Hello can someone help me. I’m happy with the way my tunes go apart from the gearbox. What’s the best way to adjust the final drive or individual gears
You can get away with just using a sport transmission and only have to change the final drive. You want to move the final drive so that when you reach the end of the longest straight you are close to the red line limiter. Obviously you want to give or take the range from the red line in 6th gear if you want to have an overall final drive for every track.
Tuning individual gears.
1st gear is your launch gear
2nd gear is a gear only used for hairpin type corners
3rd gear is for most corners
4th gear is for the rest
5th gear is for the straights
6th is for the longest straight/drafting
When launching you want the 1st gear just long enough to get the car moving and then ready to switch into 2nd gear. Once you make the switch to second you should have very little to no tire slip.
Now you’ve been racing and you are going through the corners. Make sure that the gear you take through the corner isn’t too low that when you accelerate you are barely climbing RPM. I keep a general rule that if an 8k RPM limiter I don’t go below 4k RPM when exiting a corner. You get this right to feel good then tune the car to control the over-steer there might be when accelerating.
Important note!
When you do tune gears don’t look at the gear lines in the graph and compare them with the speeds at the bottom of the box. The 6th gear could show around 210 MPH but might hit the rev limit at 180 MPH.
I hope this will help.
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Some may disagree but the forzatune app at the very least is good for tuning individual gears… That’s all I use it for. It’s good because you get your gears right in the power band and if your shifting too soon you just adjust the final drive and your still in the power band. It’s one of the tuning parts that can benefit from a calculation IMO and experience.
I’ve used the FM5 iPhone app every once in awhile. The challenge I have found is that a lot of the Torque/HorsePower graphs/data in the game are incorrect, thus, requiring to manually acquire which is some what of a challenge. How have you coped with this? Thanks!
I haven’t found it so difficult to be honest, this is what I do.
Save your tune before you start(make sure you’re happy with your build but if engine parts change then redo the whole thing)
I go in test drive at the mile drag. Once started I apply and hold the throttle until I’m on the redline(not the limiter and using analogue speedometer) and then with my other hand bring up telemetry and note the RPM(redline usually is always a rounded figure like 8000 or 8500 or 7000 or 7500 so even if you’re not dead on you can normally tell what it is). Put that figure in the app.
Next is Peak Torque(RPM). I stop and pop it in 3rd/4th gear then accelerate and watch the torque figure go up and make a mental note of the highest figure before it begins to drop. I stop and do the same thing but this time I know what figure is my peak torque so I watch the torque figure until just before it reaches the peak figure then glance at RPM and might do this 2/3 times to reach a conclusion but it doesn’t take much. I might then lower that figure by maybe 100 or 200. I put that figure in the app.
Top speed I just pause my test drive and go to HUD and change units to metric then check top speed in my tuning screen. Pop the figure in and change my HUD setting back to default.
Displacement I just go to my setup manager and check the stats out on my tune(one of the reasons to save the tune before you start). Enter that figure in the app.
That can all be done from that drag strip test drive. All I need now is the drive wheels details. I back out of the test drive and check on my build what the sizes are and enter in the app.
Click forced induction if I’ve stuck on a CS or whatever.
I then just pop in the gear figures and save as the a new tune(same name but with the word ‘geared’ afterwards) that way I can compare tunes.
The gears normally always feel great once I’ve done that.
Hope this helps
Thanks, this was helpful! I knew most of it, my main issue was really getting the fine Torque and Redline rpm values. I usually would use the Old Mulsanne Circuit in the long straight away and did my test per another thread I read awhile ago. I guess I am getting too old and my eyes miss a beat or two, lol. I also try using the recorder function, yet, many times Live has that down.