trouble with pedals and braking

Miscellaneous Hardware & Peripherals
1

Hi everyone! First post :smiley:

I play casually and am having trouble with my braking using a wheel and pedal set. I had this same problem with the older Microsoft wheel and pedals on the 360, and am now using the Thrustmaster TX 458 on the One.

Basically I can’t consistently feel where my foot is and it makes braking consistently difficult. I would like to be able to hit the brakes at 90% (or thereabout) as this seems to be the most efficient, i.e. 100% causes the wheels to lock and skid, and anything less is just less. I find myself rewinding in career mode a lot because I either hit the brakes too hard and skidded off the end of the track, or not hard enough and ran off the track anyway :stuck_out_tongue:

Is there a trick? Is it just muscle memory learned over time? Everything else seems to have feedback, the steering is obvious, too much accelerator can cause the rear end to break free with feedback from the wheel, etc. It just seems like the pedals should have a increased resistance to pedal travel like a real car would, but they don’t - so it’s just as easy to go to 10% as it is to go to 100%. I’m using my left foot for braking, whereas I drive in real-life using my right foot - so it’s possible that my left foot is just an uncoordinated idiot.

Any tips or feedback are appreciated - thanks!

P.s. do the T500RS pedals feel any different? Do more high end pedals offer a different feel?

1 Like
2

I had this issue too. Adjust your brake bias in your brake settings. Unreal how much it helps.

3

As suggested, adjust bias to whatever feels good for you. Stop using your left foot.
G’luck

4

The Thrustmaster isn’t very fancy at all so you’re just going to have to memorize your foot braking based on how far down your foot goes, since there’s no brake pedal resistance.

On the bottom right of the screen, in the HUD, are two vertical bars. The red bar increases when you use the brakes, so watch how much it increases to see how much you’re actually pushing the brake pedal.

Also, try putting on race brakes and reducing the braking force in the tuning setup.

And yes you should try braking with your right foot to see how it is.

5

Thanks, I’ll give the settings and right foot a shot.

Are there better pedals out there? What is better about them? I’d be willing to upgrade if it made a difference.

6

Hey Hamiltonia,

I’m having a horrible time trying to get the correct feeling of braking with my Thrustmaster TX 458 on my Xbox One and Forza 5. I’m a diehard left foot brake person for either competitive or casual racing, being able to drag the brake to get the load transfer for front end bite is essential for quick lap times. I found the same thing, wasn’t getting drag at all and shooting off corners to just getting lock ups, it was so frustrating and I was like holy crap when did I get THIS bad at driving…lol

Things that I know;

  1. There seems to be larger than expected area before my pedal engages, if you change your HUD view and watch when you start pressing slowly on the pedal to when it starts registering on the HUD. I tried messing with the deadzone but it doesn’t seem to change. This is certainly screwing with my muscle memory as I have spent many hours using Logitech G25/27 and Fanatec Club Sport pedals in PC racing games.
  2. Know that these pedals are ONLY positional and NOT pressure measured.

I’m still a noob to Forza 5 and when I get more time I hope to explore more with settings, dead zone and bias and see if I can find a sweet spot for me but I just wanted to say YOU ARE NOT ALONE! lol

7

With the set that comes with the wheel, it’s more or less learning where the optimum breaking range is. From what I’ve been seeing, about 80% depressed seems to do the trick. It’s hard to judge where that is sometimes and hopefully the pedal set that is being released soon (I hope) is a bit better at breaking. Still, I think these pedals are a huge step up from the MS pedals that came with the WRW.

8

I switched to right foot braking and it made a huge difference, not perfect but definitely an improvement. I don’t know why I feel the need to use my left foot when racing; I certainly don’t have that problem when driving in RL.

I checked into the clubsport pedals, they look amazing. I hope Fanatec comes out with a xbone version of their wheel - I would it up in a second.

9

Can anyone help me?

My problem is different. I’m using the TX Thrustmaster 458 Italia Edition with the stock pedals.

My problem is that while the gas goes to 100% when fully pressed, the break pedal only goes to 34% in F6, and 33% in F5. It has the effect of basically not breaking at all. Even if I put the car up to 20 MPH and then go to neutral gear and hit the breaks, even tough the red breaking bar in the hud shows 30ish% breaking the game does not register any breaking at all and the car just coasts along as if nothing is being pressed at all. The car should come to a stop if I press the brakes even a little. It should eventually stop.

I have tried rebooted the console, and have already updated the firmware on the wheel. It seems to be a deadzone / calibration issue with the break pedal. I don’t think it’s game or console related since it’s happening in both F6 and F5. FYI, I can confirm that with the telemetry HUD turned on that a full press of the pedal results in only 34% (F6) and 33% (F5).

Please help!

10

  1. This is what I would do, make sure you go to Advanced setting and select default settings and save just in case you messed up the deadzone.

  2. This is all from Thrustmaster’s FAQ;
    Completely resetting the Xbox One console’s USB ports
    (in order to fix issues such as failed self-calibration, wheel not recognized,
    some missing Force Feedback effects, conflict with the gamepad, etc.)

  • The USB ports on the Xbox One are always On (even when the console is Off)
  • To completely reset the console’s USB ports:
  • Power off the console.
  • Disconnect the power cable from the back of the console
    (the LED on the console’s power supply turns ORANGE).
  • Leave the wheel connected to the console.
  • Reconnect the power cable to the back of the console
    (the LED on the console’s power supply turns WHITE).
  • Power the console back on using the XBOX button located on the console
    (do not use the XBOX button on the gamepad controller).
  • Start the game using the wheel, without ever powering on the gamepad controller.

  1. When you fire up your Xbox and the wheel finishes it’s calibration, you must fully depress the each pedal like 3 times to calibrate the pedals to the wheel since there is NO auto calibration for pedals.

  2. My personal feeling is the stock pedals are crap, it’s entirely possible the breaking gear has jumped a tooth or even cracked, if the pedals are not mounted to a solid surface the base can flex with a very heavy foot. You should be able to confirm this by hooking your wheel & pedals back up to a PC and looking at the calibration scale (0 to 100), if it works fine on the PC then its either resetting the USB port on the Xbox, a gamepad conflict or layout/deadzone setting were mucked up.

*** For another $100-ish, you can get the Thrustmaster T3PA 3-Pedal Wide Pedal Set Add-On for your wheel and you will enjoy your racing experience much much more!!! The conical rubber on the brake pedal is a MUCH better sensation!!