Well I finally got myself the TX yesterday and it all looks promising. I’m a lifelong pad user and it will take a serious effort to adapt and familiarise myself with the nuances of a wheel, but on the face of it, it’s a far more enjoyable and immersive experience and I know I won’t regret committing to the wheel.
Now to the real reason I’m here…
I have two issue’s with the wheel. Firstly, the power supply cuts out whenever I even slightly move the position of my Playseat. When I investigated further, I found that whenever I fractionally move the 4-pin connector in the back of the wheel side to side, the power cuts out and comes back on. The 4-pin connector itself feels very loose in the back of the wheel and only requires minimum effort to pull it out, it almost feels like it could fall out itself at any moment. So, is this normal? If it isn’t, what would people advise I do? Manipulate the power supply with some tape so it stays in and stop moaning about it? Or send it back to the retailer?
Secondly, there seems to be a rather substantial inside dead-zone on both pedals. I have my in-game dead-zones fully open (0-100) but I was wondering if there were any dead-zone options accessible via the wheel calibration when hooked up to a PC? This is the killer for me because the dead-zone feels huge and is really hampering my braking. It seems as if my foot has to travel approximately 30-40mm before any braking is registered in-game…
I’d greatly appreciate everyone’s thoughts and advice on these issue’s.
With regards to the 4 pin power plug, it is not pushed in far enough. I had the same issue at first.
I have no deadzone on the pedals, have you looked at the telemetry data while on track? you press up on the D-pad (red engine start is a D-pad), it tells you in there the throttle and brake in a numbered percentage. The one next to the speedo isnt as accurate as to what is in the telemetry. Also again, check the connection to the wheel. Make sure to have the pedals connected to the wheel base before you power the wheel on, plug the wheel into a mains power outlet next, then connect the USB cable to the Xbox one (or PC) and all it to calibrate; then start up forza.
Also, when loading the game or a track; do not touch the wheel or pedals at all. This is recommended by thrustmaster, and can apparently mess up the wheel and pedals calibration.
“With regards to the 4 pin power plug, it is not pushed in far enough. I had the same issue at first.”
Yes, that was my experience too. When you’ve hard mounted it you think it’s all the way in when it isn’t. Once it’s in it’s pretty hard to accidentally knock out.
According verbal info I had from Thrustmaster support, anything that you set up on the PC other than the firmware is not used on the Xbox One.
Thanks for the info gents, you were both spot on about the power supply. Sure enough I pushed it in a little further and it’s now a lot more secure.
I’m still a little stumped about the huge amount of play I have in the brake pedal though… It’s really hampering me when trying to brake, especially in the small delicate braking zones.
Have you checked the connection from the pedals to the wheel? it may be as simple as the cable from the pedals not pushed into its socket enough. Have you also checked in the in game telemetry while on a track? As I mentioned before, you can do this by pressing up on the red “engine start”, which is a D-pad. If you still feel it is off, then I would suggest connecting the wheel to your PC/laptop. This will allow you to check that everything is working ok within the Thrustmaster driver software (Thrustmaster control panel), this includes the pedals, wheel rotation, and button presses.
p.s, did you make sure the wheel has the .45 firmware available from Thrustmaster. There appear to be some TX wheels around that have it pre-installed, but most it needs to be updated before first use. You can only install the firmware via a pc, as it is handled within Thrustmaster’s own software.
Thanks for your help with this Ialyrn, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately the more solutions I try, the closer I get to concluding there’s a fault with my pedals.
I’ve checked the connection which is fully pushed in and solid. I then checked the in-game telemetry which confirmed the large amount of play on the brake pedal, this prompted me to try what you suggested and connected the wheel to my PC… same result. Lastly, I can confirm I do have the .45 firmware installed.
I think I need to get in touch with Thrustmaster themselves.
Obviously an old thread but I believe I’m experiencing the exact same problem on my new wheel/pedals, when checking the telemetry in game or on the control panel my pedals need to be pressed approximately half way before registering a signal. O.P, did you have any joy sorting this or has anybody else had a similar experience?