I usually build my cars to use for all tracks, rather than building a car for each type of track (Which I should really do, but I’m lazy). Currently I build and tune my cars on the Nurburgring, but I was wondering if there’s another, possibly better track to tune good all-around cars on? Thanks.
I like to use a very flat track so that you don’t benefit from the slope of the road to confirm the benefit of the tune. So I use Dubai and/or Sebring
I use Road Atlanta as it has some tight chicanes as well as a long straight for tuning gears. Also I’m fairly consistent on it which helps a lot.
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If you re aiming for the top of the leaderboards, it is preferable to tune for the track itself since some tracks will benefit from different build.
If you re looking for an all around build and tune, Silverstone, sonoma and catalunya national are my go to tracks
i use Suzuka West Alt layout primarily. it has a variety of corners, a long straight, and different types of braking scenarios. the track has pretty much all of the different possibilities you would see on most tracks.
once tuned, you can easily tweak downforce and gearing for a specific track.
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Always Nurburg GP for me.
A couple of straights, lots of braking points, fast corners slow corners, chicanes, bumps and kerbs. For me it has everything including a giant oil container.
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Silverstone and/or Catalunya for overall. Yet, other tracks if tuning a car for Grip, Acceleration, or Speed. Then, track specific for hot-lapping.
PRKid
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Have used Mugello a lot because it has it all. Wery good track to adjust over-/understeer, high- and low speed cornering and even final gear ratio at the long straight. If a car works on Mugello it can take most tracks.
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You’ll need 3-4 builds. What most people above provided are cars that fit into build 2 and 3.
Build 1: max grip with lowest possible weight with likely use of roll cage. You’ll need something like this for lime rock. A lime rock tune is usually looser than what you would typically need for a mega grip track so it’s usually something as small as decreasing rear sway bars to be more well rounded. This build has limited use, but since small/tight tracks come up online, you’ll need it.
Build 2: your general grip tune with some power to get out of corners. This differs from build one with slightly less handling usually via tires, tire width and/or roll cage. This will be your work horse build for many tracks. It may also work at some acceleration leaning tracks due to higher grip values vs what everyone else uses. Just about every track listed above can be used for this build. Use what track you know well.
Build 3: acceleration build for more power oriented tracks such as Sebring, road Atlanta full, road America, etc. This will be your work horse when build #2 is too low on power. Road Atlanta or Indy GP are excellent tracks in order to dial in the handling for acceleration builds. Acceleration builds usually are on stock or street tires (street for C/B class on up) with tire width, supercharger, and as much weight as you can drop.
Build 4: no aero max power build with no handling upgrades or handling upgrades limited to race suspension and sway bars. This car is needed for LeMan, Daytona road courses, and other point and shoot alternate layouts at road America, Watkins Glen, and top gear.
There is a lot of overlap with build 2 and 3 and for some builds you can get away with running them at all tracks that fit the mold. Honda’s are a good example. As you get better you’ll find that you may have 4 or 5 builds to fit in this range of tracks.
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i like to use sebring full because the track is worn and doesn’t have a lot of grip. so when you dial in your car there it is really good on the tracks with more grip. plus the back stretch is great for dialing in the gear ratios…
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Like some others, my base go-to tuning track is Cat National. Then some fine tuning based on what type of build I’m doing. I think Swerve’s explanation of build types is spot on.
I tend to jump between Sebring and Laguna Seca. No real reason for it, to be honest, I just find both tracks challenging and want to make sure I have a car that can handle them both.
If your objective is to have one all around build/tune that is competitive on majority of the tracks + Nordschleiffe, may I suggest using the Airfield/Test Track?
Reasons:
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The ramp at the start of the run is an excellent indicator of suspension stiffness (springs + dampers). If the front rate is too stiff, the car lands rear first. If the rear is too stiff, the car lands nose first. if the overall rate is too stiff, the car stays airborne for too long.
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The 1st long right is an excellent indicator of tire choice/grip + front/rear anti-roll bar balance. If the car pushes around the corner by a LOT, then the car/tires do not have sufficient grip. if the car pushes moderately, then anti-roll bar can be adjusted.
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The 2nd long right can be used for same as #2 but I use this corner for throttle on-off characteristics. The car has to be threaded into the tunnel opening (the right side tunnel opening) therefore being able to control the car’s over/understeer is critical for this corner.
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The last long 180 degree corner is a good indicator of differential settings since the corner is relatively slow but you want to put down 100% power as soon as possible.
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Then the grip vs. power compromise can be evaluated. If the car is still a struggle to keep on the line then a higher grip tires or aero need to be considered. If the car has excellent grip, then maybe some grip can be traded for more power or weight reduction.
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It has short lap time therefore comparing changes to the build/tune is quick.
Then try running the above tuned car at Nordschleiffe (which I also love to do).
I’ve been using this track for tuning cars that I really like but, like yourself, too lazy to have multiple builds/tunes.
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Depends on the class.
Catalunya is good enough, but are you willing to do a full lap in a D-class car?
COTA West is a fine alternative, then adjust the dampers in a bumpy location like Brands Hatch or Prague.
Watkins Alt Short is great for taking care of the basics. The straight leads to a trail brake which helps perfect the brake balance and the decel diff. The long right hander after the straight is very useful for setting camber with telemetry. And the first 2/3 corners are great for setting ride height - if it wont bottom in those, it wont bottom hardly anywhere else!
A big advantage of the short simple tracks is you can do 3 laps between tweaks to see impact on time - takes too long to do that on other, more complex tracks.
I’ve built a lot of cars that place pretty high up a lot of leaderboards, including Forza GT and A-Class. Not saying that to brag, just showing that I’ve spent a lot of time test-driving and tuning, and have gotten some pretty good results from the following tracks.
My “go-to” track(s), are Sebring Short, Silverstone International, and Catalunya National. Usually one of the first two, since it is easy to be consistent, and the laps are short so it is easy to see if changes have hurt or helped the laptime.
You can make 10 changes, in 10 laps, and take around 10/12mins if the car is responding with what you’re doing setup-change wise (granted you’re running consistently). Whereas if you make 10 changes, therefore complete 10laps at a long track, it’ll take 30/40mins to achieve the same thing.
Plus, with tuning available within lobbies now, you can iron out any kinks you may find relatively easy. But, a lot of this is up to you. But, I would say to pick a short track which you are consistent at, and enjoy driving, and start from there.
Regards,
BM Entice.
A friend said , that the Nur Gp is quite good for set the cars , in C class .
my preferencies was the long road atlanta , but after tried the Nur Gp , i found my set up improved for all tracks .