THANKS…I’ve came back to your post multiple times in order to re-read & study it!
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I’m sorry it’s mostly babbling. I cant say that I am “right” about my thoughts on the camber and whatnot. It just seems logical as far as strict ingredients thinking wheel spin and acceleration. But this is the Forza world, lol. Hopefully at least some of it makes sense or is accurate!
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What you’re saying about camber definitely works on FM4, so I would think that it’d work on FM6.
The best thing a circuit tuner can do is learn how to also tune for drag and drift. It gives you a considerably better understanding of how each tuning option affects the car.
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Sorry for the delayed response, yet, I was on a trip and just got back (so no access to my Box). I’ll give the setup a shot as well since I am certainly interested in this topic along with the learnings. Will start a tune from scratch with your 1st build, then test the several items of feedback/settings (by FOOT, Mick, Yakov & Zepp) as well.
PRKid
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*** One more thing, I just recalled a thread on FM5 around the Z06 which we might be able to get some pointers as well. I’ll search the Tuners area of FM5.
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OK, did a quick test and found out that my biggest challenge was that of throttle control. I ran another 3 laps or so to get use to the car’s tendency of wheel spin at this class, and managed a PB…which I ran at Cat GP (similar to FOOT). I am pretty much an average driver yet, did manage 1:53.880 (PB) and had a couple of dirty laps in the 52’s and the car felt pretty good. Yet, the important thing, I believe the car is very manageable w/o TCS an the wheel spin can be “somewhat” minimized and/or controlled.
As far as the build goes, I used the Sport Tranny to minimize PI impact, yet, be able to control my gearing to some extent. Stats: S800, 656 HP / 573 LB-FT, 2638 lbs (54%), 8.0/6.4/8.9/6.2, rest of upgrades similar to what you described above.
I set the Final Drive to 3.22, running 4 gears at that track. I had camber even at -1.7, Toe +0.1/-0.3, ARBs 10/14, Reb/Bump 8.5/9.8, 4.0/2.5, Aero 85/75, and Diff at 65/15. For the springs I actually left the springs-to-weight ratio the same (default) and did a +90/-90 F/R. RH @ +3 & +4 clicks.
This basically follows suit to your settings process on OP, with the added toe described by FOOT, and, softer ARBs as mentioned by Mick. Yet, a couple of other settings that I did differently, especially the springs.
PRKid
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OK, it’s shared…remember, you still need to make sure to exercise good throttle control. What has helped me is that recently I ran several muscle cars in A-class, so, was starting to get use to turning with high power cars.
File = S800, or search my GT. Hope you get along well per your driving style. Please let me know if it fits your style. Feedback (good and/or for improvements) always appreciated!
PRKid
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I’m going to be running some public lobby races in S-Class today using some of your setups/tunes. Specifically the 02 Vette we’ve been talking about, the Ferrari F40, 2008 Aston Martin Tm Forza DBS, & Ford Falcon V8 Supercar; I will give feedback… detailed feedback.
Great! Hope you can enjoy them and get along with the tunes per your driving style.
PRKid
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Without a doubt… I will give you feed back. I played around with the tune & made mine better but as you say about your tune… throttle control must be exercised at all times.
If you’re having trouble putting power down, you don’t ever want your rear anti-roll bar to be stiffer than the front.
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Would ARB settings similar to the default ARB settings utilized with the no kidding race cars (such as the Corvette C7.R) be the type of stiffness/softness one should be looking for when setting ARB numbers for non-dedicated race cars? Essentially… my thinking is when race handling upgrades are added to the street car you are now essentially driving a dedicated race car?
I feel ARB’s stiffness/softness is like many other things in the game, based on personal preference. I personally like soft ARB’s paired with stiff springs, especially in American Muscle cars. I have even ran no ARB’s and Extremely stiff springs with success.
My thought process when tuning ARB’s and Springs:
- Car understeers on entry/exit= adjust front spring
2)Car oversteers on entry/exit= adjust rear spring - Understeer mid turn= adjust front ARB
- Oversteer mid turn= adjust rear ARB
Then once I get the springs and ARB’s where the car feels best, I then adjust the stiffness/softness to my style, while keeping the same ratio between them.
I also look at telemetry, but the above is the basic thoughts running through my head as I am test driving a car. Like I have said before I am a noob here, so my tactics may be wrong, but it works for me lol.
In a word, no. Race upgraded != race car. Really all you have is weight loss, chassis stiffening and adjustability.
I don’t stop by very often anymore but from someone that doesn’t play or can’t test it it’s oversteering likely because your rear springs are too soft. I know that sounds completely wrong but when they get too soft they produce roll oversteer. Long story short you’re asking one tire to do all the work at some point in the corner (outside rear). You can reach this point in any car when you go too extreme or even too soft overall to where it…ummm overleans? That isn’t a word but we will pretend it is today.
Try stiffening the rear springs.
General rule no spring setting should be over 1/2 or under 1/3 of the area of the bar itself.
If this is your bar
I------------------------------------------------------I
Consider the between the S’s the safe zone for spring settings
I-------------S_______S-------------------------------I
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Great point W0RM, and, easy to understand. Is there a similar concept on the ARBs regarding the “bar zone”? Thanks for your insights.
PRKid
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There is not. Some cars 1/1 work (muscle in previous games were always under 10). You could see 40/40 working, you could see the old 1/40 from FM2 and FM3 work, and then in the Mini on FM5 you’d see like 37/5. Could also be completely normal looking.
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Thanks W0RM! On FM5, the feedback received from may experienced tuners was that of starting at the default and reducing both by about 5, then, tweak as required. In addition, several inputs on not to go under 10. However, I have found myself many times at 1/40 and on the reverse I have set to 36/1. So, very car/class/track dependent is what I’ve found.
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I have not read every post in this thread, so…
For me when getting rid of tire spin i adjust tire width, go soft on the front and rear bump and sometimes a softer suspension as long as the telemetry data shows the offset at .80 max for the most part.
It has worked well for me.
I normally dont use the last 2 tranny upgrades between E and A class builds. I just go one up from stock unless the car has lots of wheel spin then I’ll get the first one that allows for rear gear changes and make it longer.