Patate Hot Lap Series

[Jezza14]

RX7 build/tune. (Work in progress)

Conversion:

Engine swap - 3.7L V6
Widebody Kit (first option)
CSC

Fuel System -Street
CSC - Street

Race Brakes, ARBs, sport weight reduction, extra light ballast

Race tyres, Max F/R

Wheels “A” - Torq-Thrust M, 20in F/R rims

Race Transmission, Race Diff

Race Rear Wing (last option), street hood (last option).

Tune:

30, 30
6.10, 1.56, 1.14, 0.89, 0.72, 0.60, 0.49
-1.6, -1.0
0.0, 0.0, 7.0
1, 40
660.7, 660.7, 6.9, 6.9
3.4, 3.4, 10.2, 10.2
9.8, 9.8, 13.4, -5.1
100/115
48%, 130%
90, 15

[Jezza14]

Tried a lot of different builds of this. This is as stable as I’ve got it. The .7 was in 5 laps trying this tune when I ran .0, .8, .9 and then .7. RP Diamondback has a .6 on the board with a fairly significant error so the car will go a few tenths quicker.

[Operator1]

@Jezza14

So currently, unless I’m missing someone, Operator is leading on 1.02.830 and Lightsider is 4th on 1.02.847. I’m sure someone will break from the pack shortly but that’s close racing!

4 drivers within 0.017 seconds of each other!

[Jezza14]

There’s no right answer to that as no doubt Lightsider has set it up as best as they think they can. What are you looking to change about the performance?

[Jezza14]

And people criticise T10 for their PI system!

[Operator1]

@Jezza14

The .7 was in 5 laps trying this tune

It takes me way more laps to even start to approach a decent time.
This doesn’t come as easily for me as it seems to for others.
I gotta put in work just to be slower than others who are faster in their sleep.
Y’all are awesome.

[Jezza14]

To be fair, I’d already done quite a few laps before re-tuning, so it wasn’t like I was going in cold. If you are running a .8 in these cars it’s fair to say that you’ve got a lot of driving skills in this game.

[Jezza14]

Can someone with the ability to download shared tunes check out whose tune is used for the 97 Mazda at 160th on the Hakone Grand Prix course (it’s the highest shared tune for this car on either Hakone board)? Just interested in seeing what the stats look like compared to mine.

[Lightsider74]

I’ll be honest it’s mostly trial and error. Move the sliders one at time from min to max to see what affect each has.

As Jezza says depends on what you want a car to do.

An example just now on 240sx: I wanted more bite on the front end on throttle lift-off. Took a few adjustments but dropping the front anti dive from 30 to 20 seemed to do the trick.

It’s quite a laborious process esp. trying to tune in rivals - having to quit out, adjust, restart and test.

Change to manual with clutch if you haven’t already.

[Lightsider74]

Don’t think I’m banging in the sub 1.03s lap after lap because I’m not.

[TRUE_B_K_3_4]

PHLS#7
CAR#461
TIME#1:03.075

some improvement tonight. v8 swap.

[Operator1]

@Jezza14

Can someone with the ability to download shared tunes check out whose tune is used for the 97 Mazda at 160th on the Hakone Grand Prix course (it’s the highest shared tune for this car on either Hakone board)? Just interested in seeing what the stats look like compared to mine.

[Jezza14]

PHLS#7
CAR#424
TIME#1:02.640

Probably won’t get another chance to run. There’s at least a couple more tenths in it I think but it requires getting the first long right hander perfect and I can only do that very occasionally and haven’t then managed to combine that with a perfect last corner.

[BlackCell567]

AWD cars tuning

Your understeering. [IMG_8033] [IMG_7960] [IMG_8040] [IMG_7961] Check your tire temps in telemetry. Front tires overheating vs the rear. Here’s some pics for setup guides. Front tires always gona be hotter there doing the most work but this can help even that out and make it more user friendly to drive. Suspension geo has a lot to play with this to, experiment w the bar one way and the opposite and see how it changed the handling characteristics. Find a tune that suites you. Also the diff…

Says awd tuning but same principal applies for setups and all cars. Give it a good read over and write down or screenshot stuff if you need to for quick reference.

Next step is reading what your car is doing and not doing. After observing your car and replay, telemetry glance over the post above and adjust one thing at a time until you get more experienced, get what your looking for out of the car. Might help to create an extra save before you get started so you can always go back if you adjust too much all at once and didn’t like the results. Still need help give me a shout and I’ll try to assist.

[AdmPatate]

I’m not sure if I’ll be able to update the event on time this Thursday, so it might start a little later than usual. So far it’s looking like Spa, probably either GTP/C or Early LMP because we haven’t done prototypes yet.

[Jezza14]

If you do use either of these then it might be worth trying a bespoke PI (ie not 998), as it will rule out a lot of options as competitive otherwise I think. PI 950 might work well (without checking each specific car).

Appreciate that might not be ideal for non-tuners but I think most people competing use their own tunes and I’m happy to share any I create as well.

[Lightsider74]

PHLS#7
CAR#424
TIME#1:02.782

Using a tweaked @Jezza14 build/tune

[Operator1]

There you go again - beat me by 5 thousandths!?

[Lightsider74]

I’m disappointed. I was aiming for 1/1000th

[AdmPatate]

My main issue with it is it’s hard to verify, unless people are setting their records and the time appears in the leaderboard.

I really wish they broke the R and P classes in increments of 25.

Break down R and P classes

The proposal is simple: break down R and P classes by increments of 25. Now: R class: 801-900 P class: 901-998 With the breakdown: R1 class: 801-825 R2 class: 826-850 R3 class: 851-875 R4 class: 876-900 P1 class: 901-925 P2 class: 926-950 P3 class: 951-975 P4 class: 976-998 These new performance classes could be an addition rather than a replacement, in which case you could still set races to R (and P) class with a PI range of 801-900 (and 901-998), or use a more restrictive sub-class. W…