Ferarri 458 Italia - Tunning help

What’s up fellow tuners.

I just purchased a 458 Italia and have it maxed out at A class to win a few chips and I am having some issues with the lift-throttle whip of the rear tires, especially when I enter late into breaking or have a series of curves one after the other. It is very infuriating because mid-corner the car drives like it’s on ice skates, I lose all traction and am playing Tokyo Drift for that curve. I am trying to sharpen this car so that I can be late into breaking a bit, and exit the corners with 100% traction on the rears for the follow-through after the apex.

I have tuned it to the following specs (I am using the Forzatune 5 app btw)

Weight: – 2970 lbs
%Front – 44%
RWD

Tire Width -
Front - 235mm
Rear - 315mm
%(
Stability - I have it balanced at 100%

Tire Pressure - 28 psi

Camber
Front = -1.8
Rear = -2.4

Toe
Front = 0
Rear = -0.2

Caster = 6.6

Anti-roll
Front = 23.5
Rear = 18.4

Springs
Front = 537.6
Rear = 591.0

Rebound
Front = 6.1
Rear = 7.8

Bump
Front = 4.7
Rear = 5.2

Breaks
Balance = 54%
Force = 85%

Diff
Acceleration
Rear only = 60%

Dceleration
Rear only = 35%

Gear ratios

Final drive = 3.08
1st = 3.93
2nd = 2.61
3rd = 1.96
4th = 1.56
5th = 1.3
6th = 1.12
7th = .98

What do you guys recommend/suggest would be an optimal tune up for this car given it’s symptoms.

Are you losing grib when you lift throttle or when under acceleration? An just to clarify you want oversteer when you lift throttle?

When I lift throttle and downshift into tight turns or a series of turns, I lose traction about 70% of the time under those conditions.

Try raising your decel by 5% at a time until it feels better and also may wanna tune your rear camber to where the outside tire stays the same temperature in the inner/middle/outer parts of the tire around corners. If you have no Areo this would be also good to apply.

Note: When downshifting into corners you should also brake at the same time not fully but enough. Slowing the car down with just the rear tires don’t make much sense. This will also help your transfer of weight.

tapping the accelerator at the same moment you downshift eliminates the cars tendency to get squirrelly. going onto long sweepers i stay off the brake as much as possible. Any kind of heavy slowing or stopping causes weight to transfer. It’s all in how well your car is set up to minimize a reaction to this action.

Shouldnt you be braking as youre downshifting, off the throttle already? Then as you release the brake, apply an even, low pressure on the gas pedal? If youre just lifting off the throttle and downshifting youre gonna throw off the weight of the car and lose traction pretty much regardless of how the car is tuned, with no assists. Someone correct me if im wrong.

Yes, I do brake as I downshift, the problem is when I release the brake and apply throttle into the apex (too little throttle for my liking), I start squirling out of control and basically have to feather the shit out of the throttle in order to make the turn. I am not a fan of that because I don’t have an actual feel for the road/car and am losing precious speed trying to keep the car in control versus taking advantage of bend and accelerating out of it at a high rate of speed.

I’m guessing you’re saying the back end kicks out a little as you turn in (OFF throttle), and then you can’t get on the throttle without just spinning, because the rear tires aren’t hooked up.

Try Baby Cow’s advice about raising decel diff. Maybe that’ll make the car act how you want; it should at least help.

But if you’re still seeing the problem to some extent, try braking a little earlier, and when you turn in, do it ON throttle, but as little throttle as possible. It takes a lot of control, but it makes a huge difference with cars with a rear weight bias. You can’t turn in while all the weight is on the front tires; you have to re-settle the car after hard braking and before turn-in. That tiny bit of throttle makes all the difference. This is why I try to avoid mid-engine cars; I don’t really like having to do this.

Quick fix but not going to be the only thing u need to do turn decel to about 60%

I will put these settings on my car and try it but I think baby cow hit it on the head. There is qiute a bit of bump in there too. Not saying its wrong , just alot more than I use

I have a REALLY good question, how were you able to get the 458 down to A class. S713 is as low as I can get it. I’m going to assume you meant S class and try that.

I got it down to A class at 700. I compromised on the tires, have stage one weight loss. The most important component to upgrade is the fully customizable transmission and suspension system. I would do those two mods and build-up from there…

I would say, if i read right and you’re using that app, dont use the app! It will take some time, trial and error and alot of driving, but learn what the parts do and adjustments do. I used that app for a week or so when 5 came out and had me all screwed up. Somebody for 3 and 4 there was someone that had a huge tuning program that was very in depth and seemed to work really well. But even that wasn’t as helpful as the learning on the track.

Thanks for the input, what do you think I need to focus on or adjust to get the car running right?

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yeah, what he said. If that tune was responsible for the settings on that car then you should delete that app. Quickly. That said, I’ve been busy in the league lobbies and havent had much of a chance to mess with it just yet

Not sure man. I’m pretty new to the tuning so I would be the last to say. And what b I do have knowledge in is more the muscle car drag tune area. But if it’s lift off then maybe alot is in the diff. I always tune my accell really high, just use throttle gently. good to know I can have as much grip out of a turn the road will let me have. the decel, I could be way wrong, but I usually take that down to like 15, maybe 20. Seems like that downshift slowdown is more controlled at least for me. Again, I don’t really know what I am talking about but there’s a ton of cool, helpful dudes on here that do. Goodnluck. I will try my hand at one in the next couple days. Any track specific?

Just a quick look at your settings, I would use Higher Rebound, Lower Bump, and, Lower Diff Accel. In addition, I’d look at the ratio of F/R ARB’s vs Springs. When I get a chance I can test your settings and try emulating the problem you are describing. Then, I can provide further feedback.

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Thanks for the reply. Super noob question though. Why does the ARB vs Spring ratios matter? Do they need to be equal?

No problem being newbie, I was in your shoes somewhat recently. Both the ARBs and Springs matter for (in this case) under/over-steer and for mid-engine cars this could be tricky if you do not have the right range…along with the ride height which could effect rear traction. As far as your question…they do NOT need to be equal, yet, need to work in unison.

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Are you sure its the 458 bro. I’m not even getting recommended tunes down in A class and I completely stripped mine down to default. S713 my friend. I dont see it getting much lower. Its possible I could be losing my mind. A little earlier than I had figured but not out of the question.