Do you wish for the old days of Forza 4 when you went to drift into a corner and be able to transfer without the front end of your car twitching out and flying into the guardrail well your wish has been granted with this amazing new setup. It can be used for tandem or points but mainly tried to make it suit the needs of the tandemers so hope you enjoy.
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7 FD
Horsepower: 589
Torque: 422
Weight: 2,429
Front: 51%
Displacement: 1.3 L
UPGRADES
Engine and Power:
Race Intake
Race Fuel System
Race Ignition
Race Exhaust
Race Rotors and Compression
Race Twin Turbo
Race Intercooler
Race Oil and Cooling
Race Flywheel
Platforming and Handling:
Race Brakes
Race Spring and Dampers
Race Front Sway Bar
Race Rear Sway Bar
Racing Reinforcement and Roll Cage
Race Weight Reduction
Tires and Wheels:
Compound (Whatever your use to using really doesn’t matter just not Race Tires)
Front Tire Width: 225/45R17
Rear Tire Width: 275/35R17
Wheels: Whatever
Front Wheel Size: 17’
Rear Wheel Size: 17’
Aero and Appearance:
Whatever you think looks cool.
Conversions: None
TUNE SETTINGS
Tire Pressure
Front: 46.0
Rear: 28.0
Gearing
Final Drive: 4.30
1st: 2.89
2nd: 1.99
3rd: 1.49
4th: 1.16
5th: 0.94
6th: 0.78
Alignment
Camber
Front: -0.5
Rear: -3.0
Toe
Front: 0.0
Rear: -0.2
Front Caster
Angle: 7.0
Anti-Roll Bars
Front: 23.02
Rear: 16.01
Springs
Front: 422.0
Rear: 364.3
Ride Height
Front: 5.9
Rear: 6.1
Damping
Rebound Stiffness
Front: 8.0
Rear: 7.5
Bump Stiffness
Front: 3.2
Rear: 2.6
Aero
If you are able to change downforce put it all the way to the left front and rear.
There are some things in your build that I have been considering trying. Such as the 100% - 0% Diff setting.
Bump is a bit lower than I usually go. I tend to use 3.8 front and 3.3 rear, i’ll have to see how it feels even lower.
Springs look quite soft as well, over the past few weeks I have been inching mine towards the softer side as well.
Aside from that, the only other thing I see that is different from the way I tune is the gap between front and rear anti-roll bars, I usually keep them a bit closer to being even, with the rear a slight bit softer than the front.
All in all, that looks like a bad ass build. I’ll have to give that a shot when I get home and see if it helps work out some of the twitchiness left in my builds.
As a matter of fact, if you wouldn’t mind, can I ask you to take my Hyundai Genesis for a ride and let me know what you think? I would love to hear your input on the tune. It is uploaded and ready when you are.
The tune setup isn’t too different than what you have posted here.
Tried out your hyundai Genesis tune it seemed to handle alright, but if i was you i would drop your front camber a little bit and up your rear a few degrees i have went as low as -.2 degrees on the front on some of my cars and they still handle great and with the rear you can literally make it as high as you want and it won’t affect it to much. It does look a little strange going around with -5.0 on the rear and -0.4 on the front though.
You must be from heaven my friend because this tune was the answer to all my prayers. I had just started to figure out drifting in forza 4 and in return enjoying it then I bought 5 and I just could do it and I had no idea what I was doing wrong. Thanks so much.
Try it and you will find out my friend. That camber makes all the difference I am now able to put up the same scores on tracks with negative camber as I was getting using positive.
Front and Rear camber is backwards to what a normal real life drift car uses. But if its works and helps you drift better that’s great for you. Each to their own
The front and rear cambers seem a little flipped to me that much in the rear also causes the car to be slower but then again I tandem and if this works good on points then go for it. Personally I’ll run -2 front -.5 rear with a 7 caster and -.2 rear toe, as for everything else it’s looks really solid, good tune
