I’m a generally ok driver at the moment but I’ve decided to try and put some time into my fastest lap on the Nurburgring GP circuit in the dry using an R-Class car and am looking for any tips.
My Fastest Lap: 01:59.312
Car: Ferrari FXX K (R 897)
No Tune
I have TC & ABS off and manual transmission with auto clutch.
I know it’s ambitious to look towards the top of the leader board (Europe that is) but why not eh? The fastest to date is 01:49.484 in a Lotus Elise GT1 (R 900)
My two main questions are…
Does having manual clutch make a significant difference to lap time?
Do I have to resign myself to changing car? I really like the car I’m using but the top of the leader-board is really heavy with the Lotus Elise GT1 (R900)
Does anyone think the Elite pad makes a difference with a driving game? I’ve never tried one.
Not in R class, definitely makes sense on lower classes.
As always in Forza, theres is some leaderboard cars, and the Lotus Elise GT1 is the one in R class. But the FXX K isn’t bad at all.
Not in my opinion…, I have both controllers and usually I can match the same times on both of them.
(and most important): Try a tune. Search for a Nurb GP tune and you’ll probable drop the time by several seconds. The tune will allow you to get the corners much faster than stock one.
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I checked the LBs and there are 2 FXX’s above your time on the LBs…one at #124 WW with a 1:57.774, the 2nd with a 1:58.546 @ #167. I took my FXX build to R900 and gave it a couple of laps for a 1:58.554. So, I think this car does have the potential for a Top-100 spot given the right tune and drive.
Build = F305/25R20, R365/30R20, front rim +1 (20"), with Outlaw II rims, so, stats at Race/365/792 HP/2902 lbs (41%), 7.4/7.6/9.3/7.5
I initially used Aero at 466/816, yet, this needs some work since I had some oversteer during several turns…so, would drop more on front. If you’d like I can work on the tune some amount (no charge…lol…).
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Decided to add a little more grip…so, build changes…used Race Roll Cage, same Max F/R width tires, NO front rim upgrade (so, 19"), and used SLAYER rims. This should give you 2924 lbs (41%). I ran with aero at 415/815. The tune (aero tweaks, gears, and Diff) can certainly use some work.
Managed a 1:57.606 for #119 WW in about 4 laps. [Top 100 under 1:56.994 (#100) at this moment. So, within 7 tenths.] Note: I use no assists.
Yes. Especially in the lower classes, in the race cars not so much. Especially when racing a car may not launch properly with manual clutch but manual will work fine.
You dont have to but often times the leaderboard car is the leaderboard car. It’s natural advantages give it a distinct advantage at certain tracks etc. Depending on how well the pi system works (usually not well) you should see a variety of cars but in the upper and the lower classes you will often see it littered with the same cars. Often times these cars have a glitch or something which allows it to either have much more handeling or power than most of the cars. Example: in forza 4 the chevy spark dominated D,E,F and if i recall also C. This car could have a bunch of upgrades before it even got to the top of c class. Back in forza 4 rwd swaps were all the rage so if you RWD swapped it it would do well in d and c also IIRC.
The elite pad is said to help, I have never personally tried it and did just fine with a regular pad as many of the current top players also dont use it. The longer sticks are said to increase your steering accuracy and allow for smoother inputs. The way forza is set up for a pad going lock to lock doesn’t really hurt you so its not a clear advantage. Good practice and many laps is the true advantage. As well as experience in tuning so that you can have the proper build and then modify tune to the track.
Manual with clutch does make a difference even in some of the higher classes. Some P class early prototypes are significantly faster with clutch. I.e Merc C9. Best way to check is to look at what the leaders are using. Also in the higher classes, with some builds you can leave out the race clutch upgrade if you need that extra PI for another upgrade.
Regarding the elite pad. I use one but they are expensive and the grips come off after about 6 months for me. I am on my third! I like the weight of them and button mapping is handy in some games but not in Forza. I use one paddle shifter as e brake but this is more for drifting in Horizon.
I do not use the longer sticks as I did not find them to be any better. They offer less resistance being longer which I found strange. Rumble through triggers is better on standard controller in my IMO.
Some people use the left trigger stop and alter the advanced control brake settings to allow full pull of brakes without locking up and with ABS off. This is ok if you tune yourself as the brake pressure on the tune plays a part in the calc.
I can run front page times (sometimes) in my chosen class and find my times are identical with either controller.
As Kesselring1987 pointed out, for high PI cars this is true. But lower class (e.g. D and C class), even with manual w/ clutch, the clutch is very slow and upgrading it can decrease shifting times. Using a stock clutch in a D-class car and hammering it the same way you would in an R-class car will slowly wear down the transmission and after a few laps you’ll start to feel and hear noticeable slip on the transmission.
Bull! Obv you dont know how to shift. Never has a clutch been a good upgrade in any forza if you know how to shift and dont miss the clutch. if you use man with clutch, purchase the clutch is never a good option. It is only a good option To negate slow shifts if u use manual or auto and even them the upgrades are better spent elsewhere.
Find me a lb tune that uses the clutch that is necessary and not just a filler to get pi to limit and remove a few lbs.
Are you talking about controller or wheel setup? As far as I know, the controller is a binary On/Off switch, whereas on a wheel/pedals setup, the clutch gradually engages during pedal travel.
I’ve looked at the telemetry on my wheel and even kicking the clutch is not as fast as it is on a controller. Clutch upgrades do seem make the clutch react faster to the movement of the clutch pedal with a wheel.
Well, I’m not using manual clutch. I did try it but can’t see a real benefit especially when you offset the loss in fun (for me) and irritating affect on sound (again just my taste).
How do you [/i ]work out exactly where to change gear? Do you look at the graph within the gear tuning page or just by observing a drop in accelerate by using the speedo?
Both. Clutch on a wheel is an on off as well. There is no slipping the clutch etc similar to things you can do irl. This is why most guys will set the clutch deadzones to 0-1 or something very similar. This gives them the least clutch travel and essentially turns the clutch pedal into a button. In other sims i do something similar in game and i calibrate the clutch to just be a very short travel whereas forza is one of the only games where you cant calibrate your wheel/pedals in game (another major oversight for wheel users).
There is a scientific way and then a by feel way. By feel most people end up shifting as close to rev limiter as possible and for the majority this will work as the shift typically shifts you down to just below redline keeping you mostly within the powerband. The scientific way which is probably the correct way to do it is to go into telemetry and watch the rpm and also the hp and torque. The hp and torque should climb through the gear until it starts to decrease. You want to shift shortly after it is decreasing. More specifically you want to shift so that your hp/torque on the downside of the torque curve is about the same numbers before and after shift. I.E. at 6500 RPM in 3rd gear on the low side the car is at 220hp and 180tq, when you shift this should be on the incline as close to 220/180 again. This will make for the smoothest shifts so they tyres dont break loose on you because there is a large jump in torque/power between the gears. Also this will keep the car from bogging as the power numbers remain roughly the same. So when you shift if your ate 6500 220 180 on the down side it may drop you to 4600 225 176. This would be very close.
Some build configurations dont allow this. A very popular build from fm6 that didnt allow this was the 5.7L v8 with a centrifugal supercharger. That motor had a fairly steady increasing dyno and the supercharger built its power more the higher it revved. So with this setup shifting closest to the rev limiter was most beneficial. This would not allow you to keep your power and torque numbers similar there was always a big drop but the motor had enough torque to get away with it and dropping to the lower hp/tq numbers was usually better for traction anyways.
Another build with an odd example that doing it by feel doesnt work was the 1.8 motor swap. This motor built all of its power in low rpms. You could still use the torque curve to shift but if you watch those numbers vs just doing it by feel and guessing near readline you are much slower. This motor would build all of its power in the 4500-5000 range quite a bit below redline of i think 6500 (going from memory). The car had tons of power and torque if you shifted using the “scientific” method, but was down literally like 100hp if you just shifted around redline.
Lastly, Lap times. They have always been the be all end all indicator. If its slower dont do it. Just like when running with a non adjustable gearing, some tracks its just faster to run off the red limiter for a few hundred meters on the straight than it is to shift and then shift down again. This may not work in an endurance but in forzas super sprint races its def a viable option.