Am I supposed to be shooting for 32-33psi when warm on the track, or should I be shooting to keep the tire temperature distributioneven throughout a lap? I’m finding that for the majority of cars I’ve tuned for 31-33psi on-track, center temperature is a lot cooler than the inside and outside edges, denoting underinflation.
I played around more with the camber and tire pressure settings to best keep tire heat even throughout a lap and it felt like the car gripped better, though I can’t tell if it was placebo or not. Many tuning guides and videos still say to aim for 32psi, but forzatune’s guide specifically states that for FM23’s new tire model, it’s no longer optimal to shoot for a specific pressure, but for even tire heating when tuning tire pressures and camber. Is this true?
Yeah you wanna use the tire temp telemetry and go for an even contact patch. There is no universal good tire pressure. It depends on the weight of the car mostly, camber, and weight distribution of the car. If your car is front heavy, you’ll require more front tire pressure to get an even contact patch and vice versa.
Also you wanna wait until you’ve done all your upgrades before you tune tire pressure, unless you’re good at remembering to re-tune it every time you install something that affects weight. I’ll often tune the tire pressure only to do weight reduction or ballast then forget to tune the tire pressure again and I’ll be way over inflated.
The settings in FM are for hot targets so that actually makes it easier to tune tires. I have found that these targets are off by 1 - 1.5psi tho so set them a lil lower than your target pressure and you should be good. I haven’t had much luck with 32 - 33 psi tho. Aim a lil higher like 35.
Ive found on motorsport best results come from setting your pressures and camber so that the inner, middle, and outer at the same temp after corner exit.
Same.
I don’t know if that’s the widely-accepted “best” or “meta” way to do it, but that’s how I’ve always done it across multiple titles, and it usually results in the handling response that I prefer.
I’ve seen it commonly said that the ballpark “optimal” racing tire temperature is usually around 200°F (+/- ~10°F).
Street & sport tires might be better at slightly cooler temps.
Cool thanks for the replies. I tuned a handful of cars today and they happened to all land in the 34-35psi ballpark, so that’s good to know.
Are we tuning camber for complete contact patch during cornering too? I’m generally tuning caster so that the camber angle is roughly equal through a variety of corners (I’ll use VIR grand east for this), then I’ll tune the cambers so that number is around -.3 to -.5 during cornering. I noticed that I’ll get different heat patterns on different cars. Some they heat pretty much equal throughout while cornering, some it heats evenly on the outer and center but warm (white) on the inside. Some it’s an even gradient from outside to inside. How do you guys handle your camber tuning? I always feel like after tuning it with this methodology it’s a vast improvement over stock, but it always feels like it can be better.
The system is a bit weird in motorsport. I used to get my camber as close to 0 while cornering and it would always be good in previous titles but with motorsport if you get your camber set for an optimal contact patch whilst cornering if you look at your temperatures the temps will often say you need ± camber angle to get temps even across the tyre. Seems counterintuitive and im certain its to do with oddities in the new physics model. I recommend going off the temps and not the camber screen in the telemetry as it seems to give better times by a few tenths off of its settings.
The game’s tire pressures are the peak temp/optimal grip value, not the cold one.
So I’m FM 7 and all previous ones I think, 2.1 bar meant that after the tires warm up they might me around 2.3 or higher depending on how you drive and the starting cold pressure you set. So that’s one thing.
The second thing is FM23 shows the peak value when you set it. So if you set 2.1 that means your car will start out at around 26 psi or 28 maybe ans reach a maximum of 30-32 psi. Sorry I don’t have the conversion calculator in front of me but you get the idea.
Final thing is, set the fire pressure a little higher on road surfaces with lots of bumps and camber, lower if you’re driving on a relatively flat surface.
Then there’s other things too like suspension setup, downforce setting, whether you want more understeer or oversteer.