Whenever I set difficulty to full simulation, the game seemingly wants to brake down my transmission at random during the race, despite putting not so much as a scratch on my car, and hitting nothing. I play using manual gears and use an H-pattern shifter(or sometimes paddles shifters on my wheel), and I swear not a race goes by where I finish without the car struggling to change gears and choking during shifting. Why is this? Is this a bug?
Forza’s transmission model is quite silly, manual with clutch in no way simulates an actual gearbox at all and is simply a difficulty layer were you need to press the clutch at the same time as you change gear, on a gamepad the buttons can be pressed at the same time with no issue. On a wheel with analog clutch it has to be 100% disengaged in order to avoid any damage.
Best solutuon is to lower the outside deadzone on the clutch axis so you hit that 100% much faster and avoid damage, I fing 50-60 outer DZ to work well, some will go much lower
If your using auto clutch on a wheel setting you need to make sure you bind the clutch to the correct button (usually A button) if it is not then you will damage the gearbox. Also auto clutch features do not work for H-pattern shifting, only paddle shifting
So what you guys are saying, is that if I shift gears using my H-Pattern, and the in-game setting is set to Manual only(not manual with clutch), I will damage the transmission? For the record, I have a three pedal set(HE Ultimates) with a clutch. I just don’t particularly care to use it for this game, but the game’s clutch function is unbinded. If I were to change the game’s setting to “Manual with Clutch” and actually use my clutch pedal, would that decrease the odds of transmission damage?
No, if the ingame setting is set to manual you can’t damage the gearbox by changing gears (h pattern or paddle shifting). Gearbox damage from shifting can only happen on manual with clutch. Sorry for the confusion, when you said auto clutch we assumed you were talking about a wheel feature and not the ingame manual setting.
Thanks for the clarification buddy, and I apologize for the confusion. Yes I meant in-game "manual’/“manual w/clutch” settings.
Hmmm…that’s weird. If that’s the case, then it must something else that is damaged other than the transmission. When driving, I get what appears to be some sort of struggle from the car to maintain full power. The engine rev sound starts to cutoff and goes in and out, and gets worse and as I continue driving. Like I mentioned before, the first couple laps the car’s fine, then a few laps later it starts to exhibit this behavior described above. Which part of the car is damaged that causes the engine power to struggle and go in and out like this?
Manual with no clutch is basically sequential shifting. Using an H pattern shifter like that really makes no sense. When using the paddle shifters, you should not be getting any damage unless your downshifting far too quickly and not rev matching properly. I use that in the race cars and rarely have any damage.
So what happens most often in real engines when you over-rev, even for an instant, is that some valves don’t close fast enough, and they get hit by the piston going up. If they get hit, they bend and don’t seal, and you lose lots of power from that cylinder. This is true for interference engines.
There are other modes of failure, but I don’t know if Forza models any of them accurately, or just gives you a generic loss of power. What’s important, though, is that you can lose power permanently if you over-rev even for an instant.
Hahaha, forza does not model anything, it is not a reality simulation game, it only causes failure induction according to the damage by the number of times the motor spin has been cut by the excess spin. If it was to model, the first thing would be to slow the car when the player turns the steering wheel too much leaving a black rubber trail on the race track.
Also, check out the telemetry while on-track, if you haven’t yet, by pressing down on the d-pad and then right d-pad 6 times. This will give you a real-time indication of what damage you are doing to specific parts of the car.
It is also possible that your acceleration pedal is with the potentiometers dirty, notice if the acceleration indicator bar is jumping or in the telemetry the acceleration value is not floating, this problem is common in the G920. Nothing that a WD20 lubricant will not solve. You have videos on YouTube to solve the problem.