Normally I’m a member of the Forzatography community but I’ve recently fallen out of love with my miserable luck in the Weekly Photo Comps. I’ve currently switched my attention to building and tuning cars to use online. One problem - I’m hopeless.
My bug-bear in particular is the Nissan Fairlady Z (350Z). I’ve manually upgraded it to A700, but the thing won’t stop drifting! Any time I go anywhere near the throttle in turns the wheels light up and I end up fighting for control or in the grass. I’m happy with the build - it seems competitive enough for online multiplayer, but I can’t control it. I’ve tried reading tuning guides and watching tutorials, but I can’t decipher them. Is there anybody who can give me some suggestions? Or try and explain the tuning system one more time? Any information I can get is much appreciated.
EDIT: I prefer racing in B-Class since I’m a sub-par driver, but I can’t find a good build and tune to keep me in the class, as well as controlable and competitive. Can anyone give me some advice? I’d prefer not to swap the stock engine or change the drivetrain.
Cheers,
Ace
We can also share some tunes for this car in both B & A to see if they fit your driving style. Then, we can tweak your build/tune to get it in the space. I personally always review the build, in addition to the tune. So, please post both if you’d like some fdbk.
Thanks for the responses everyone. Currently I have the car sitting at A700 and completely untuned. Here’s the list of upgrades on it:
Conversion
Centrifugal supercharger
Aero and Appearance
Race front bumper
Race rear wing
Tires and Rims
Race tire compound
Upgraded front tire width (255/45R17)
Upgraded rear tire width (275/45R17)
HRE P47sc rims (stock sizing)
Drivertrain
Sport transmission
Race differential
Platform and Handling
Race brakes
Race springs and dampers
Race front anti-roll bars
Race rear anti-roll bars
Sport chassis reinforcement/roll cage
Race weight reduction
Engine
Race intake
Street fuel system
Race exhaust
Sport valves
Race pistons/compression
Race centrifugal supercharger
I haven’t tuned the car at all, largely because I don’t understand what I’m doing. It suffers from crazy oversteer the second you go anywhere near the throttle. I know I’m a bit ham-fisted on the gas, but it spends more time going sideways in the dirt than on the track. If possible I’d love to learn how to tune out the oversteer, shorten the gear ratios and stiffen the car a bit, but I have no idea what I’m doing in the tuning.
Ok budd will tune it for you and we will see if it works for you, the only thing is that ill do it until tomorrow, but im sure the guys here will give you some to try as well.
I would say that by far the most important piece of tuning to stop wheelspin in powerful RWD cars is the rear diff acceleration setting. Whack it up to 70/75% and feel the difference. Then take it back down again and see how much more wheelspin you get.
Softening the rear spring rate and ARB will help but they mainly govern transitional oversteer (ie. The back end steps out when going around a corner) and not so much power oversteer. Softening the rear spring and rear bump will help with this a bit basically because this means a lot more of the cars weight will bear down on the back wheels and quicker when you put your foot down increasing grip.
However IMHO this is not half as noticeable as increasing the rear diff
I have found that, as far as handling builds go, a centrifugal supercharger has more affect on front weight than in previous Forzas; Try building it without the SC, Ill bet it makes the front end turn in more and allow the rear end to find more grip. Ive had that issue in S class Vipers, B class Miatas, and A class RX7s
Edit: I edit all my posts. Weird. Anywho, this isnt a “fix” to your problem but a largely handy push in a direction that could fix it. Also, this does not imply the issue is with the front end of the car; It merely states a method of encouraging the weight to be more friendly to the rear. Youll still need to adjust the rear end