So a friend of mine had this car, which he got from an auction. But he accidentally messed with the tune and reset it. Whoever tuned it had the thing going 0-60 in 1.6 seconds. I’d appreciate if anyone knows who the tuner is so I can find the tune for mine, and tell him about it. It was ridiculously quick. Thanks.
What class was it?
You should be able to put the tune back on.
Go to upgrade - then tab over to my tunes and the tunes you had on car should be there and load it
Thanks I’ll give that a shot. It must have been a drag race tune. It was an S2. And there’s no way he didn’t get a tune file from it, because we both can’t get it back that fast. It went 232 and 0-60 like a flippin rocket
If you buy the car at auction you dont get thetune file
FORD MUSTANG BOSS 302 HE CAR FOR GOLIATH
This setup is for experienced drivers only - The car optimizes speed for stability and can get very twitch at 370kph upwards and given the best balance it will reach 405kph. The optimum midrange speed is around 270 - 305kph
There is a second option with this tune where i’m testing a theory that winning isn’t important if you just go for very high skill laps. You can easily achieve 10,000xp skill bonus multipliers if you forget about winning and aim to take on wrecking posts and fences. There’s also a few sections slightly off track where you have vineyards that will allow you to pull donuts for skill bonus without much effort.
BASELINE SETUP (you can tweak this to your own specs but it still works very consistently):
Tire Pressure: F20-23 R18-21 (lower tire pressure = more grip and is better for controlling drifting than higher pressure for speed and less oversteer)
Final Drive 2.87 1st 3.75 2nd 2.09 3rd 1.49 4th 1.19 5th 0.99 6th 0.85
Camber F-5.0 degrees R 5.0 degrees Toe F 0 R 0 Front Caster 5.7 degrees (highest setting makes cornering speed higher, reduces use of brakes but you can adjust Anti Roll to be a little softer if there is too much skidding. This means the car is too stiff and the camber adjustment will reduce grip to the road surface.)
Anti-Roll Bars F 34.84 R 30.38 Car must roll more in the rear to allow greater tire contact on road surface - preferably differential axle - rear drive then front)
Springs F 195.1 R 186.7 Ride Height F 16.6 R 16.6 (soft enough to absorb bumps and dips but rigid enough to stop bounce and maintain stability over crests . If the front lifts or the car takes off - the spring settings are the main control for stability management)
Rebound Stiffness F 12.2 R 14.1 Bump Stiffness F 4.9 R 6.6 (pressure the shocks will sustain when in use. Softer rebound makes the car floppy - DROOP - Droop is the amount of roll the car has in braking versus sharp acceleration. Bump stiffness in soft setting should absorb minimal dips but it can destabilize the car if it takes off or air gets under the body.)
Aero F 45 R 91 (downward force applied over the front and back axle increases grip and cornering stability versus a loss to overall speed.)
Brake - Balance 53% Braking Pressure 160% (the faster you go the more brake pressure required to stop - but locking up the brakes can destabilize the car. The balance is to put main brake more to the front axle and use Handbrake as a secondary option for the rear axle. This also helps for pulling ‘S’ Drifts and Fishtailing.)
Differential Front Acceleration 45% Deceleration 55% Rear Acceleration 45% Deceleration 65% Center Balance 53% (with higher torque from the twin turbo’s it is best to stabilize the amount of wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear from standstill. Wasted torque will not be gained by increasing Acceleration unless the Final Drive is adjusted to mid torque. This is not easy to achieve because you either trade overall power and reduce the engine specs or you balance the acceleration across 2 axles as in this setup.)
Spec set to highest possible build S2 941 uses 4wd/twin turbo/V10 full engine upgrade with front and rear wings and 2 way differential - tires are on widest setting upgrade and rim sizes are 1 step larger - don’t go low profile because this car being so light, needs softer tires for absorbing bumps. Compensation for speed is lower tire pressure so you can drift corners - Gearbox is fairly high torque through 2nd to 4th which allows long extended drift hold. Not designed for drifting but if you want to milk Goliath without having to win at unbeatable level you have a choice between racing clean and easily winning doing 10 minute, 45 second laps or not bother with winning and instead do lots of drifting and skill building. Either way you will accumulate around 140,000 xp @ lap. Credits can be upwards of 300,000.
When building this car I use a steering kit not a controller. I also test my cars in automatic but drive my cars in manual quick-shift in game. I try to give the automatic enough torque to stretch the gears a little more than you get from driving manual as compensation for choosing when to change gear on manual. Note also that these specs are designed with difficulty settings at Unbeatable level, No Traction Control, ABS either on or off but not assisted (doesn’t make much difference if you know how to use a brake of just pull a huge skill drift before cornering), Stability Control On, This build isn’t going to send you into trees but uncontrolled it’s tricky to pull up so I suggest you try it out before diving into a long race thinking it will be easy - it isn’t, because all your opponents are S2 941 exactly the same spec as you at Unbeatable level. However - your opponent is beatable in this setup because you will push the limits of speed whilst cornering with or without a drift braking maneuver, whereas the opponent AI is less aggressive but still consistently fast (lap times between 10:56 and 11:05) something that can challenge your skill with and average time of 10m:50s. Option 2 is not to win - just do lots of skill chaining because the xp from this alone will compensate you coming last and I’ve discovered that speed is not necessary to xp boost with this model car as it is an xp skill HE spec.