Nasty motorsport ( tuned car list )

Nasty guide to tuning on second post below :

Forza 6 tunes up for .

Tunes work on wheels and controllers :

Alfa Romeo 155 Q4 S CLASS
Aston Martin vantage V12 S S CLASS
Aston Martin Zagato V12 S CLASS
Aston Martin TF DBS S CLASS
Mazda rx7 c lass , b class , a class .
Skyline r32 c class , b class a class
Sky r34 fast and furious edition , a class.
Skyline r34 normal a class , s class
Nissan R35 GTR BLACK s class (Le Mans full tune 250mph )
Nissan fair lady z fast and furious s class
Subaru 22b c class , b class , a class .
Subaru Impreza WRX STI 05 a class s class
Mercedes 190e a class . B class
Mercedes AMG GT-s s class
#9 Erebus Motorsport E63 AMG V8 super car s class
Dodge Charger Daytona . A , class .
DODGE challenger SRT Hellcat S class
DODGE VIPER GTR ACR 99 s class
Mitsubishi evo 6 GSR . C lass , b class . A class .
Mitsubishi Lancer evo8 MR a class , s class
Toyota supra rz . C class , b class , a class . S class grip , s class power and s class Oval speed tune
Toyota supra fast and furious edition . S class .
Saleen s7 s class
Ferrari F40 s class
Ferrari Enzo s class
Ford Capri #55 turbo s class
Ford escort cosworth a class s
Audi s4 old s class
Audi s4 new s class
Mini old cooper 4x4 d class c class b class s class
Shelby cobra s.class grip , speed and power . Cobra 427 s/c (ring tune s class)
Shelby Daytona s.class grip
BMW M1 pro car s.class
BMW M4 coupe S CLASS
BMW M3 2008 S CLASS
BMW #93 Herve Paulain 3.0 CSL S CLASS
Corvette grand sport c2 FF S.class
Ford GT 2017
Ford GT350R '16 s class
Mc12 s class multiple tunes for dry,grip,speed and rain and Nurburgring s class
Audi R8 v10 5.2 TF s class
Audi R8 team forza s class
Caterham r500 s class
Nsx r TF 2005 a class , s class
Honda NSX-R 2005 s class
Lamborghini huracan LP 610-4 s class
Lamborghini aventador LP700-4 s class
Lamborghini hurrican LP 610-4 Team forza s class Lamborghini Diablo SV S-class
SRT Viper GTS TF s class
Dodge Viper STR10 ACR 08 s class
TVR Sagaris s class
Vauxhall lotus Carlton (speed tune s class)
Volvo 850R a class
Alfa Romeo 195 Q4 b class
Alfa Romeo zagato b class
Bugatti EB110 super sport s class
Cadillac CTS-V coupe s class
Cheverolet Camaro Z/28 s class
Ferrari 1982 #7 France 512 bb/lm s class
Ford cobra R SVT b class
Holden HSV GTS b class
Ford Mustang 2015 GT B class
Vauxhall lotus Carlton b class
VW golf R32 2003 b class
VW corrado VR6 b class
Mazda rx7 c class a class s class (oval , Le Mans , power and grip )
Cadillac XTS limo s class 4x4 fun
Chevrolet Z06 s class
Infinity Q60 concept s class
SRT DODGE VIPER '13 S-class monster !

Ferrari F50’s

Nasty cams (light , fast and high revving)
Nasty turbos (high power , great acceleration)
Nasty sport tire (medium grip good balance )
Nasty race tire (high grip , good acceleration)
Nasty full grip (full grip , light and stable)

Formula one lotus E23 . ( Speed tune low downforce . Grip tune high down force . Nurburgring tune bit of both )

Just search NASTY for an of these tunes

Paint up at NASTY too for some cars

More paint to follow

Feed back always welcome ?

More to come soon ! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

3 Likes

Tire pressure and downforce

I just run round the nurburgring with telematary on then try Tire pressure and downforce

I just run round the nurburgring with telematary on then try and get 32psi out of the tires from lap 2 -5 and then also try and get the temps as balanced as possible across the tire under braking and acceleration if your camber is high you will always get a little peak on the inside but it should settle down in the straights . As long as your getting the best footprint on the road from the tire it should be all good . Especially under braking and accel then your stoping distance and accel should be spot on. If I was good at maths I would use a theory but I like to do it the dirty way on track and feel it as you tune and move things about till you know you can’t get any more out of the car then I am happy :slight_smile: . Usually takes me about 10-15 laps on nurburgring to tune a car properly then it should be good on most tracks !

Also I forgot to mention about downforce . Yes you will get a peak from time to time on the inside of the tyre wall which is fine as this proves we have camber to carry us through the corner with the best footprint , like I said "I tune 90% for the nurburgring " so high downforce in most higher classes is needed thus giving you more pull down on the car and increasing the footprint on the track , which also has to be countered with tire pressure too, as the more downforce and pull down on the car the more the tire will sag out at the sides because of the pull down of the car from downforce this also has to be countered with tire pressure to compensate as the rims will bang out into the track as you hit bumps and dips and jumps . Most people don’t realise this so they increase bump stiffness or springs thinking they are bottoming out but this is not case if you see on telematary when running on the ring that the sprigs are going red at compression points this means you are bottoming out and need higher bump / stiffness or ride height to compensate , but if they stay green but you hear banging and the car joults about this means the rims are hitting the track through the tires as the pressures are to low so need to be higher due to rim ground out this is compensated through pressure adjust .

Like i said not many know this so a good tip for the comunity for free :slight_smile:

It’s will help with the general car demeanour round the ring and bumpy tracks and make it more stable if you get the balances right .

Camber , toe and caster

Camber is used to give the car a greater tire footprint in the corners so higher camber at the front then the rear is also advised as your front wheels do all the turning with steering and camber is great at giving you stability in the corners , lower in the rear as this is mostly where your drive comes from so a higher footprint will give you stability and power transition onto track.
Don’t be afraid to give the camber high settings either some tunes I have go really high .
Toe is something you should only play with when you get to advanced tuning as this can be used to get the twitchiness out of the car and also can be used to give the car higher mechanical turn in by front and rear at opposites or the same to give stability but again use this only when you really need to because this can make the car really unstable if done wrong . Most fast tunes will use a rear adjust on toe .
Caster can be used to get the car to turn in more and less depending on the car and stability. Your camber will also increase with caster so I always try and get this as low as possible until the car gets out of control and turns in loads then back it off just enough to get the best turn in possible but keep stability .

Springs settings .

This is completely dependent on what the car is , weight distribution , drivetrain and car feel . So a front engined rear wheel drive would need higher springs at the front and lower at the rear but a mid engined rear wheel drive would need higher springs at the back and lower at the front . A front wheel drive front engined car would need higher front and lower back . Then you get 4wd but the same principles apply but less of a difference between the both . So what I am saying is it is very dependent on where the weights and power is and goes too . The hardness is very dependent on driver preference although I use a mid to hard setup on most cars .

Rebound and bump

This again will work on the same principles above with how far the sliders are apart from each other but there will be a huge difference on the rebound which will be mid to high on sliders to get stiffness without making the car feel soggy and slow to respond . The bump would be low but the same differences apart as the rebound , although in some cars and tunes people have used a very low rear bump in RWD cars to soften the slide and make the back end sit as much on the road as possible with as much traction on track at all times .

Differential

This is the last thing I normally play with to finalise the tune . It’s a great tool to get the car to turn in / out and keep the back end tight or loose . So low acell will give you less spin before the wheels lock together so lower this is your sliding out when you hit the throttle in the corner not to much as you will not get any pull or push out of the corner and miss the apex . When you get a sweet spot you will get pull from the rear nicely without it spinning round to much . Decell is almost the same principle but reversed so when you swing into a corner and the back end slides out before you hit power then higher this until you get a very small limited amount of slide as you need a little to help with cornering but not to much so when balanced between them both you can get your back end to help you through the corner in both decell and acell it’s also personal preference and how you drive as tuning for the general public is trying to get the best but tuning for yourself then you can get it how you drive . When I tune for hot lapper’s then it has to be different for each one as they all like this slightly different so finding what you like is important.

4WD is the same just on the rear diff as above but the front diff you need enough accel to pull you out of a corner with out loading tracking in the front wheels or you will loose traction and steering and fall out of the corner and overrun . The decell at the front I always leave on 0% so you get no drag on no power or again it will pull you out of the corner . The split in power will depend on weight and power distribution (in an Audi it’s about 40/60 to the rear and on a skyline about 30/70 to the rear )

FWD

That’s the same as the front part of the 4wd setup above.

AERO

This can be used to give the car a balance on cornering and straight line speed in higher classes it’s always full with maybe a little lower on the front and in the lower classes it needs to be set to how the car feels and track specific to get the best balance and best hold on the car . So high front will give you better braking and steering in corners and higher back with give you more traction in the corner and improved stability under braking but this all comes at a cost in staight line speed and acceleration so a balance is critical on this .

Gearing

This should be normally a stock gearbox unless in track specific tuning and trying to get your final gear to be just under the redline in the longest straight on the track your tuning on is always a good general place to be , although in some cars I may tune for a 5 speed box even if it has 6 gears so you lose less in gear changing . There is also the final drive this should be changed depending on where the power is in the car with torque and BHP so higher for a high revving BHP lead engine and lower for a high torquey lower BHP engine.

Again these are only my own preferences and how I tune , everyone will have slightly different opinions on tuning so get what you can from as many people as possible to help you find your own path in tuning

2 Likes

Going to give the 22b a go first. I created a leaderboard spreadsheet so over time I can compare tunes. I think I decided in FM6 for Road Atlanta to be my test track. Will run each car 10 laps, get times and rate it.

Hey jez havent tired a tune of yours since forza 2. Will download a few later thanks :slight_smile:

1 Like

Great thanks guys

Saleen s7 currently 5th on Nurburgring in dry with 6.57.763 :wink:

Dysalot’s Average Joe Tune ratings:
I am basically an “Average Joe” driver. I have been playing the series since the FM2 release and hotlapping since then. With every series I have made spreadsheets to compare my top times. On average I am a top 5% driver, who uses no driving assists, besides a braking line (for consistency), and I use a controller but not simulation steering.
Why Road Atlanta? I wanted a short-ish track, which could get 10 laps in around 15 minutes. I wanted it to have at least one high speed straight, but also a mix of high speed turns and tighter turns. I basically wanted an all-around track that has a little bit of everything

This early into FM6 I don’t have a lot to compare to, and this is the first set of tuned cars that I have looked at.

I rate cars based on several categories:

Speed – How fast is this car around a track?
Drivability – How easy is this car to control?
Consistency – Can I put down the same times lap after lap?

JEZNASTY’s Subaru 22B:
C Class:
Speed – 3/5
Drivability – 4.5/5
Consistency – 4.5/5

Notes: In 10 laps, my fastest clean lap was 1:43.614 around Road Atlanta. An Impreza is never going to be a speed tune, it will be all about grip and consistency, which this car manages. It is a great car on short tracks and online hoppers. What people don’t take into account for online multiplayer, is that consistency is the most important aspect for winning races. Sure having a blazing time around a track is nice, but if you can’t hit that every lap then you are going to get passed up. This C class Impreza will be great for online use, as it is very consistent and easy to drive.

My 10 lap average was 1:45.960, at the end of lap 7 I couldn’t hold the line on the final turn hitting the barrier, spinning around which cost about 1 second on the lap average (10 seconds overall).

B Class:
Speed – 4/5
Drivability – 4.5/5
Consistency – 5/5
Notes: This was an awesome tune. You really start seeing the peak of the 22B at the top of B class. I felt comfortable throwing the car into any turn at almost any speed with nearly no regard. The car was going to handle it gracefully, and easily be kept on the track. In 10 laps, I don’t think I had a dirty lap at all, and I just kept getting faster as I got more and more comfortable.

A Class:
Speed – 4/5
Drivability – 4.5/5
Consistency – 4/5
Notes: This car is a bit wilder than the B class 22B. It is a little harder to get consistent times, as I couldn’t 100% trust it on high speed corner, and it seemed easy to miss the turn in point. That said, the car was quite fast, and probably has more potential as a leaderboard car, because when you get it right, the car can be extremely fast in an out of the corners.

Overall notes: On both the B class and A class Impreza’s I was only able to get to 4th gear even on the long downhill straight. I would have to do testing, but I don’t know that only using 4 gears is the quickest. It seems to me that if the gears were shorter and used 5 gears through 150-155mph it might be a little faster on the straights. Again without looking into the tune and doing specific testing I couldn’t say for certain whether that would be the case.

Also, it should be noted that these Subaru’s would be fast on slightly shorter tighter tracks than Road Atlanta.

JEZNASTY’s Mitsubishi Evo VI:
C Class:
Speed – 4.5/5
Drivability – 4.5/5
Consistency – 4.5/5
Notes: I also spun this car once on the final turn, but other than that, the car was very fast for C class.

B Class:
Speed – 4.5/5
Drivability – 4/5
Consistency – 4/5
Notes: This car is very fast for a B class grip tune. This comes at the cost of consistency, since it is comparatively easy to lose it in the corners (compared to similar AWD cars). That said, since it was an AWD car it is very easy to handle with no assists compared to a powerful RWD car.

A Class:
Speed – 4/5
Drivability – 3.5/5
Consistency – 4/5
Notes: I found this tune to have too much understeer. It still put up a faster time than the A class Impreza 22B, but I suspect that might be partially due to driving the Evo 2nd. It’s not slow, it’s just not was fun to drive as a slightly looser car. It should be noted that this is the “nasty a” tune since there were two A class tunes listed, this was the newer one.

3 Likes

Wow ! Great feedback thanks very much I will always try and improve tunes with feedback like this and re post when completed . A few peopel are saying however that some of these tunes are not up which is annoying as on my tunes it says shared I have tried to unshared and share again but some are still not there ? Maybe it’s just a bug pre-release proper . Again many many thanks . :wink:

F50 a class and s class and skyline r34 a class and s class up now too :slight_smile:

F50 s class paint is up too search nasty :wink: enjoy !

Paint up for Audi s4 tune will be up in a couple of hours just finishing it :slight_smile:

New tunes up for :

Ford Capri #44 turbo s class
Ford escort cosworth a class s class
Supra rz oval tune s class
Supra rz grip tube s class
Audi s4 old s class
Audi s4 new s class

I love the old ford Capri turbo lots of fun !

Op updated too

Enjoy ! :slight_smile:

Op updated

Op updated with new tunes

Good to see you back Jez, i was a mega fan of Nasty

I will check

The supra was my fave :wink:

Great nice to see you . Thanks

New tunes up for :

B class mini 4x4
New tunes for 22b b class and evo 6 GSR b class

More tomorrow !

Been a while since I have had a Nasty tune, looking forward to checking these out

Great to see you ! :slight_smile: thanks

I’ll give a couple a go I suppose… :wink:

Jammy

1 Like

Cool jammy have fun :wink:

Also added :

Toyota supra rz . C class , b class , a class . S class grip , s class power and s class Oval speed tune