Hello everyone I’m not a experienced Forza Tuner but I have made a few that I’m somewhat happy with but still having some major issues with. My fastest Car and Tune right now is for a 1978 King Cobra Mustang. I can run high 8.6’s and low 8.7’s consistently with 8.59 as my best with it at Test Track 1/4 mile. The issue’s I’m having is the car pulls hard left of the line , I actually have this problem in all my drag builds for some reason. I can not figure out what’s causing it or how to fix it. I’m also smoking the hell of of the tires at the start at Sonoma and Hockenheimring drag strips. I drag race with no traction control assists at all and I drag race with Manual with Clutch with game pad. How I launch is I hold down the gas and let go of the clutch when the number 1 comes up at the start. I have massively lowered my rear springs for those two tracks and never see any improvement when it comes to wheel spin off the line. So if someone could please look at my tune and test it out and give me some advice on fixing the wheel spin at those two tracks and to get the car to go straight off the line instead of immediately pulling left off the line. Thanks in advance and here’s my Tune.
I’ll have a look at it this evening. Suspension look pretty typical of a drag setup… The rear aero is probably doing little to help you. It might help on some cars who have traction issues at speed… Never would need it at test track. For hock and Sonoma your going to have to do a completely different gear setup. First going to need to be considerably longer (numerically lower) if you don’t have full roll cage n the car put it in for hock and Sonoma. For instance I have 2 qtr mile builds for the merc coupe my test track version runs one step down on roll cage runs high 9.2xx my Sonoma and hock build runs 8.859 with full cage and completely different gears. Pretty sure I hold my Rpms at 7-8k Rpms at launch and catch them at 2500-3000 rpm. Just low enough where there is minimal wheel spin. I probably lengthened my first gear by 50 clicks or so to keep from blowing the tires off the thing…
As far as pulling left, some cars I jab the steering wheel right just at the beginning to get it straight out of the hole. I’ll take a look at it and see if I can’t remedy it with suspension.
As far as uploading content to YouTube, I’m no expert but I save my game clip to the one drive in upload studio. Then go onto my PC and save it to my PC hardrive the upload to YouTube. Probably a lot simpler way, but that’s how I do it.
Thanks I look forward to hearing from you. I’m already running a Roll Cage and all other upgrades maxed. I’m not running a turbo setup I’m actually using the Race Motor so no turbos or Superchargers. As for the rear spoiler I normally don’t run one on my cars because it usually shows that it actually slows down the 0-60 and 0-100 at the upgrade screen. Except for the King Cobra it shows that it actually makes it quicker that’s why I installed it. I’ll play around with 1st gear some more and try lowering it under 2.00 and see if that helps at Sonoma and Hock. I did find on little trick I didn’t know about before and it has to do with the Camera View when drag racing. It seems that I get better times while I’m in the cockpit vs chase view. The game seems to not go way past the red line in cockpit views when power shifting vs chase view and I am not consistently getting 8.57’s to 8.60 at Test track using cockpit view.
The only thing that I can offer as different information is my personal preference in making the rear springs very soft (on RWD setups). My thinking behind this is I want the car to really suck down on the rear driving tires. Kind of the opposite from what it looks like you are doing with your spring rates and bump/rebound settings.
. I know forza physics and real life physics are two different things, but in my experience most forza drag cars benefit from “more” rear spring. Check out this little excerpt from a real life drag suspension tuning website. Not trying to start a squabble
Rear springs should be a little stiffer for a drag car but many people think that the car should “squat” during the launch so they install softer rear springs on the car to accomplish this. The only cars that should be squatting during the launch are those cars that shock the tires very hard (4-speed cars) and with enough power where the car will overpower the tires. Prostock cars actually squat during launch because they develop enough torque and hit the tires so hard that the squatting helps absorb some of the shock and keeps from overpowering the tires. But, setting up the car to squat is not a function of the springs. It is the position of the Instant Center (IC) that determines how the car squats. The STOCK mounting points for the control arms already cause the car to squat which can unload the tires. So in order to compensate for this squatting the springs need to be stiff to transfer the force to the tires.
If the rear end squats that means that the rear springs/shocks are not pushing the rear tires into the ground. They are just compressing. For the most part you don’t want the rear to squat because you want some resistance from the springs/shocks to transfer the force/weight to the tires.
An example:
Make a coil spring out of a coat hanger and place it on a bathroom scale. Push on the spring. The scale is not going to read much because you are not transferring any force to the scale through the softer spring. Now take the spring out of your car and place it on the scale and do the same thing. The scale will read more pressure because it IS transferring more force through the spring.
Tp - I always use max tire pressure on front for RWD
Max Camber Front, -2.5 Rear…NO Toe
Try Front Rebound around 6 (or higher) to help with launch issue, plus, hold controller knob tight or slightly right. (Credit to Reaper Mech for this learning.) I usually have Rear Bump at 13.
Never use Aero, yet, will check out/test your inputs.
Test Track versus Hockenheim and Sonoma - each track requires a different takeoff methodology (including gearing, especially launch). I am still trying to develop some skills around this. Above statement apply to TT.
I’ll build this up and see what I can learn from it.
wait a sec here PR, i taught no one anything , you just asked the right questions lol as for everything else in the thread seems like you guys have it covered
Reaper…“credit where credit is due”…I have learned a lot from you these past couple of years, and, I have really enjoyed the game due to those learnings. So, YES, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks buddy!
Just put together a build w/o the Rear Wing and ran it with default and first-pass gears. This is what I got prior to making gearing changes to improve the mph at finish line.
1-mile = 21.956 (226 mph), 1/2-mile = 13.463 (200), and, 1/4-mile = 8.559 (166) [I did run the 8.559 pretty consistently.]
I then realized that I set the gears for 4-gears and 5-gears for 1/4 and 1/2 respectively. The mile was not at 6th redline so that gear needs tweaking. I’d prefer only to use 3 gears for the 1/4-mile.
Will change gears around and retest. Also ran a couple of 1/4-miles at Hock & Sonoma…9.39 (first-pass gears) & 9.36 (default gears) respectively.
In addition, I was performing a wheelie so I need to drop my front RH and should do better IMO. Need add’l testing…to bad it takes a long time with the new Multiplayer system versus previous Free Play (FM5).
Edited your post above in quotes. This tune would be for Sonoma probably could go quicker but this will get you close. Ran a 9.043 I save a replay so u could see how I launch. I also built a test track version ran a 9.459 with it. Replay of it also saved. On the tt version I dropped down one roll cage just as quick and u gain considerably n the half w the weight reduction I’ll post the tt version tomorrow. Tired at the moment!
Thanks guys for the help I’ll check out this tips and I’ll see if it helps, I’m sure they will. I also looked at the tutorial you posted a link to XxDyno DonxX. Good stuff except the drop launching, I have a hard time holding a certain rpm through launch since I’m using a game pad. That’s why i just hold the trigger for the gas down and left the clutch out right before I get control of the car at launch. XxDyno DonxX I also looked for your replay’s and couldn’t find them. RelaxedPRKid excuse me for being brain dead but what do you mean by 1st pass gears? Also I have played around with the car using the default spoiler , after market spoiler and no spoiler, the car seems to like the after market spoiler of 1/4 and 1/2 mile especially 1/4 mile but is much faster in the 1 mile with no spoiler or default spoiler. I did figure out how to reduce the wheelie without lowering the ride height just have to raise the front rebound, right now I have it around 3.2 -3.3 on TT on Hock and Sonoma the car doesn’t do a wheelie so I run it at 1 there. Oh yeah RelaxedPRKid when you say max camber on the front do you mean max positive or negative camber on the front? XxDyno DonxX I’ll look for your replays again tomorrow, thanks again guys. I’ve been playing around with setup before I seen your tips and some how I hit 8.49 with it but with a 0-60 of 1.8 and 0-100 of 3.8 but while tweaking I lost what I did rofl. I’ll post my latest setup for everyone to check out tomorrow and see what ya’ll think. I really want to bust them 02 Camaro’s that everyone is using and the Cyclone Trucks butt’s in one of my Mustangs, not sure if the King Cobra is the best one for that but right now it’s my fastest one I have.
If you look up my gamertag it ought to be the latest game clip that comes up. The second replay is the test track run… I think I typo’d on the last post it runs a 8.458 at test track. It’s full throttle at test track grab the gas on 2.
Here’s my latest tweak for Sonoma and Hock not as fast as yours but that’s probably because I do a full throttle launch and get more wheel spin, but still not to bad. It will do 9.142 at Hock and 9.109 at Sonoma. Here’s the Videos as you can see and hear I do full throttle launches. Now time to work on TT and see if I can get it down in to the 8.4’s or 8.3’s
For first-pass, I just meant that I put something together really quickly, so, I need to work on the gears to improve the launch and performance throughout the 1/4, 1/2, and mile.
As far as Camber, I meant POSITIVE.
On your Spoiler comment, if it work for you, that should be fine. I’d prefer w/o it. I’ve tested such in the past.
When I get back into Multiplayer in the next couple of days I will record one of my runs for you.
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Yea those times r pretty good for full throttle… When I set up cars w the5.9l motor@ test track I always start with these gears. They’ll get u reAlly close 90% of the time. Adjust the final to where your in the red n 3 gear at the end of the quarter.
Final 2.73
First 3.73
2nd 2.19
3rd 1.56
4th 1.27 for half
