sheet, you’ll see the un-rounded ARB values, and un-rounded ratio-matched damper outputs.

The front outputs of the ratio-matched section has the same weight correction factor as the simple damper section (critical damping increases by the square of the weight increase). The rear outputs read the weight distribution, and spring inputs. If the spring rate balance matches the weight distribution, the outputs of both damper sections will be the same. If the rear ride rate is lower, the rear dampers of the second section will be lower, and vice versa. I’ve compressed the damper output range, applied the scaling factor to both sections, and added a toggle in the rear ratio-matched/precise outputs that falls back to the simple outputs if the rear spring input field is empty. If you’re using balanced ride frequencies you don’t need that section anyway

This is the formula for the front spring value in the first (default 1.50) Hz row:

=(E5*2*(pi()))^2*(L1/2.204622622)/2*L2/175.126790921

Ride frequency as Hz, is=1/(2π)*√(Nm/Kg), where Nm is Newton-meters.

Solve Hz=1/(2π)*√(Nm/Kg) for Nm, it becomes Nm=(Hz*2π)²*Kg.

(E5*2*(pi()))^2 is (Hz*2π)².

(L1/2.204622622) is the weight in pounds converted to Kg. /2 for one of the wheels on the axle. *L2 for weight at the front.

/175.126790921 to convert from Nm to lb-inch.

Actually, my calculator even’s out the car’s suspension, period. You are using math from another game and for suspension in real life scenario. Now I see why your stuff makes absolutely no sense and the car ride I, and others, experienced from your tune.

Yes, I picked several different sections on car’s that were 53% from your sheet on the 53%, which does include scrolling over. Which explains why your entire set up was janky.

If you pay attention to my calculator, it literally even’s out the car’s suspension ratio. Which is the correct spring rate, the correct ARB, and the correct stiffness with the only one needing to be changes is the bump stiffness as I have said. It doesn’t matter much about the ride height, so that is not a factor, and it isn’t all about just drifting as it pertains to Drift, Race, and Rally suspension.

What does that mean? It means there is as little body roll as possible. Body roll can equal death in the racing and even drifting world, and in Rally, well I hope you like rolling over and flipping because that is what it will do.

The values you are pulling, are no where near equivelant to Forza. Not in the least bit because 1, Forza is a simulator and not factual. And 2, you picked a formula for a completely different game than the Forza Brand, which automatically will disqualify it for Forza because of how things are set up. Meaning the types of tuning we can do, that is why you can’t take a set up from Forza and use it on let’s say virtually any Gran Turismo game because of the difference in Tuning.

That being said, the reason most people will dismiss your sheet, is because it is completely irrelevant to Forza as a whole. As I said, you spent a lot of time on your sheet, made it look nice, did a lot of calculations, but is completely useless for probably 99.9% of the users here or on Forza.

As for my sheet, it is based off of a Formula that is several years old, follows the Forza tuning set up, has been slightly altered over the years to combat the changes made to the tuning and additional upgrade options in Forza. Not only that, it predates even things like Forzatune which a lot of people will go to, but some of the long term die hard fans of Forza, use this formula from my spreadsheet on 90% of the cars the build, and use for online and offline play.

So your sheet doesn’t really come close to A) Weight Distribution, B) Spring Rate Balance, and C) Rebound/Bump Balance because you started out with wrong formulas. You can do those calculations all day long for 50+ years, but unless it actually gets implemented into Forza, your calculations will never be correct. But the old formula that is the base on my calculator has been around for several years, is based off of Forza and Forza’s tuning guideline, has been tried, tested, and proven since Forza Horizon 3 and probably even before that.

In other words, you can not use real world calculations for real cars in Forza as a simulator, and you can not use a forumla/measurement/ratio for another game because again, that game is based on one style of tuning, and it is no where near the style of Forza. Which is fine, but it will never do anyone any good if the settings do not make the car handle the best way possible.

And no, you can use my calculator for Front, Mid, and Rear engines meaning the Front weight ration can literally be 0-100, or more realistically, 40-55 which is what most of the ranges I have seen in Froza for weight distribuition unless the car is a special anomaly .

Stop trolling me.

LMAO trolling you? You literally just posted it yourself. Your website, isn’t even for a game. Then, you literally said you used something from another game. What I said, is not a troll but a fact.

The information I gave you, is all from here in the Forza Forums, which is a fact. Which comes from the web archives even for the Forza Forums. Which has the member’s complete brake down for tuning from Forza Motorsports 4, which he even states comes from Forza 3, which is a fact. And then I gave other thread posts, from the Forza Forums once again, to further illustrate this.

It seems the only one trolling anything, or anyone is you because you can’t literally show anything as actual proof, or the fact that it even works in actual use besides theory crafting your tuning. Mine, has been used for over 6 years over several Forza titles. And bringing this to your attention, you asked not to be trolled? Seriously?

It’s not my site. It’s the site that first powered the frequency calculations, with a 6-digit correction factor after weight*Hz².

The first calculators I made were small, very simple. Their purpose was to run the same calculations I was doing manually during tuning, efficiently. Here, I was still tuning with “bump ratio”.

Then I realized, it didn’t matter what the weight was, I was going to pick a spring/damper/ARB value and change it anyway. So I made sections to read the front or rear of a value, and the weight distribution, and balance for it (in the case of springs, the min and max possible within Forza’s 1% weight distribution accuracy). This what that looked like. At this time I was experimenting with weight-corrected tire pressures. Mixed bag, that.

While this was useful, it still wasn’t giving me any insights on spring rates between cars. Every car was it’s own rabbit hole. Then came the concept of ride frequency.

Ride frequency is *the* metric of spring stiffness, applied in passenger car and race car engineering. Offroad, everything. GT Sport can tune in ride frequency because it *makes sense*, especially between cars, to show the *effective* stiffness of given springs, by taking the sprung mass into account. Setting spring rates without it is shooting in the dark. You can get it right, or do it fast. With ride frequency as a guideline, you can do it right, fast, once you’ve learned which frequencies you like.

So, I made 2 moves. One, I made a tuner to show the spring rates F/R for a given ride frequency. Two, I eliminated all of the manual data entry, aside from the weight and weight distribution. If I want stiffer springs I shift down. If I drive a tune for a while that does well, that shows itself to be 54.6% front, and needs to be stiffer, I shift down in the table. It’s the most efficient solution I can imagine for my approach to tuning given the obscurity of Forza’s indications.

The current version doesn’t have “bump ratio” anywhere because nothing served me better in Horizon 4 than 1:1 bump:rebound, sometimes 1.1:1. I’ve won rushes, races, Team lobbies, FFA lobbies, had fun until my install broke after trying to move it to a different drive, and I decided I’d had enough of everything I didn’t like (around the time the festival playlist was introduced).

This is my tool. It means no offense. It’s based on research, observation, and personal experience. I wish it could serve those who try it, well. If not, they are free to adapt it to their needs, or eschew it altogether.

By the way, here’s a pic of the damping ratio calculator I mentioned.

As I said before, if it works for you, then awesome.

But again, you mentioned GT Sport which is vastly different in tuning in Forza and always has been and I doubt any of them will ever be the same. That is why GT has the type of Sponsorship it does have, especially with the GT Academy and accredited since it is more “Actual Simulator” than Forza.

Now with that said, there really is no Ride Frequency in Forza. And you can’t use a .xx value for the weight ratio or anything else because as Forza see’s it, it has no value or data to represent this, so you have to use what is available.

As far as the Spring rate, I already gave the formula that is done to factor this out. The meaning behind it is let’s say the weight is 1000 lbs, for easier sake, and the weight ratio is 53% front, 47% rear. Well then you will know that to balance the car out to a 50/50 ratio, the weight needs to be 530 lbs in the front and 470 in the back. To control this, you will have to adjust the spring value, so the weight stays shifted in this position as possible. So we can take a simple spring rate of 100 for minimum spring rate, and 1300 for max spring rate. Taking the formula, the calculation will be (1300 - 100) * .53 or .47 (front and rear) + 100. If you do this, you will see that you will need your front spring rate of 736 in the front, and 664 in the rear. This means the front springs are stiffer in the front, and softer in the rear. Doing this will keep the weight in place with minimum body roll because the springs will be able to absorb the amount in a more constant proportion.

So in retrospect :

Spring rates = Static Weight Transfer

Dampening = Transient Weight Transfer

So the Dampening has a lot to do with how the car will corner via the weight transfer. So you use the same formula for the Spring Rate, with both Rebound Stiffness and Bump Stiffness to reduce the body weight being thrown to hard, or not hard enough. So to get the best possible overall balance of the car, you want to even this out between both.

I can see your stuff working better if you were able to distinguish between each tire, or corner of the car, but Forza is stuck with only being able to distinguish between front and rear, which is why Nascar kind of sucks in Forza.

So knowing the formula, and we know that for Drift/Race suspension, the Dampening has a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 20 (1/10 for Rally) So we make the formula of (20-3) * .53/.47 + 3. For each value we will get 10.01, or 12, and 10.99, or 11 for the Rebound Stiffness. The Bump Stiffness is usually lower for the suspension to help keep the control in a bit more control and is usually 50% to 75% of the Rebound Stiffness. So taking our previous answer, you literally just multiple each value by 50% or .5 and 75% or .75. Given these values, you will end up with 6.006 (6) - 9.0075(9) and 5.495(5.5) - 8.2425 (8.24) for front and rear.

The reason the Bump Stiffness changes is to get better control of how the car handles around corners. So when I drift, I usually set at 50% and tune up to 75% and the opposite for racing.

I never said there was anything wrong with it initially because people i know who are top posters on leaderboards in several categories (Drift, Drag, Time Attack, ect) could not figure out what in the world you were trying to do, hence why we tested different settings from what we can see on your sheet (using about the same weight, 53% car weight ratio in both games on a dedication race/track and we actually grouped together and played around so we can see the Real Time Data as a group and not individually and then used my calculator on the same vehicle and saw the vast difference. Meaning, we all had the same car, same tune, same track, all at once side by side.

I see where you come from because I have and played GT Sport on Day 1 of it’s release and I can see it working in there because how the tuning is and how more accurate the tuning is in there vs Forza, but in Forza itself, I just can’t fathom how this works for the majority because it is a bit complicated with the process, and it’s pulling elements from outside of the game vs using elements in the game.

If it works for you, and you’re happy with it, great. More power to you. But most will steer clear of it from it’s complexity, how it’s made without the initial thought process, and not understanding it fully. Trust me, I get it. But that is probably why your guide is not getting as much attention because of the combination of everything, especially when it’s 5 months roughly behind mine, and mine is based off of years of use and alteration and has been known to work several times with each release of Forza.

So no, no troll, no disrespect. It is trying to figure out [Mod Edit - Abbreviated profanity, profanity and profanity that is disguised but still alludes to the words are not permitted - D] and htw this works and is applied, but as I see it, and everyone I know who see’s it, we can’t see a valid use of it from what we know and experience. And I have been around Forza for a long time, even before the date that shows on my ID because it never took in some of my Forza score (Forza Horizon, Motorsport 2) or accurately display some of my score (Horizon 2/FH2 : F&F Ed) because we all know how broken that system is.

And another things that probably doesn’t help, is seeing your account as basically a brand new account (literally they see the 1050/created in 2019) and immidiately get turned off, but then see the person who has been around for 9+ years and have almost 16K points and they will see what initially shows as Experienced vs the “balls haven’t dropped” stage of being new.

And yes, your “chat” stuff may be a lot higher than mine, but also, most of the stuff has a point, doesn’t need to be explained as much, is precise and informational and I don’t play with the butt butt forums, I stay strictly between Drift and Tune lounge for 95% of the time and offer help and advice to some questions if it hasn’t been answered clearly, or not explained enough or at all.

It is large. Try this. -page is now merged into main sheet-

I made 2 compact versions, 1 with 2 up and down shifts for ARB/spring/dampers, 1 with single outputs of each–except the rear springs. Like many games/sims, the perfect tightness of Forza suspension means, at least with a controller, I can feel minute changes close to balanced frequencies, so repeated hotlapping and tweaking is the only way to nail the balance. Unless something has changed since I last played, it’s still relevant. I usually start at the softest potential match, then swap to the stiffest, to feel the difference. Switch between softer and stiffer, within the range, until you find that perfect balance where it rotates well without oversteering.

I only play with a controller and have been using this formula since FM3. Any and all of my tunes are usually in a hot lap basis where I will throw it all on the calculator and tune everything but the bump stiffness at once, or do it in installments to get a feel for the car so I know which side of the bump stiffness I should be on. Most cars take around 15-20 minutes from start to finish if I take the longer steps. If it’s the shorter ones, well it takes less than 5 mins and feels pretty much perfect.

Please realize–for 52% front, 520/480 springs (and multiples of) is balanced. In (A-B)C+B=X, “+B” throws the balance.

http://web.archive.org/web/20130312174826/http://forums.forza.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

*To determine the springs, you do the same formula as the anti-roll bars. (A-B)C+B=X*

*Keep in mind that the softest and stiffest setting will be different on every car.*

*Let’s say the stiffest setting was 1000 and your softest was 100 and you had 52% weight on the front.*

*you would do…*

*1000-100=900*

*900 x .52=468 (round to the nearest .5)*

*468+100=568*

**568** would be the Front Spring setting

*Rear:*

*1000-100=900*

*900 x .48=432*

*432=100=532*

**532** would be the Rear Spring setting.

568+532=1100.

If A was 1200 and B 100, (A-B) would be 1100.

Balancing 1100 total spring, with 52% front:

(1200-100)*0.52=**572** >568

(1200-100)*0.48=**528** <532

If I use just this and don’t fine-tune, I’ll notice irregularities. 1% isn’t an adequate margin for spring balancing. 52% could be 52.49%, 51.51%, or anywhere in-between. For convenience, ±0.5% is accurate enough.

1100*0.525= 578
1100*0.475=

1100*0.515= 567
1100*0.485=

The perfect balance is hiding somewhere between 578-523R, and 567-533R.

It’s easiest to take the 52% front spring, 572 (any spring rate will work), and balance for the opposite axle at ±0.5%:

572/(52+0.5)*(99.5-52)=518 is the lowest possible match
572/(52-0.5)*(100.5-52)=539 is the highest possible match

This step is a pain with just a calculator, and not strictly necessary. If using (spring)*weightdist for front and rear, and the result for rear is around 500, assume between 490 and 510 for the ideal rear spring. at 750, 735 to 765. At 1000, 980 to 1020. I wish Forza would just show weight distribution and/or spring balance/ride rate to 0.01% accuracy, in tuning. The day it does, this stuff won’t be necessary! L:

I played Forza 7 for 2 days and uninstalled it again. It’s gameplay is an awkward split between inches from lifeless, and hyper-volatile. The visual car model belies the majority of forces at play. Horizon 4 is more faithful, regardless of how over-sprung, over-damped and un-balanced the default setups are. With good and/or soft setups, the cars act as expected most of the time. When they don’t, it seems chassis related. Forza’s chassis flex mechanic is almost as bold as LiveForSpeed’s hybrid tire model, and in H4 it’s equally hit-or-miss in practice.

Your calculation is what we have known for years. All of us didn’t even need to calculate anything because we know how it works. But again, you are using a more real world scenario. Forza has, and until further notice, always use things by a % based off a whole number. Which also means, that their tuning, and physics are based off of this whole number. So there can not be a floating number, just a plain integer. As I said, I understand your math, I understand your logic, but this game, does not follow either one. This is why when my friends and I tried to use your tuning settings, it was majorly off.

And I do know that a more accurate tune set up has been asked from Forza for both their Motorsports and Horizon games but to no avail. A lot of tuners wish we had more precision and we are always left with questions.

Motorsport is more simulation that Horizon. Horizon is based from Simulation and Arcade so that younger kids can enjoy driving around in cars where the more gear heads will go around with Motorsport.

Also, many of us believe the reason everyone’s cries for changes are falling upon deaf ears is because the racing genre as a whole is dying out, which would explain the decline in multiplayer capabilities, like the voice chat missing, to the delay in the next Forza title, meaning they could either be trying to overhaul the entire game, or give us another lackluster game yet again.

And again, if your tuning works for you, then awesome. But there is literally no ride frequency in Forza and it does not make sense to try and use a ride frequency type tune in the game because the math would be off, and so would the actual cars. This is why there are virtually no ride frequency questions on tuning, or set ups, or tuning calculators for ride frequency unless they introduce it into the actual game that is based off of their physics.

The claim “There is no ride frequency in Forza”, Motorsport or Horizon, is foolish. A linear spring/suspended mass system has a resonant frequency. It can be calculated by the values of the two.

If one becomes familiar with ride frequency as a metric of applied stiffness/compliance, they can save time and effort tuning new cars.

I had to reply to this…I’ve been on forza since forza 2 or 3… spent countless hours tuning and racing.

I’ve built a tuning calculator based on real world suspension math and it’s fantastic in Forza. It’s just funny that someone goes through all the effort to build something and a troll comes on to say “well I’m glad it works for you, but I’m going to trash your idea blah blah blah”. Dude, if it works for him and not you, then let it go.

You both need to realize that suspension tuning is all about tuning to your driving style given the type of surface or track you are running. there are no wrong setups… just run the run that works for you. Why trash another person’s setup? just run what you like. If you don’t like, it, then move on. seriously man… move along.

To the OP, I’ve looked at your tool. It is just way too confusing. nobody will use that. Also, you need to realize that after finding spring rate the rest is just personal preference. There is no calculated perfect setup - AND THAT APPLIES TO THE OLD “FORZA WAY” AS WELL.

I think the old forza way gives me a car that feels like trash. Too much ARB…no grip…very twitchy. That’s just not my preference.

I hear you about roll bars. I haven’t used more than 20 front ARB on the stiffest of my Horizon cars unless they are so high-downforce and travel-limited, unless the rigidity is worth not bottoming out as much (GTR LM FE, GT1 Strassenversion, both over 60 combined ARB). In most cars I use 10-15 front. edit: Now that my dampers are down to better numbers, I’m finding 20+ ARB isn’t bad. 30 is pretty stiff though. Might start keeping close track of what numbers I use for which weights, dunno how best to do it currently other than trial and error with every new car.

Lately in Horizon, I set the springs, then increase the damping at 1:1 bumper:rebound until a stab of the brakes while rolling on flat ground causes one pitch forwards, and one pitch back to complete rest (looking at suspension telemetry). That number I assume is critical damping. Multiply that by .65 (65% critical damping) and set bump and rebound to that number. eg. if critical damping looks like 5.5 bump:rebound on the front, the final setting will be 3.7 (rounded down–slightly underdamped is easier to drive than overdamped). This works for me every time.

If Forza added ride frequency indicators next to the springs, damping ratio indicator next to damping units, and changed ARB stiffness units to lbf/in and kgf/mm, I think new players could learn tuning much faster. More would get hooked on the game and appreciate it for it’s deepest features. Without those indications, we’re all shooting in the dark. When you’ve mastered it it’s kind of fun, but it’s taken me years to research and wrap my head around. I don’t think I’m the only one who’s found it so obscure.