I’ve never had lag and had to back my FFB down to 60% as it was so strong. I see you are using sim steering,try normal and see if anything feels better.
Normal steering does have good and bad points but if there was no lag it wouldn’t help at all, simulation steering would feel way better . Right now it feels very twitchy and nervous and indirect.
There is a disconnect happening somewhere that makes diving on the limit wit sim steering uncomfortable, not impossible but very unnatural. If any of you have a PC you should try some of the sims on there ( assetto corsa, live for speed etc), get a feel for how the car behaves on the limit and then compare it to forza. My experience with forza is far from direct and responsive.
Are you using a USB extender cable? You’ve got me worrying as I’ve hardly used mine yet. I was prepared for the possibility of it frying, but had only heard reasonably positive things about it’s performance with the game.
I wouldn’t worry Mick, Blue is literally the only person I have seen complain about lag while using the TX. I have not once had any input lag while using it, it works perfectly, has good force feedback, its very responsive even while I am drifting.
Blue, I have played many pc sims over the years, both with and without a wheel. Iracing, Rfactor, Project cars, Assetto Corsa are among the racing titles I own for the PC.
I got my TX two days ago, very different experience to the OP, I think it`s great.
It replaced a CSR with Elite pedals for both X1 and PC, and tbh. I like the TX better already, which is almost irritating since there is quite a difference in price.
No input lag at all for me, force feedback is strong (dialed it down to 50% on Forza). I even like the stock rim, it looks cheap and doesnt have fancy materials like the CSR, but it actually feels more robust imo. Id also like to say I am freaking glad the TX does not have any on-wheel settings except for DOR. Setting up the Fanatec used to be a nightmare trying to balance wheel and game settings.
One point from the OP I agree with though, the force feedback Forza 5 gives could be better.
Its alright, a slight improvement from Forza 4, but e.g. Assetto Corsa feels a lot more alive and gives the user options to make more detailed adjustments like e.g. curb strength. Its also a pitty Turn10 doesn`t code the appropriate steering angles onto the cars, resulting in users having to change it manually all the time.
Anyway, in the end I agree with those saying there is nothing as fun as the Forza 5 + TX combi.
im not using a USB extender at all WearyMick, i have one other lead to chase to see if it helps and thats my TV. it was mentioned before that the HDMI and VGA inputs are different and using HDMI for both my xboxes so if i either change the cables or upgrade my TV and see how that goes. but so far in my experience Forza 5 doesnt feel like its really improved much at all over 4, but that could be just the wheel.
Sounds like a good lead Blue.
I think VGA usually runs in “filter free” mode, on other inputs you should make sure your TV is in its gaming mode (with Samsung its even better to use PC mode, but a bit tricky to set up).
The difference in lag between gaming-mode and normal TV mode is often quite massive.
It could definitely be your tv creating the input lag, we have two xbox one’s set up in our lounge room side by side (I live with someone who likes to play as much as I do), his tv is a no name brand zero post processing 32’’ 720p tv, whereas I have a samsung 40" series 6 smart tv which seems to want to post process the air around it, even with game mode on, and disabling any processing features I still get a noticeable amount of input lag, with whatever I’m doing on the xbox, it just tries too hard to improve the hdmi experience when I don’t want it to. It’s annoying only sometimes really, I’ve kind of gotten used to it a bit, things that involve twitch game play kind of sucks though.
Its especially noticeable when going between the two tv’s, though I prefer to deal with the input lag since the other tv’s display quality is dismal. Just from feel I would guess input lag is anywhere between 15-30ms.
my TV is a low end brand, 32" 1080p it doesnt have a gaming mode and i cant find any procesing settings in it either. ill try it out with a hdmi-vga cable first (cheap and easy option) and if i still have the problem i might see about upgrading to a proper gaming monitor.
@ xx Sneeky
Just to ask, did you try the “PC” mode on your Samsung?
I can`t quite remember how you activate it (bit tricky), but both my previous Samsungs had it.
It disables even more post processing than game mode.
I did find it after looking at this thread, I had to plug into HDMI port 4 and then change the name of the connection to PC… It made the picture terrible though, I don’t know what they did but it felt like 720p stretched to 1080p, everything was really grainy or fuzzy and the colours lost a lot of depth, the difference it made in terms of input lag was just noticeably better so I switched it back since it was quite a bit different in terms of picture. It also removed a lot of the options for picture setup. Figured there is probably settings to make it look better, but didn’t have the time to go around a look.
Chipping in late in the day, but do have to say that I am a Fanatec CSR convert (to the TX)!. I still race in FM4 leagues which I use my Fanatec for, and I have to say that I don’t enjoy it any more (or at least half as much as I used to) as the TX is miles more responsive, better FFB, no noticeable input lag and I feel much more engaged with the driving experience.
My only complaint was that the TX stock pedals were absolute mod-edit! and the stock rim felt like a toy, but I’m now using it with my Fanatec CS pedals with the Basher CPX adapter and also the GTE and F1 rims, which are all super-fantastic.
I’ve recently received my TX wheel and Next Level wheel stand and while I can’t fault the wheel stand (sturdy, well made, easy to assemble) I think the only reasons the wheel hasn’t been thrown out the window already is the fact that the stand is too heavy and my wife would kill me. I knew there would be a period of adjustment going from the game pad to the wheel but I find it completely undriveable. It’s completely destroyed any enjoyment I get from the game. Corners that were easily flat with the game pad are now understeering messes (with the same car and settings). The pedals are are quite poor but we all know that but I wasn’t expecting the wheel to be so bad.
I’m not the fastest guy around but I can generally get into the top 1% on the leaderboards and have a top 100 time around Bathurst in P class with the game pad which I usually run with clutch turned on, no ABS, and traction control only on P and X class cars (not trying to brag but just trying to show that I’m not totally new to the game). This is my first wheel but I’ve experienced all sorts of wheels ranging from the generic X-Box wheel up to a $100k CXC Simulator running rFactor and iRacing and it’s just terrible.
I’ll be trying some settings over the weekend and give it more time to settle in but unless things improve greatly there will be a TX wheel and Next Level wheel stand for sale very soon.
There is a big learning curve when switching up to a wheel, and the only thing that will get you through it is perseverance, unfortunately. I would suggest starting off in something slower in D class, take the time to get used to the wheel. The forza advanced controller settings I would suggest using are
Steering inside deadzone 0%
Steering outside deadzone 100%
Acceleration inside deadzone 0%
Acceleration outside deadzone 100%
Deceleration inside deadzone 0%
Deceleration outside deadzone 100%
Also, you will need to change the degrees of rotation every time you load forza up. I do this in the advanced controller settings, but you can do it on the wheel itself with the “Mode” button, and pressing left/right on the d-pad.
I use 900 degrees for all the road cars, 510 for all the production based race cars (i.e the BMW race cars, the Risi F458, ect), and 300 for the open wheel race cars and LMP style race cars.
I drive without ABS, TCS, STM, with TCS only getting turned on with some of the more difficult to drive cars. I use normal steering, and I would recommend that you use that as well; sim steering seems far too twitchy on the wheel.
+1,also controller have hidden assists,wheels have none. If you are using sim steering try normal while learning. Hang in there its well worth it!
I’ve been running those exact settings but have set the steering to 3 and 100 as it’s too direct when running P cars and driving in a straight line is too twitchy. I’m running normal steering also.
I tried it again today and find it better with P cars than slower cars. The lower class cars are too vague in their handling for me.
Questions for your guys if I may.
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Is the Xbox button supposed to work to turn the machine or wheel on? I can use it to turn the xbox off but the only ways I can turn the machine on is with the controller or by unplugging the wheel then plugging it back in again. If I turn the machine on with the controller I can’t activate the wheel in any way other than unplugging the USB and plugging it back in again. The Xbox button on the wheel won’t work to activate the wheel.
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When the cooling fan inside the the wheel activates does it ever turn off? On my first night of ownership I spent about half an hour driving and the fan came on. I turned the xbox off and the fan in the wheel kept running so I thought maybe it was of a timer or thermostat and once the motor cooled it would turn off. Got up the next morning to go to work and the fan was still running. The only way I could turn it off was to unplug the wheel.
I’d like to say thanks also for the advice and encouragement that’s been given already. It’s great to find people being supportive of each other rather than the all too common forum ranting and flaming. It’s great to see and much appreciated.
I always disconnect the wheel from the xbox and the electricity mains, when I am done with it. I will only plug it back in once my xbox is turned on, and fully booted up. As for the fan, if you leave your xbox turned on for a bit with the wheel plugged in, the fan will eventually stop. Then you just have to disconnect the wheel.
Just to finish this all off I wanted to make one final post.
I did what you all said and persevered for a bit more trying some new settings and adjusting to how the wheels drives differently to how the game pad drives. I’ve found that I am now really enjoying the faster cars (R and P classes) more than the lower class road cars. I’ve managed to shave several seconds off my LeMans lap time in the 787B with my fastest in rivals putting me in the top 600 and fastest in testing putting me around 450th. I’m running 540DOR on the wheel as I’ve found I tend to be too eager on turn-in with less DOR and any more you need too much input through the wheel. I also turned off ABS and found that even with the standard pedals and no feedback at all it’s easier to modulate the braking that using ABS and just stomping on them.
So in the end I went from hating the wheel more than I’ve hated anything before to quite enjoying the driving experience. Still a bit of adjusting to do before I try an tackle another 2.4hour endurance race but happy to say I’m getting there.
Thanks everyone and sorry to the OP for taking over his thread.
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