Realistic Tunes & Setup (UPDATED: 16/06/2019 LE MANS PHYSICS UPDATE COMING SOON! SEE LAST POST!)

I enjoy seeing your passion for this. I will try a few runs on this car as I enjoy it and have some really great lap times on some Ovals with it although not what it was built for…sounds very nice too😊 I should be a blast to drive at the Track it was designed for with very similar tune ran in real life. I am not sure if I will do the grip handicap though as I don’t even know where that is…LOL

Thanks Dan! Appreciate your kind words!

If you don’t do the grip Handicap, the car won’t behave anywhere near what it should do.

If you go into free play or a private multiplayer match, all you do is change the settings by going into “Car Restrictions”. Scroll all the way down & you’ll see it there. Hope that helps! Once I Getty home tonight I’ll post some pics!

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I have a some time today and I will play around with this. Thanks for helping me out with the grip handicap as well.

You’re very welcome! Hope you enjoy!

Year: 1989
Manufacturer: Mercedes
Model: M-B C 9

This tune & setup is specifically designed to run at Le Mans Circuit De La Sarthe Old Mulsanne as Turn 10 modelled the low downforce version of the real life car which ran & at Le Mans back in 1989. They did not model the sprint version which ran at tracks like Suzuka & Brands Hatch, so this is why the setup has low downforce & low grip. It’s intended for a specific track like the games model & the real life version, though of course you can use it at other tracks. The main difference between the Sprint Model & the Low Downforce Model is the removal of the front splitter & a massive reduction of the rear wing. This is why the car has significant understeer when using my tune & setup. It’s intended to hit the highest top speed possible & perform as close as possible to the real life car in terms of cornering, braking, acceleration, top speed & more crucially lap times.

The tune runs a 0.95 Power Handicap for the Race Mode Version of the car. If you want to run the Qualifying Mode Version keep the Power Handicap at 1.00. Always run a 0.5 Front Grip Handicap. This is to emulate the amount of grip the tyres would have had back in 1989. DO NOT run any Rear Grip Handicap, keep that at 1.00. The 0.05 reduction in power is simulating the power & torque difference between Race Mode & Qualifying mode as in real life, the engine would have been turned down to aid the cars reliability for the full race. If you are on a wheel I’d recommend starting at around 360° of rotation & 47 linearity & increase or decrease the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer, however 360° to 390° is around what the car should be ran at. This ensures you have a nice tight & responsive steering wheel without overusing the tires too significantly. Anything below 360° & the front tires will begin to scrub, however it’s all personal preference, although I’d always run that 47 linearity.

The gear ratios have been adjusted to maximize the top speed performance in Qualifying Mode, yet to spare the engine in Race Mode. The ratios are extremely similar to the stock car present in Forza Motorsport 7. The tire pressure is relatively high to handle the load from the downforce at high speeds. The car is utilizing very little front camber & rear camber to improve braking, tyre heating & traction at LeMans. To complement the low amount of camber, the car is running extremely low toe in & out at the front & rear of the car to reduce rolling resistance as to not impact the top speed. The Mercedes also has very high caster like the real life counterpart.

The car is quite softly sprung both with the roll bars & the springs to aid the car around the low speed corners. It’s using a very low ride height to minimize drag as well. The car shouldn’t bottom out at any point of the track. The damping has been adjusted based on the cars curb weight, downforce, spring rate & ride height. Unfortunately with a car so old, especially race car, it’s hard to find the unsprung weight of the car as real world data is very limited. The differential has also been adjusted to simulate a limited slip differential better then what the stock tune represents.

As for assists, this is what I’d run:

Braking Line: Off
ABS: Off
TCS: Off
STM: Off
Manual With Clutch
Simulation Steering
Simulation Damage
Rewind: Off
Friction Assist: Off
Collision Assist: Off

If these are too difficult, here’s my advise. Turn on Braking Line just to get used to the braking points. Run TCS on Super Easy, especially in the rain. Never run any STM on this car, even in the rain. ABS will prevent you from locking up but will increase your braking significantly. Manual with Clutch is not only the most authentic way of driving the car, but it’s also the fastest. Always keep Friction Assist turned off. Collision Assist in entirely preferential when racing, though I’d keep it off as it’s more realistic. I would always run Simulation Damage as well. Rewind I’d keep off but that’s just me.

NOTE: Whenever you change an assist make sure to rewind. This will make 100% sure that the Handicaps are working as intend as there can be glitches & bugs causing the Handicaps to reset when changing assists or settings.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their Handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Power Handicap & Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars.

That should round up this iteration of the technical analysis of the 1989 Mercedes-Benz #63 Sauber-Mercedes C 9. realistic tune & setup. If you have any suggestions, feedback, complaints or want me to cover anything else to do with the tune, let me know! Discord is the best place for contacting me but I do check back here quite often as well.

Until next time, have fun & enjoy the tune!

Hey guys!

Since this car came out yesterday, I’ve been working for about 12 to 13 hours straight trying to bring this tune out for you and here it is, the 2018 McLaren Senna!

Year: 2018
Manufacturer: McLaren
Model: Senna
Environment: Any
Track: Any
Keyword 1: Grip
Keyword 2: Best For Grip
Description: Realistic / 0.9 Power / 0.8 Front / 1.00 Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to run a 0.90 Power and always run a 0.80 Front Grip Handicap. DO NOT run any Rear Grip Handicap, keep that at 1.00. If you’re on a wheel, I’d recommend starting at around 900° minimum & increase the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer. I would always run 47 Linearity as well.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars, but I’d only decrease it to 0.95 or 0.9 minimum.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

0.9 Power Handicap
0.8 Front Grip Handicap
1.00 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF or ON
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Stability Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

As always guys, enjoy!

Hey guys! New tune out for the 2013 Ferrari LaFerrari! Hope you all enjoy!

Year: 2013
Manufacturer: Ferrari
Model: LaFerrari
Environment: Any
Track: Any
Keyword 1: All Around
Keyword 2: Good All Around
Description: Realistic / 0.8 Power / 0.7 Front / 1.00 Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to run a 0.80 Power and always run a 0.70 Front Grip Handicap. DO NOT run any Rear Grip Handicap, keep that at 1.00. If you’re on a wheel, I’d recommend starting at around 900° minimum & increase the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer. I would always run 47 Linearity as well.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars, but I’d only decrease it to 0.95.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

0.80 Power Handicap
0.70 Front Grip Handicap
1.00 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF or ON
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Stability Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

As always guys, enjoy!

Here’s a short 1 lap showcase of the new 2013 Ferrari LaFerrari tune! Enjoy!

Thanks Evan…nice work on this…I again will try it later as Chores to do first…

Cheers Dan! Hope you enjoy it, let me know what you think!

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Hey guys! New tune out for the 2013 McLaren P1! Hope you all enjoy!

Year: 2013
Manufacturer: McLaren
Model: P1
Environment: Any
Track: Any
Keyword 1: Circuit
Keyword 2: Good All Around
Description: Realistic / 0.85 Power / 0.95 Front / 0.90 Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to always run a 0.85 Power, a 0.95 Front Grip Handicap & a 0.90 Rear Grip Handicap. If you’re on a wheel, I’d recommend starting at around 900° minimum & increase the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer. I would always run 47 Linearity as well.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars, but I’d only decrease it to 0.95 or 0.90 depending on what you prefer.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

0.85 Power Handicap
0.95 Front Grip Handicap
0.90 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF or ON
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Stability Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

As always guys, enjoy!

Here’s also a lap around the Nürburgring Nordschleife in the 2013 McLaren P1 to wet your appetite! See you guys soon!!

Realistic Tune Showcase | 2013 McLaren P1 POV | Forza Motorsport 7

Hello everyone!

I’ve been working really hard to get this out to you guys! This is the Realistic Road Course Tune & Setup for all the 2019 Spec IndyCars in Forza Motorsport 7. The tune will be available to download shortly for all the 2019 Spec IndyCars & a brand new specialized Realistic Tune & Setup for the Indianapolis 500 will also be available to download later on tonight for all the 2019 Spec IndyCars!

I do have the Road Course tune ready to download for the 2019 Honda #15 Rahal Letterman Lanigan Racing Dallara right now if you’d like a sneak peak before it goes live for every 2019 Spec IndyCar!

Year: 2019
Manufacturer: Honda / Chevrolet
Model: Any 2019 Spec IndyCar
Environment: Any
Track: Any
Keyword 1: Circuit
Keyword 2: Best For Handling
Description: Realistic / 0.80 Power / 1.00 Front & Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to always run a 0.80 Power & leave both the Front & Rear Grip Handicaps at 1.00. If you’re on a wheel, I’d recommend starting at around 390° maximum & decrease the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer. I would always run 47 Linearity as well.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars, but I’d only decrease it to 0.95 or 0.90 depending on what you prefer.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

0.80 Power Handicap
1.00 Front Grip Handicap
1.00 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF
Stability Control: OFF
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

Here’s also a sneak peak of a lap I did in the Realistic Road Course Tune & Setup at Long Beach GP Circuit:

Realistic Tune Showcase | 2019 Road Course IndyCars | Forza Motorsport 7

As always guys, enjoy!

NOTE: The Road Course tune should now be available to download for EVERY 2019 Spec IndyCar. Enjoy!

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Hello everyone!

First off EVERY 2019 Spec IndyCar should now have my realistic Road Course tune available to download! Please leave feedback, comments, suggestions & though & most importantly enjoy! Secondly My specialized Realistic Indianapolis 500 tune & setup is also now available for ever 2019 Spec IndyCar! Hope You guys enjoy!

Manufacturer: Honda / Chevrolet
Model: Any 2019 Spec IndyCar
Environment: Indianapolis Motor Speedway
Track: Indianapolis Brickyard Oval
Keyword 1: Top Speed
Keyword 2: Best For Speed
Description: Realistic Indy 500 / 0.80 Power / 1.00 Front & Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to always run a 0.80 Power & leave both the Front & Rear Grip Handicaps at 1.00. If you’re on a wheel, I’d recommend starting at around 390° maximum & decrease the amount of rotation depending on what you prefer. I would always run 47 Linearity as well.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they are too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps apart from the Front Grip Handicap. Always keep the Rear Grip Handicap at 1.00 for the Drivatars. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars, but I’d only decrease it to 0.95 or 0.90 depending on what you prefer.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

0.80 Power Handicap
1.00 Front Grip Handicap
1.00 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF
Stability Control: OFF
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

As always guys, enjoy!

Hello guys!

My new Realistic Tune & Setup for the 2019 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 Pace Car is available to download now! Here’s the details:

Manufacturer: Chevrolet
Model: Corvette PaceCar
Environment: Any
Track: Any
Keyword 1: Circuit
Keyword 2: Good All Round
Description: Realistic / 1.00 Power / 1.00 Front / 0.95 Rear Grip Handicap
Gamertag: EpicEvan777

NOTE: Please remember to always run a 0.95 Rear Grip Handicap & leave both the Power & Front Grip Handicaps at 1.00. If you are using a wheel, the correct Degree of Rotation you should use is 1141°. If you can’t go as high as 1141°, run as high a degree of rotation as possible.

For the most realistic Drivatars, create a new bucket for them & leave all their Handicaps at 1.00. If they’re too tough, start to decrease their Front Grip Handicap or decrease their difficulty. Do not decrease any of their handicaps. You can reduce the Power Handicap of the Drivatars but I’d only decrease it to 0.95 at most.

Here’s a list of what Handicaps to run, just in case:

1.00 Power Handicap
1.00 Front Grip Handicap
0.95 Rear Grip Handicap

As for Assists:

What You Should Run:

Suggested Line: OFF or ON
Braking: ABS OFF or ON
Steering: SIMULATION (NEVER CHANGE)
Traction Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Stability Control: OFF to SUPER EASY
Shifting: Manual (NEVER CHANGE)
Damage, Fuel, & Tyre Wear: SIMULATION or FUEL & TYRES
Rewind: OFF or ON
Friction Assist: OFF (NEVER CHANGE)
Collision Assist: OFF

A lot of effort went into making this tune & setup as realistic as possible, especially in the short time period. I may update the tune later if I think tweaking needs to be done. In the meantime though, please send me any feedback, criticisms, suggestions or complaints! All is very much appreciated.

If you’d like more information or need to contact me, join the discord here: Realistic Tunes & Setup

As always guys, enjoy!

I tried your Indy Car road tune. I went to Road America since I had just driven a stock Indy car there the night before. It pegged redline on those long straights but not too bad as to hurt it’s time. The stock Indy car felt very loose but your tune tightened it up nicely.

When I was driving the stock Indy car it was against an all Indy car field. But using your tune put prototypes and other X class cars in the field. Is that because once you use a tuned car everything else can come in but stock has to be against stock? Is there a way to run only against Indy cars even with tuned Indy cars?

Also what does moving the linearity to 47 do? I ask because I didn’t drive it at Road America at 47 I used 50 which I’ve used from the beginning. But then I turned around and drove it at Long Beach with 47 and it seemed to make it very sluggish to turn. It’s almost like the linearity change nullified changing the DOR setting.

Are you 100% positive that you used the 0.8 Power Handicap for the Road Course tune at Road America? I tested there & it never once hit the readline for me, may have to check that out.

That is because of the 0.8 Power Handicap.A way to negate that problem is by creating 2 buckets. The first bucket has a maximum or 1 driver & a minimum of 1 driver (this will be your bucket & you should apply the 0.8 power handicap to this bucket). Then make another bucket with 23 minimum drivers & 23 maximum drivers. Make it X Class & restrict the year to 2019 (this bucket is for the AI).

47 linearity makes the centre of the wheel less sensitive to the lock to lock part of the wheel. Running 47 is a personal preference of mine. It makes the car less twitchy in the centre & more dead feeling like real life. Try running 270° at 47 linearity if you feel it’s too sluggish but you can always revert back to 50.

Hope this helps!

No I did not run the 0.8 power handicap as I was mainly just trying it out to see if it got rid of the stock loose condition I had felt before which it did. I’ll go back and do the handicap and see if it stays off redline.

I also forgot about restricting the year to 2019 so that will clean up the class.

I’ll also have to check with some drafting if it’ll hit the redline at Road America using the 0.8 Power Handicap though I doubt it will. The class & year should 100% clear up the problem you’re having. There is probably going to be a slight update to both the Indianapolis 500 & Roadcourse version of the tune tonight either way, unfortunately I haven’t been able to bring it sooner because of irl stuff.

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I re-ran this yesterday at Road America with the 0.8 power handicap and it did keep it out of the redline.

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