Nearly every single one I’ve checked mid-turn have shown the outside hotter than the inside. This is incorrect. Inside should always be the hottest with at most a 15 degree spread between the 3 ( Ideally 10 or less ). Stock suspension, sport, race adjustable. All of them. Just not enough negative camber. I know the adjustable stuff is there for us to play with and dial in, but the stock and sport should be dialed in a bit more for those players who don’t want to mess with tuning.
Now, suspension damping. By my math you’re running 62% bump damping. This is too soft for road racing and is the cause of most of the understeer complaints that I see. Should kick this up a bit closer to 75%, stiffen the ARBs a few ticks, and lower the ride height. Even the offroad and rally tunes are too soft. The bump damping should be like 50% of the rebound. Idk why you’re tuning these defaults so soft, but it’s not helping anyone.
Excellent observation…HokieHoshi has a great tuning guide on utube… but I agree… aggressive driving in A class and above benefits my driving style better with your setting. Cheers
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I’d like to add that ARB stiffness is just weird. I just make minor adjustments to the rear and I’ll almost instantly lose traction or go crazy understeer depending on which way I go. I set them both to 1 and the car settles. Behaves similar to what a real car does. I set them both to 5, behaves as I’d expect. I set them both to 10, same deal. I set the rear to 1 tick above when both are set to the same number initially and traction goes out the window. If I set them both to an even number, rwd traction is fine. Doesn’t matter how high that number is. If I stagger them in any way, it’s drift time or I’m heading toward the wall in turns. This is not how they work IRL lol. If I set the rear super stiff and the front super soft, then it’d be drift time. If I set the front 1 tick softer than the rear, traction goes out the window. What gives? I’m not talking a full point here, I’m talking ticks. 10ths. It’s like they’re adjusting at an exponential rate. The adjustable stuff just doesn’t feel right. Idk that it ever has, but y’all touted some pretty major work on the handling model and I’m just not feeling it. Maybe in the tires, but that’s about it.
Like this 2008 M3 I have here. I cannot get it to settle. Wider tires don’t fix the loss of rear grip. Stiffer rear suspension doesn’t fix it. Softer rear suspension doesn’t fix it. Softer rear ARB doesn’t fix it. Camber doesn’t fix it. Rear wing doesn’t fix it. How do I get this car to stop losing rear grip? I happen to own a E92 M3 and it, in no way, behaves as this one does in game. No matter what I do, it just wants to throw the rear end out. I swear it’s broken.
Feels like everything I would do to a car IRL I do the exact opposite in this game. Tuning just makes no sense here.
Set the front ARB to 1.2 and the rear to 1 and this M3 feels closer to how it should. I set them anywhere above 10 and it’s understeer grip loss city. Just doesn’t compute. We don’t even know what units the ARBs are using. I would assume it’s mm, but no real idea. I set them to what the Hotchkis M3 set would be and they feel close, but idk. I really have no clue what you’re doing with the suspension model. It’s all weird and seems to have little relation to what we actually deal with IRL. I hope this changes in the future cos it’s annoying to say the least.
So. It turns out that weight reduction upgrades are pretty much a no go for this 2008 M3. The instant I apply any of them, I lose rear grip. Aero doesn’t help it. Nothing does. Not sure what this is about, but might be worth looking into.
edit: I think I got it. Springs seem to just be too stiff. Making the car float more or less. Bouncing off the road.
edit 2: yeah. Turned the spring rates almost all the way down and this M3 feels REAL nice. I’ve only tested it with semi slicks so far, but it’s a heck of a lot better. I know this isn’t correct ( spring rates are just north of 300lbs/in ), but this solves my biggest issues with it so far. I also set the alignment to what an actual E92 M3 would be and it’s helped a good bit too. Tempted to try setting the ARBs to that of the Hotchkis set again since your defaults are REALLY close to what they are.
Definitely have an issue with springs in this car. Idk if it affects others, but this one is 100% weird.
So. I think y’all might have goofed up the springs. I’m getting consistently better lap times by dropping spring rates a good 200lbs in just about every car I’ve tested.
So this AMG GT Black Series - Alignment is a bit too aggressive. I shave off 1 degree on front and lap times instantly improve. Takes the camber settings to -2f / -1r.
So I’ve started testing this 2008 M3 again, and this time I’m going through the parts one by one until my lap times suffer. So far it’s been the sport and adjustable ARB. I also noticed that the sport and race suspension made this car slower. One thing that improved my lap time right off with nothing installed was bumping the tire pressure to what BMW recommends IRL ( 36f / 38r ).
The fun part here is that I took the adjustable ARB settings down to 1 front and rear and got a better lap time than the default. Weird right? I thought so too. One thing I’ve noticed is that over small hills and such my rear end loses traction with both the sport and race ARBs installed. There’s a small hill just before the stands in Horizon Mexico Circuit that is the perfect spot to test this. Stock ARB, or really soft adjustable ARB and my rear sticks to the road. Sport or your default ARB settings and it’ll lose traction.
Idk if you’re setting these defaults by hand or if you’ve got some kind of algorithm, but if it’s the former plz teach them how to suspension and if it’s the latter, you need a new algo.
My findings so far are that, at least with this M3, the adjustable defaults are quite far off the map. Even with adjustable aero installed.
Edit: Adjustable ARB defaults dropped 10 pts = near 1/2 second off my lap time.
This is about setting these cars up so that they’re usable by all. A great base tune. I have a theory that one of the main reasons that PvP is such a problem is that a great portion of them are using the defaults, or they’re using tunes by people who have no business tuning suspension. If they were provided with good defaults, they might be able to control their cars more in PvP. PvP will be better. As it stands, these defaults are near useless. They’re slow and not competitive at all. I have pretty limited knowledge of suspension and my tunes are considerably better than the defaults. We need better base tunes.
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Also. Why are all the race diffs backwards? No one has ever run lower accel than decel in RWD. Ever. Pretty much every LSD I’ve installed in my cars IRL have been at least 60% lock ( accel ). The defaults for this M3 are like 25% accel and 43% decel. Wut? No wonder everything understeers.
um are you sure the inside should always be the hottest? centripetal force would like it disagree. While you are turning right, your outside tyres(front left turning wheel especially) are the hottest bc the car is leaning out of the corner while having most of the weight transfer front. Forza Horizon tuning is always very arcade like. It is just values, for awd cars just put a front splitter then run full aero and make the rear as soft as possible while having a 60% rear bias completely resolves the understeering issues most awd car in the game have. And the e9x M3 in the game have absurd amount of oversteering or same thing can be said with every M car in the game. Adding more rear biased aerodynamics and making the rear ARB softer while making the diff at 40-50% acc is good enough for it to not oversteer. It fustrating that every rwd car in this game just wants to spin and tuning is very inaccurate
Based on real world experience, yeah. Inside should always be the hottest. Ideally they should be even, but you never want the inside too much cooler than the outside and vice versa. It’s always better for the middle and inside to be the hottest.
Correct. I’m talking about the heat spread.
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