Over the last 4-5 months I’ve been tuning quite a lot and I’m quite confident now in my ability to tune a car. I was tuning a power Ford GT for S-class. I was tuning it for a long time. Like I spent hours on it. Making things softer, making them harder, just messing with it over and over to learn and trying to get it perfect. I was really happy with the results. Started thinking I’m some kind of tuning god. I remembered I had HMR Motorhead’s handing Ford GT unlocked, ‘cos’ he put it on ‘ere. I took that handling Ford GT and put my power build on it and to my huge disappointment it was better than the tune I’d spent hours on. I really was disappointed, lol. His tune wasn’t much faster, maybe .2 but it did feel a little better too. Comparing my tune to Motorhead’s there really wasn’t much difference. The ARBs and springs were very close as was the dif’. The only really notable difference was Mortorhead had adjusted the camber and his rebound damping is quite different. I never change the tire pressures, I never touch camber, toe or caster. I leave camber at -0.5 front and back, toe 0.0 front and back and caster at 5.0. Bump damping I usually just slam and rebound I usually put at 10.0 front and back. My question is do these tuneable parts I don’t give much attention to really matter? I’ve tried messing with them but never making the car noticeably better, maybe even making it worse. Like I said, I can make cars good enough that they can run within a few tenths of whatever anybody else can make but I hate knowing people have a better car than me, lol. The best tunes I’ve ever driven, by a considerable margin, are those bought off of ONR Azzyg’s SF. His cars don’t really feel like the tunes from other respected tuners in the game. It seems most people make their tuning setups a little softer. Maybe raising the ride height a little and softening the suspension some, with minimum bump damping. It’s like he doesn’t just slam the bump damping, like he makes them harder and lower but they’re unbelievable accurate, just like a race car. When I try to tune like this it just doesn’t work. I can always make the car faster by slamming the bump and making the car softer. It gets frustrating.
YES! Camber is very important, it effects how much your contact patch is on the ground in/through corners. Your setting would be very low for camber as many have found that -3.0 or more are still quite acceptable numbers. Caster effect camber and straigh line stability, and toe does the same. If tuned correctly you shouldn’t even have to touch toe in most cases tho as toe just masks other problems.
Thank you for the response. Don’t get me wrong, I do know what these things do it’s just whenever I mess with them it doesn’t make the car faster. I’ve received unlocked tunes from some of the fastest and most respected tuners in the game and they didn’t touch the camber, toe and caster. Tuning myself I just kind of copied these guys while learning to feel things that needed correcting, like under steer, so that I can tune myself without having to copy. Maybe when it comes to caster and damping I just haven’t acquired the feel to know if my changes are making any difference.
dampening is tough to learn but required for fine tuning. Caster is pretty easy to feel the difference. Have you tried one of your tunes that feels good. then do max and min caster just to feel the difference. or may be better to do it with a tune you know well if you have that option, something you have driven quite a bit.
It really comes down to a few things. The car, the driver and the track. Some tracks you’ll want to tune the car to not crash over bumps. Sometimes your driving style calls for a different method and sometimes the car has its own specific traits.
As for each part of the setup - yes it can be critical. If you don’t change the alignment you may be wasting potential there. Also leaving stock rear toe at what - -0.5? - is a bit ugh 
If you drive a track with somewhat equal left and right sections and you notice the outsides of the tyres burning up more than the insides, then you need more camber. If it scrubs a bit on turn in or if it snaps sometimes on exit and then the telemetry shows the aforementioned then camber it up a click or two depending on the extent (and end of the car)
It takes years to learn this. I started as a noob on FM3 for instance and I’m still learning. That camber thing I only recently picked up on and now sometimes my camber can be super aggressive! It takes time to take on all the scenarios, all the car and track combos and working out what needs to be done or fixed. That’s what does it for you in the end, just the experience. Just play about with cars on tracks. Have fun and experiment 
I used to start with a base setup where i put 0.8/0.6 camber no toe and 6.0 caster. bump 2 rebound 10, gave me a good point from where i could tweak further, for ex. bump 1.5/rebound 11 or bump 1 and rebound 11.5 etc. If the bump is too low or min. i tried using a higher caster to make the car more responsive and if the bump is higher then i went with lower caster but its not like a rule, just tweaks i made by feel. Also most of my cars are B class and don’t have good experience in higher classes.
You are a very fast driver so you have an advantage, thats pushing the cars to their limits and reveal any small flaws that might exist in the tune. Just need to spend more time in it, 4-5 months tuning is not much in this game so keep at it mate. For me the key is to translate the ‘feel’ of the car in tuning adjustments.
@Dsquared… These guys are right about the time thing…it can get frustrating, and it can be rewarding as well. Also I’ve found the Camber setting to be important in the fine tuning as little as a tenth (.1) Ex) -0.9 to 1.0 Another thing…tire pressures can be that sensitive as well; a .5 lb can help fine tune the grip level at different tracks. Ex) 80 deg track might be 25.5 lbs and 89 deg track might be 26.0
I’ve found thru asking a lot of questions (and I’m still asking) that driving style is something to be accounted for when using someone else’s tune. It can make a difference in how a car handles for YOU, but it may give you a point of view to look at your tune. Again, it then comes back to spending the time to try stuff.
ya know, when ever I start to feel REALLY competent in tuning, I try buying a couple tunes and driving them, then I look at the leaderboard and see how my times compare to those. Typically, I get a healthy dose of humility between the two of those.
It sounds to me like you may have an excellent feel for ARB’s, Spring rates, and aero settings. If you can tie in setting the alignment and dampening settings (which may not end up being very different that what you’ve been using), you may end up pretty unstoppable!
Keep at it, it takes a TON of time to truly understand tuning cars to perform at their best.
Good Luck!
There’s a line between having fun and feeling like work. I think you could spend days tuning a car and still feel like it needs work. I literally did work on my power Murcielago over 2 or 3 days. I messed with the build over and over and i know i found a build that nobody else has ever made and I’m almost certain it’s the fastest possible build for power tracks. It’s my favourite car. Even with all this work i know it’s not perfect but it got to the point where i was tired of working on it. I want to be the best but it requires so much dedication it’s not even fun anymore. I even think tuning can impact negatively on my driving. I’m driving a car looking for problems rather than trying to drive as fast as i can 
What difference should i expect to feel comparing rebound damping 5.0 front and back with rebound damping 10.0 front and back? I was tuning a Shelby GT500 '10 yesterday on Laguna. At first i did have the rebound 10.0 front and back but i found that the car didn’t turn in as sharply as i wanted. I tried rebound 7.0 front with 8.0 rear and the car did seem to turn in better and seemed to be a bit faster but i don’t know if it was all just in my head.