one more try

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1

ok here the thing all rear wheel driven cars are spinning around and i have no idea why.
so i will put my lotus elan tune and see if somebody can explain why it wants to spin around .

T-press front and rear 28,2 psi
camber front : -1 ; rear : -0.5
st.bar : front 39 and rear 40
springs : front 389 and rear 364,5
drive H front and rear 4,7
shocks rebound front 11 rear 10,2
shocks stiff front 2.5 rear 3,5
wings ( to different versions ) vers 1 front 40 rear 55 ore full front and rear ( this makes no differents in drive and in end time )
bracks front at 55%
brackpressure 130%
Diff. acc. 15% ; deccel. 5%

two things i have seen ; one there is almost no tyre temp and wen the car is going to spin i can feel is comming .
track is hock. short.

i realy dont get it why its driving like it is, i have tryed softspring hard rebound shocks, always the same thing all those tunes will do1:12, low but none will go under that.
hope somebody can explain it spend yet a other 10hrs of trying.

R

2

for your elan I’d suggest greatly reducing the st.bar (Anti-Roll Bars?) - for a quick experiment, try turning the ARBs each to near minimum and have another go.

3

that whas a good idea but only for the rear … help a lot im still stuck a 1:12.056 .

anybody els ?

R

4

personal preference perhaps, but I tend to like stiff springs low ARBs and your differential appears to be much lower than I often end up.

you’re probably going to have to post the details of your build if you want anything any more specific - not for me to judge, most here can probably pick better parts that me, but the weight and its distribution figure into balancing the springs, anti-roll bars and damping (aero?).

5

What class is this for? I will take a look at it and build one up and see if I can help.

6

Lower the roll bars to 20 and 10
Up the camber to 2.5 and 2.2
Decrease the rear bump to the same number as the front (2.5)
Move the differential decel up to around 30% the accel is fine.

Use your max aero settings until you get used to the car, it’s not really an easy one to handle sometimes.

7

ok here the thing all rear wheel driven cars are spinning around and i have no idea why.
so i will put my lotus elan tune and see if somebody can explain why it wants to spin around .

T-press front and rear 28,2 psi
camber front : -1 ; rear : -0.5
st.bar : front 39 and rear 40
springs : front 389 and rear 364,5
drive H front and rear 4,7
shocks rebound front 11 rear 10,2
shocks stiff front 2.5 rear 3,5
wings ( to different versions ) vers 1 front 40 rear 55 ore full front and rear ( this makes no differents in drive and in end time )
bracks front at 55%
brackpressure 130%
Diff. acc. 15% ; deccel. 5%

In my experience the hardest thing to get right, everytime, is the roll bars. I can tell you that your bars are without a doubt WAY too high and are DEFINITELY part of the problem. You can change the roll bias from front to rear but IMO every car has a goldylocks of how much total stiffness it needs to compensate for the rest of the setup. So basically look at the default settings, add up the roll bar values, and make sure that whatever you set for roll bars don’t exceed the sum of the stock roll bar values. So if they’re 20.5 / 29.5, you wouldn’t want your new setup to exceed 50 total roll bar points.

Your springs should match the weight distribution of the car, I don’t recommend creating oversteer by having weird spring rates. Your car is 43% front weight but you have 389 (51% spring) front and 364 (49%) rear. Your car doesn’t even know what to do with itself when you go into a corner lol.

Then there’s these:
shocks rebound front 11 rear 10,2
shocks stiff front 2.5 rear 3,5

Now a car with 43% weight distribution should have lower bump and rebound in the front than the rear FOR SURE. Your bump rebound fights gravity right along with the spring rates, so your bump settings (although really low) do make sense because they essentially mirror the weight distribution of your car (what your springs SHOULD follow also.) Now your rebound stiffness is what tells me you have problems. Rebound rates act as dampeners for the cars front / rear bias as the weight gets tossed around. They can push a balanced car through corners or they can steady an unbalanced car. For you to have your rear rebound .8 lower than your front tells me the car wants to oversteer all the time and you have everything you can do to stop it. The answer lies in balancing the whole rubix cube, so that everything works together rather than having some parts of the tune compensate for others. You have imbalance in your roll bars and springs that you tried to counter with the rebound rates. I’d start from scratch honestly I think the whole tune’s toast! lol

Oh and I recommend ALWAYS running your RWD diffs between 60-70, usually 67 is mint. The diff controls the difference in rotational speed of the associated wheels. So the harder your car corners, the lower the diff needs to be or else your rear end gets loose because the outside wheel is locking up. I don’t think it’s ever worth going below 60 though, unless its a FWD or AWD diff. Because on RWD you want that lock to push you steady through corners and launching out.

8

Zach, Where did you get that his car is 43% front weight? I only see that he is tuning a Lotus Elan which, if I’m not mistaken (I’m not on right now, cannot check in game), is a front engine RWD car with a slight front bias - as is his tune, for the most part.

9

What he says is backwards anyhow

10

ok i guess its time so speak numbers then :
Car = Lotus Elan in C Class
Track - Hockeheim Short ( Rival )
With out going in to parts heres the result of the parts :

Power : 133 KW - 178 PK
Torck : 205 Nm - 151 LB-FT
Wight : 756 KG - 1.667 LBS
Front : 50% - 50%
engine : 1.6L - 1.6L

Speed : 3,4
Drive. : 6,2
Acc. : 6,4
Start : 6,9
Breaks 6,6

please not that i use different rimhights, stock in the front and max in the rear.

ok reading all of the information i completly restarted but still it wants to spin around and still it will not go in the 1:11.xxx.
right more numbers then :
Tirepress : front and rear - 26,8 PSI (1,8 Bar)
Camber : front -1 , rear -0,5
Caster ( last option on that page ) : 4,7
ARB Front 37,8 Rear 2,8
(curently i have then at 20 and 10 )
Springs Front 139,2 Rear 208,9 LB/IN ( 24,9 and 37,3 N/mm )
Ridehight Front and Rear : 4,7 IN ( 11,9 cm )
Schockrebound Front 9,5 Rear 10,5
Schock stiff Front and Rear 2,5
Wings Front : 88 Rear at 171 LB ( 40 and 78 kg )
Breaks power 60% at front pressure at 90%
Diff Acc : 20% and desel : 5%

this seams to work for the most part only first turn whit the high ARB is a real pain , i still dont get it why it wont go under the 1:12,xxx.
iff any of you want to test drive it ill put it up in my frontstore ore send me a elan ill load it up for you.

any ideas how to improve it ?

R

update :

putting the ARB at front 20 and rear at 2,8 this seams to improve the handelig at the first corner…

11

this is probably another reason “it wants to spin around”

I’d suggest:

Same rims and tires, both F & R and both about 29 or 30 psi (2 bar), F & R
ARBs: 55/45
springs 50/50
rebound: 50/50
bump: 50/50

and give it try for a few laps.

12

First of all the elan like most other small light cars in Forza is going to be loose no matter what.You might just need better throttle control but I would try stiffer spring low bump and high aero.